Nikon d 3200 disappointing
Aug 16, 2018 09:52:59 #
olemikey
Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida
I have several Nikon cameras - D3200, D90, D80 and P&S L840, P530 and an L830. All of these perform very well for their intended application. (I also have a bunch of Sony DSLR's). If you only have the D3200 and one lens, check the glass for cleanliness (smudges, grease, oils, dirt, dust, etc.) and look thru the lens with aperture wide open with a small flashlight and make sure that it is good all the way through, check for all functionality. Do the same looking at the sensor, does it look clean and clear? Then, attach to camera and take several pics of a plain white background on autofocus and look at the result on a large screen/monitor - what do you see? Are there artifacts? Could it need cleaning.
If you really want help from this forum, you will need to post some pics - otherwise all anyone can do is guess at your issues. Or visit the camera shop again. Moving on -
Then, if still undetermined, mount on a tripod and use the delay timer (to cancel any shake/vibration) and take some pics of an item that you can directly compare the picture to - is it sharp, is it clear, does it look like the item? If not, try to determine where the focus point is, and what is the fault? Look at the pics on a good quality monitor, enlarged beyond the size of the little screen on the camera.
The D3200 also has a "sharpening feature" in the menu system, this might help. Look in the manual.
Post some pictures like tdozier3 did.
If you really want help from this forum, you will need to post some pics - otherwise all anyone can do is guess at your issues. Or visit the camera shop again. Moving on -
Then, if still undetermined, mount on a tripod and use the delay timer (to cancel any shake/vibration) and take some pics of an item that you can directly compare the picture to - is it sharp, is it clear, does it look like the item? If not, try to determine where the focus point is, and what is the fault? Look at the pics on a good quality monitor, enlarged beyond the size of the little screen on the camera.
The D3200 also has a "sharpening feature" in the menu system, this might help. Look in the manual.
Post some pictures like tdozier3 did.
Aug 16, 2018 09:56:07 #
If the OP were happy with what he got from the 35mm SLR then there shouldn't be any problem of getting equivalent results with the D3200. There is no more skill on the part of the OP or quality on the part of the camera to get similar results.
Aug 16, 2018 11:03:01 #
BebuLamar wrote:
Still I don't think the problem is with the camera. Although you use tripod but birds and flowers don't stay still so you could have motion blur by using slow shutter speeds.
Aug 16, 2018 11:19:15 #
I have to totally agree with you. Nikon 3300 is the low end of the products. If you still want to keep going with them then get the D500 or 850 for what you want to do.
I gave up on Nikon a few years ago & went with Fuji XT2. I used to shoot raw only, but I just love the jpegs.
Fuji keeps up with firmware updates, asks its customers what they want/need. And they have great glass.
Nikon get you to buy a new camera to upgrade any new features. Fuji doesn’t they upgrade the firmware instead.
Not to bash Nikon but they haven’t asked a customer in years what their needs are.
I haven’t had an opportunity to see their new mirrorless but I doubt they will be any better.
You were right about the camera sales agent. He got you good you just traded one point & shoot for another.
The prices should drop soon on the XT2 as the XT3 will be coming out.
Good luck with your search.
I gave up on Nikon a few years ago & went with Fuji XT2. I used to shoot raw only, but I just love the jpegs.
Fuji keeps up with firmware updates, asks its customers what they want/need. And they have great glass.
Nikon get you to buy a new camera to upgrade any new features. Fuji doesn’t they upgrade the firmware instead.
Not to bash Nikon but they haven’t asked a customer in years what their needs are.
I haven’t had an opportunity to see their new mirrorless but I doubt they will be any better.
You were right about the camera sales agent. He got you good you just traded one point & shoot for another.
The prices should drop soon on the XT2 as the XT3 will be coming out.
Good luck with your search.
Aug 16, 2018 11:20:54 #
I wonder how many different lenses have been tested to make this assessment.
Aug 16, 2018 11:30:37 #
I can tell you what I suspect, but without seeing some of your images it's hard to pinpoint the problem. If you post an image and check the (store original) box, we will be able to see the EXIF or metadata of the image which gives us such information as the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. For all we know, you could have all those setting wrong.
I'll tell you what it could be in as few words as possible. 1. Shooting jpg.... If you shoot jpg and you have the picture style set to something that oversaturates the colors, your flower will not have good detail. In other words, if the flower is red, and reds are being over saturated, the detail in the red flower will not be good at all. Trust me on this. Solution - shoot raw and learn to process your images. If you are in control of the red saturation and the sharpness instead of letting the camera decide, then you will have better or perfect results. 2. The lens you are using could be an entry level lens. Lenses matter. You don't say which lens you have. The EXIF would also tell us this information. 3. Aperture is too open. Not enough DOF (depth of field). When I take pictures of flowers, I do a couple of things, I stop down, use a tripod and use a diffuser or use artificial light. If I forgot to bring the diffuser or strobe, I stop down, then I shot the flower using about 2/3-1 stop underexposed settings in camera for better color saturation. 4. Camera movement because shutter too slow. Too close to subject for lens to focus. Too many focus points and therefore the camera chooses the part to focus on instead of you by using 1 focus point.
