Cwilson341 Loc: Central Florida

I use matrix metering most of the time. If I have any concern about blowing highlights I switch to Highlight Metering which is basically a form of matrix metering with special attention to the highlights. I use spot or center only under specific conditions where it is called for.

Steve Perry Loc: Sylvania, Ohio

Matrix for me almost all fo the time, followed by highlight and sometimes spot. There's no one right answer and I can get proper exposures in any mode. I choose the metering pattern based on how well it matches the scene - and in turn is the least amount of hassle for me :)

Strodav Loc: Houston, Tx

There are quite a few YouTube tutorials, for example by the revered Tony Northrup, on how to use which method when. I do use all 3. Spot or center weighted are very helpful for very bright or very dark backgrounds especially with portraits or wildlife / birding. For example, taking the shot of a darker colored bird in flight against a bright blue sky. I use matrix for most everything else including landscapes. But I can't emphasize enough to take a test shot, pull up the view with the histogram. You want the dark stuff at the left of the histogram without completely falling off and the light stuff at the right side of the histogram without falling off. To show how old I am, I usually start out with a very old Gossen analog Luna-Pro and a good old Kodak 18% gray card to set up my initial f-stop and shutter speed for the test shot.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

Really serious work I use an incident reading on a hand-held lightmeter, whether outdoors, or studio.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

Whatever gets the job done. I found on my E-M5 and now on my E-M1 mrII that Olympus's algorithms seem to do a really terrific job on matrix. But when the conditions call for it, I will move it to spot, off center spot, large spot, large off center spot, or centerweighted. Usually the matrix combined with exposure compensation is enough to get the job done.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Spot. I measure the highlight that I want detail in, then add 1 2/3 exposure to it. This ensures that the image will be exposed as much as possible without blowing the highlights. Using the spot meter requires an understanding of the zone system. Using a spot meter, either in the camera or hand held, pointing it at a subject and using the reading without alteration will result in widely variable results. The meter doesn't have the intelligence to discriminate between a crow and a great white egret shot in the same light. It will give you very different readings. Yet, the reading, taken in the same light needs to be the same.

Whatever method you use, it's important to understand what you are doing, and how your equipment works.

Each manufacturer has their own "lingo" so you just have to say to yourself that Matrix (Nikon) is the same as Evaluative (Canon) - there are usually 4 - average, evaluative/matrix, center weighted and spot. Each of these can have variants as well. Either way, the information should be helpful.

You can also print out an EV (exposure value) guide that gives you exposure setting guidelines for various lighting conditions.

In the field the one method I use least is incident. There are various scenarios that make it impossible to measure - a stage performance, a baseball/football game, a bird out in the open when you are under tree cover. In my studio, the incident meter/flash meter is the most accurate way to go - since I have total control over my lighting.

I've been using a spot meter (Minolta and Pentax) since the 70s and it has worked out for me. I can still get great results using other methods, but this is the one I am most comfortable with, and it rarely fails me.

Jerrin1 Loc: Wolverhampton, England

I photograph wildlife almost exclusively and use spot metering. Whilst I shoot on manual I set ISO to auto. I also tend to shoot at -0.3 EVF to give darker sky and reduce the chances of blowing out highlights. Works a treat with my Sony cameras. Tony Northrup seems to recommend matrix (or equivalent) but I prefer spot as many of my subjects are either against light or dark backgrounds.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

I'm sure it depends on the subject. For me, landscapes are and have always been my passion. What I use depends on the lighting. The dicier the lighting, the more control I want. So I start with Matrix and progress through Center-weighted and Spot.

GED Loc: North central Pa

waegwan Loc: Mae Won Li

This is an interesting answer if you are using a digital. Does your digital give you the option to turn off metering all together? I too use a hand held meter with my DSLR from time to time but my DSLR has to be set to one of the three modes. I don't have an option to not use one of them. I use spot as default.

waegwan Loc: Mae Won Li

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

I use center weighted metering as a default. My fn button is used for quick matrix metering if necessary. I do mostly birds in flight also using aperture priority, GROUP AUTO FOCUS with the back button used for single spot focusing if the bird is in the bush. I shoot f6.3 on the Nikon 200-500 with the D500 with vertical grip attached. The Green Heron below was captured at first light with the bird flying at a 45 degree angle to the sun using center weighting metering.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

I use spot metering.with either a Sekonic L758DR or an SEI Photometer. As a secondary, I use in camera spot. My Nikon F is center weighted.
--Bob

mikemercury

On my Pentax K3, I generally use spot with AFS (or AFC for moving objects) and the TAV setting (set shutter speed and aperture, let the ISO float). Use back button focus to spot focus on most important part, then let go; exposure button focus turned off.

Bultaco Loc: Aiken, SC

When shooting wildlife I have the Af set on spot and the joy stick at group.