hj wrote:
Took this just this morning with my Canon SX50. I did crop afterwards to get a larger image. ISO 80, 215mm, f/6.5 and shutter 1/250. I've learned through experience that your ISO will vary greatly depending on what phase the moon is in. Full moon would of course require a much lower ISO as in this case.
That's pretty impressive for only 215mm. I find that hard to believe with that much detail and crop. How many mp is your camera?
47greyfox
Loc: on the edge of the Colorado front range
Forgive me if I missed a detail on a couple posts, but in addition to trying the recommended settings, I also use a remote shutter actuator and/or shutter delay of 2 seconds regardless of handheld or tripod mounted.
The Canon SX50 is a bridge camera with 50X zoom and 12.1 megapixel sensor. As I mentioned, I did a post process crop. The snap was hand held. See attached for pic data.
DWHart24 wrote:
That's pretty impressive for only 215mm. I find that hard to believe with that much detail and crop. How many mp is your camera?
I really appreciate all the advice but wow, the answers are all over the place. I think the answer about the phase of moon may be best because when I did get craters it was only a quarter moon. Thanks everyone for your help.
Do you have a clear sky or a hazy sky?
If you have a filter on the lens take it off and try again with suggested settings.
Its hard to see creators on a full moon because the sun is straight on. Try taking your shots on a crescent moon or half moon. Otherwise they get washed out by too much light
Didn't see you mention using a remote shutter release or timer, but if you're trying to take these with your finger to release the shutter manually, it's gonna be pretty tough.
Used a 150-600 mm Sigma for this one.
Instagram filters made the dark area a little blotchy, but you can clearly see the craters:-)
I do use a remote shutter release. Thanks Bryan
You can get darn good shots with a 270, but have to crop. Not as good a a 600, of course, but darn good. Don't know about creators on the moon bet it is true that you can get better craters due to better shadows with a partial moon. A little twilight some times produces a good shot as well. Use single point focus and metering. I have gotten decent shots hand held at 1/325 @F8 with a 270 on a D3200. A sun lighted moon surface is comparable to a beach on a sunny day.
the moon get full sun light , so expose for this like on earth , also dont waste your time taking full moon shots , the best are half or less , same when viewing with a telescope .with half moon or less , you will see a pic with contrast , shadows of the peaks and craters .i dont use mirror up or a remote , hold the camera firmly on the tripod .the longer the lens the better .
Taking a picture of the moon by itself is boring. Simply boring. Getting a picture of the moon with a nice foreground is NOT boring. But the foreground is what makes the picture, not the moon all by itself.
My advise is the simply make changes to your settings and try different settings to see what the outcome is. This will help you understand your camera better than just getting some settings from another photographer.
Yodagirl
Loc: All Over-Fulltime RV (Originally from NH)
wwright wrote:
The moon moves pretty quickly, making long exposures difficult. It is also reflected sunlight, so exposures are more in line with sunny day settings. I have has the most success using remote control software, control my Nikon, a long USB cable (so I can sit inside) and my laptop. I can review each shot on the larger screen and make adjustments as needed. With regard to night photography, my white whale is meteors. I get lots of star trails, but getting lucky enough to have a meteor to cross the path has been a challenge. :-)
The moon moves pretty quickly, making long exposur... (
show quote)
That sounds like trying to catch a lightening flash times 50! Good luck-I hope you get one!
One more note: Shutter Speed should be above or at least at 1/160 sec as the moon is always moving fast. DaveC1 gave the best advice although the other night auto ISO switched ISO to 51000
which yielded too much noise and cut down on detail. 1/160 sec at f/ 5.6, ISO 100 Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.