As you can see, there's a lot to getting a sharp image with a DSLR. Every time you buy a new lens or camera body, it takes at least 2 weeks of everyday use to learn and adapt to the new hardware.
I'll tell you what it could be in as few words as possible. 1. Shooting jpg.... If you shoot jpg and you have the picture style set to something that oversaturates the colors, your flower will not have good detail. In other words, if the flower is red, and reds are being over saturated, the detail in the red flower will not be good at all. Trust me on this. Solution - shoot raw and learn to process your images. If you are in control of the red saturation and the sharpness instead of letting the camera decide, then you will have better or perfect results. 2. The lens you are using could be an entry level lens. Lenses matter. You don't say which lens you have. The EXIF would also tell us this information. 3. Aperture is too open. Not enough DOF (depth of field). When I take pictures of flowers, I do a couple of things, I stop down, use a tripod and use a diffuser or use artificial light. If I forgot to bring the diffuser or strobe, I stop down, then I shot the flower using about 2/3-1 stop underexposed settings in camera for better color saturation. 4. Camera movement because shutter too slow. Too close to subject for lens to focus. Too many focus points and therefore the camera chooses the part to focus on instead of you by using 1 focus point.
As you can see, there's a lot to getting a sharp image with a DSLR. Every time you buy a new lens or camera body, it takes at least 2 weeks of everyday use to learn and adapt to the new hardware.
jguessrn wrote:
I have taken 35 millimeter photographs since 1968 ... (show quote)
Aug 16, 2018 12:02:25 #
Aug 16, 2018 12:52:13 #
kpmac wrote:
I'm willing to bet your images would be the same with any camera. Post some photos with exif and let us try to help.
I intend to agree, the d 3200 in the right hands delivers stunning results, and he seemed to have the same problems with the Rebel as well!
Aug 16, 2018 12:57:53 #
speters wrote:
I intend to agree, the d 3200 in the right hands delivers stunning results, and he seemed to have the same problems with the Rebel as well!
He didn't say if he had problem with the film camera.
Aug 16, 2018 13:08:39 #
jguessrn wrote:
I have taken 35 millimeter photographs since 1968 ... (show quote)
I had a D3200 and thought it was not sharp enough and replaced it with a D3300 which was much better.
Aug 16, 2018 13:43:42 #
jguessrn wrote:
I have taken 35 millimeter photographs since 1968 ... (show quote)
Chances are it is not the camera, but how you are using it. My wife has a D3300, two lens kit, and while the camera itself is low end, the images it makes are excellent when it is used correctly.
Without seeing some of your digital images and reading the EXIF tables attached to them, it is difficult to say what might be wrong. But I'll guess that if you're using "fairly small f/stops", you're seeing the phenomenon known as "diffraction limitation of sharpness." This is common when cameras with small sensor sites are used with lenses stopped down too far. How far is too far? Well, for a 24MP camera like the D3200, diffraction starts to become noticeable around f/6.3. By f/22, the effect is pretty severe, "foggy," and "soft," much as you described above. Slow shutter speeds could be a problem as well, if there is any subject movement.
If you have been photographing at f/16 or f/22, humor me and do an experiment. Put a double page spread from a newspaper on the wall. Set the camera on a tripod, and place it where you just fill the frame with the newspaper at a medium zoom focal length. Set the camera on Aperture Priority and let shutter speed and ISO "float". Focus manually. Make an exposure at every f/stop on the lens. Then examine the results at 100% (one FILE pixel is displayed with one SCREEN pixel) in an editor.
Then, go watch this 51 minute D3200/D3300 tutorial video by Tony Northrup on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmWBW8aZSS0
The fact is, almost ALL digital cameras in that class or better can make pretty phenomenal images when used correctly.
Aug 16, 2018 14:30:18 #
1moose
Loc: british columbia, canada
I have the d3300 and use old nikon lenses with extension tubes for macro. I too was disappointed with live view for focusing then i bought a 1.6x magnifier for the eyepiece, got rid of all the tripod stuff just focus by moving my body in and out and was surprised by the results got! also use the flash with a diffuser to freeze the action try that!
Aug 16, 2018 14:33:59 #
olemikey
Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida
burkphoto wrote:
Chances are it is not the camera, but how you are ... (show quote)
I have noticed this effect with my 3200 and certain lens combos, and tend to remain in the sweet spot of each of my lens once I become used to where it is, fairly open @ F/4 to F/11 range seems to be it on a lot of them. Hopefully the OP will listen to your advice and give his gear another chance, we shall see next post. I wonder too, if he has VR on, or if it is working?
Aug 16, 2018 16:34:23 #
Aug 16, 2018 19:17:57 #
jguessrn wrote:
I have taken 35 millimeter photographs since 1968 ... (show quote)
Operator error. You replaced one entry level camera with another. Find a good book on digital photography and read it before getting another camera.
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.