bbradford Loc: Wake Forest NC

Being new with full manual I have read everything I can. I understand the triangle but know one ever mentions where there start with setting. Is it kind of a guess at 1st shot based on conditions? Appreciate any feedback.

srt101fan

Shutter speed based on subject motion and/or ability to hold camera steady (changes with lens focal length); aperture based on desired depth of field (or light level); ISO as low as possible.

bbradford Loc: Wake Forest NC

Thanks for the help. Bryan

orrie smith Loc: Kansas

It all depends on what you are shooting and the effects you want in your photo. If you are shooting action, you want to start with your shutter speed, then blend in the aperture that will bring in focus the areas you want clear, then finish off with ISO. If it is stills or portraits, start with aperture for the bokeh you desire then bring in the shutter speed and ISO. The shutter speed will be determined by whether you are using a tripod or not. With a tripod in stills you may slow down your shutter speeds control a lower ISO setting. Good luck with your venture.

bbradford Loc: Wake Forest NC

Great answer, thanks so much for your time and knowledge. Thanks Bryan

BebuLamar

First you should determine the exposure so how do you go about that? Do you use the built in meter? If so which metering mode? You need to do that first before deciding which shutter speed, aperture or ISO.

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

Okay, while the answers thus far have been technically accurate, I don't know if they are that helpful insofar as they don't mention any particulars. So if I may, let me offer these thoughts:

If the subject is moving or you don't use a tripod, you will likely want to prevent motion blur and as such use a fast enough shutter speed to "freeze" that motion. The general rule of thumb for this is nased on the 35MM film days - the slowest shutter speed you should use is 1/focal length. So, with a 50MM lens, 1/50th second at minimum. With a 200MM lens, 1/200th second, and so forth. HOWEVER, that needs to be augmented when using a so-called crop frame camera - you need to multiply by the crop factor. So with a Nikon DX camera (crop factor 1.5), the slowest shutter speed you should use handheld on that 200MM lens is 1/300th second. For a micro 4/3 camera (crop factor of 2) it would be 1/400th second.

Once that decision has been made (including purposefully using a speed that is "too slow" because you want to emphasize motion) the ISO and aperture become the other points of compromise. Want a shallow depth of field, to make the background blur out and not be a distraction? Use a wider aperture (smaller f number). When that is decided, and given the amount of light on the scene, the ISO just pretty much sorts itself out.

Or, do you want to purposefully introduce a lot of noise in order to achieve some artistic vision? Crack up the ISO, and to compensate use a faster shutter speed or smaller aperture (or combination of both).

The point is, for most instances (again, unless you're shooting a bowl of fruit using a tripod for support) the shutter speed is the primary thing to determine. That rule of thumb I mention above is a place to start; with practice you will likely be able to "cheat" with a slower speed than calculated, it's really a matter of practice.

I hope that helps.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

Except when it isn't. My passion is for Landscape photography. For me, the "starting point" is always to determine how much of the image I want to be in sharp focus. So I always set my f/stop first.

anotherview Loc: California

Generally agree with this approach. The subject and the conditions along with the intention of the photographer determine which settings to use for best results. Practice will clarify these matters.

mgoldfield

I can understand your frustration; I also understand everyone's desire to offer a quick answer to your question, but there is NO quick answer.

My response is to suggest you read a good book on the subject of exposure, and my recommendation is Bryan Peterson's superb book, a classic!

https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Fourth-Photographs-Camera/dp/1607748509

I wish you good luck, and let us know how you make out.

Michael Goldfield

tomad Loc: North Carolina

When using manual mode I find that the histogram helps. Learn to read the histogram and set the viewfinder/screen to display it before taking a photo. My Sony's will display a small histogram in the lower right corner.

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

Evidently you missed my mention of "unless you are using a tripod", which i presume you do in landscape photography, allowing you the luxury of selecting your desired aperture without worrying that the shutter speed will be too slow. But for someone just starting out and trying to get an initial sense of things, this is not germane, which is why I attempted to give him useful information and not show off how much I know.

Silverman Loc: Michigan

I learned a simple suggestion for your manual settings from a Pro Photographer on U-Tube, it is;... The "I Am Shooting" method.

1. Set ISO
2. Set Aperture
3. Set Shutter Speed

In that exact order.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

I hand-hold a lot. Still, depth-of-focus is my major concern. Luckily, DSLRs yield crisp-and-snappy images at higher ISOs than slide films did. If the SS drops too low, if there is no wall/fence/tree stump/etc. to steady my camera on, then I ramp-up the ISO a bit. Of course, in my advancing years, I have bought a few lenses with VR. That helps. But an out-of-focus critical element in the composition, well no PP software can fix that.

BebuLamar

I don't know if the OP would take my advice but the first thing to learn in exposure is to determine the exposure and not which aperture, shutter speed or ISO to use. That's the second step after you have determined the exposure level needed for the scene brightness.