kaitoo212 Loc: From CA living in NYC

Do I charge my rate by the hour, by the day or by the.piece? This may be coming up for me in the Spring. I appreciate any advice.
Daniel

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

What ever works for you and the client
.

kaitoo212 Loc: From CA living in NYC

Thank you, PixelStan77

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

The previous answer sounds a bit snarky... but is actually true.

It really depends upon the work... the number of items and how much time you'll need to spend on each setup. I shot 200 small products for a lady's website, but it was such a simple setup that the work was fast and the images were only going to be used in small resolution. So I shot everything against a plain white seamless and simply swapped out the items being photographed. On some items that were a little larger or smaller than average, I had to move a little closer or farther away, but most were shot without even having to move my camera and tripod. I used a tilt shift lens so my reflection wouldn't show up in anything and the perspective would look natural. And I used a polarizing filter to control reflections since many items were wrapped in transparent plastic, which we wanted to show but still wanted the items inside the packaging to show clearly. Since the images were going to be used at internet sizes and resolution, I shot JPEGs (but also saved RAWs, just in case editing was needed). I was able to do a tabletop studio set up using only available window light (north light) and set a Custom White Balance that was consistent throughout. I used a couple small reflectors and flags with some items. It only took a couple minutes per item, so I finished the job in less than a half day, including post-processing and burning a disk with the images. I charged her for a half day.

I've had other jobs, such as real estate interiors, that took a half day to set up for just a half dozen images and needed as much as an hour or more post-processing for some of the images (mixed light from windows, for example). Ended up charging a full day for a couple dozen images.

I suspect jewelry will be much like my first example, especially if you'll be shooting it inside a tent and don't need to change backgrounds, etc. for each item.

But it's hard to say. So talk to the client for more detail... ask their budget for the work, how the images will be used, how many items you'll be shooting and the size(s) of the items, if you'll be able to shoot everything at once or if it will be a series of shoots over time, etc.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

The way a professional determines pricing is based on a business and marketing plan. This details your costs for overhead and materials (media, ink, paper, etc), the market research that indicates a range of pricing in your area for similar work, and let's you determine if you can be profitable.

Absent a business plan and a marketing plan. Charge whatever you can get. Talk to your client and see what makes sense. If there is only a small budget and you will only get $5/piece or $60/hr, I'd pass on it. Not worth the time and effort. But your situation may be different.

d3200prime

Amateur or pro you need to know your competition and what they charge then charge accordingly. Make sure you know what your client expects so there are no surprises. You might want to consider shooting some shots of other jewelry with different backgrounds and setups and present your client with a portfolio of choices. Of course, this doesn't apply if the client has specific shots already in mind but really a portfolio is a must. Good luck.

Ron Dial Loc: Cuenca, Ecuador

It depends. jewelry you see in magazines or high end catalogs is usually composited from several shots for each piece. Watches for example have one shot for the face, one for the bazel, one for the hands, one for the stem and one for the band, all with subtle changes in the lighting used and the final is composited in Photoshop. Reflections are the demon of jewelry shooting. Shooters who do a lot of jewelry usually have a plastic translucent dome they place over the piece and shoot through a lens hole in the dome. You can replicate this with tissue paper and wire hangers and have the light come through the tissue. The extend to which you want to have a magazine quality result will dictate the time and hence the amount you charge. If you are just going to do snapshots, you wouldn't charge much.

Ron Dial Loc: Cuenca, Ecuador

One last thought, you can shoot on black velvet for one effect, and black mylar or black plexiglas, highly polished, for a "floating" effect.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I wouldn't do it, because the owners may be offended by you destroying them! No, seriously, I would do it by the piece, because each probably requires a different set-up, as well as different lighting set-up etc.. That's the most time spent anyway (the actual shooting does not take no time at all)! Any post processing needs to be accounted for too!

kaitoo212 Loc: From CA living in NYC

Ok thanks, I appreciate your response!
kaitoo/daniel

kaitoo212 Loc: From CA living in NYC

I really appreciate your insight! This is for a start up here in NYC on Spring 2019 and I certainly don't want to short change myself! Do you or have you shot anything by the piece before?
Thank you,
kaitoo/daniel

kaitoo212 Loc: From CA living in NYC

Cool, I have used black velvet before but han't really thought of the other two!
So appreciate your input!
Thank you,
kaitoo/daniel

kaitoo212 Loc: From CA living in NYC

Ok thanks for your reply!
k a i t o o/Daniel

kaitoo212 Loc: From CA living in NYC

Thank you for the suggestions the black mylar is a new one!
k a i t o o /Daniel

kaitoo212 Loc: From CA living in NYC

Hey Ron,

Sounds like you've done this before! Thank you for the advise especially about the tissue!
I really appreciate it!
k a i t o o/Daniel