boroboy51 Loc: middle earth

I'm no expert but my experiments with long ex have been done in the late evening with a cpl. I have had some pleasing results.

DaveJS Loc: Philadelphia, PA area

I bought a 10 stop filter a few weeks ago and was only yesterday able to start using it. I was just playing around with some shots but I love it. I'm dying to go in to the city (Philadelphia) and take shots. I had people walking all over the frame and none of them showed up in the pic. Witht he filter came a little cheat sheet, it said if your normal exposure was X then with the filter it would now be Y.

nikonshooter Loc: Spartanburg, South Carolina

If you happen to shoot Nikon and for those who do, you can use the "Multiple Exposure" option. Just choose in your menu. This will allow you to stack, in camera multiple exposures, I use 10. If the scene is a waterfall, the only thing that is usually moving is the water, so it will process silky smooth. These shots are not bracketed....same exposure taken multiple times. Trash it if it is windy and you might as well trash the ND as well, when your waterfall is surrounded by trees and stuff.

Personally, I don't like the look a ND filter gives to a scene but after early morning until late afternoon you need it unless your camera is Nikon and you use the ME option. Also, when I can, I want to use the sweet spot for a lens (best F stop for a particular lens.......unfortunately you have to stop down to a point you will lose this advantage - unless your camera has the ME option. Huge advantage!!!

So, Nikon shooters, set your lens to it's best F/Stop for the scene and your lens, elect the Multiple exposure option, set to 10 shots, fire away and walla! All done with no ND filter.

phil9945 Loc: British Columbia, Canada

I use a free app called Long Time on my iPhone to determine exposure ... it works very well

Phil

nikonshooter Loc: Spartanburg, South Carolina

Great app! Thanks for sharing

IanC Loc: Northumberland UK

Took this one in bright sunlight. F11, 1.5seconds ISO100.
With an ND4 & ND16 filter attached.

I STOP TO SHOOT Loc: By the No. CA Sea

Jerry 41: Have you taken pict. with these filters? I love the effect of them...

paulw Loc: nottinghamshire

all you need to do is USE aTRIPOD and think about stopping as much light getting to your sensor as possible whether it be small aperture low ISO low light conditions ie dawn/dusk or a filter it takes a shortish exposure time to blur moving water just experiment they now manufacture fader ND filters that adjust the amount of light just by turning the filter ring they are great saves you buying several pieces of glass and stacking them in front of your lens less glass sharper image

chapjohn Loc: Tigard, Oregon

I agree that it is a filter and not a lens. My question is, how come none of mine say CPF but say CPL? I am asking because I want to use terms that are recognizable by all. Is this a manufacturer thing or is the more common term CPL that all would understand?

coco1964 Loc: Winsted Mn

Don't go out and spend a mint on filters and other equipment you don't need. Work in SP with a slow shutterspeed and let the camera adjust your aperture. There are members here who will help you W/O buying extra equipment. A big mistake with waterfalls is that water starts looking like milk and no longer water. Didn't catch if you have a tripod or not but that is a must. Experiment with what you have and you'll attain the results you desire.........

Alvis Loc: Chatham Ontario Canada

try using a neutral density filter nd4 is a good place to start,then shoot at different shutter speeds and aperture combos till you get something you like......here is a sample of such a thing.....this is a shot of waves 2-3 feet high crashing...

Jer Loc: Mesa, Arizona

What were you trying to photograph? What was the normal camera setting. The one you might use to take a regular picture. For example, iso 100, F/16, 1/125 sec. If we know that then we can tell you an equavalant exposure for a longer shutter speed and if you need neutral density filters.

IanC Loc: Northumberland UK

Here is a shot with no filters. Just F11 for 0.5seconds.

Very dull day thuogh

PhotoArtsLA Loc: Boynton Beach

ND filters, apart from shooting the sun, are not needed for astrophotography. Fast lenses are required, or, an equatorial clock drive for longer time exposures or for shooting through a telescope.

If you are getting underexposure with your ND filter, you must calculate your exposure. Take a few shots (bracketed) without the ND, note the exposure which looks best, then add the ND and change the shutter speed (longer and longer exposures) to compensate for the f/stop differential.

Here is a chart for reference.


This is a daylight exposure, fast shutter speed.

marty wild Loc: England

Before you run out and spend Dollar try the highest F-stop and work to a lower number. A tripod and cable release or wireless transmitter is all so required to stop camera shake if you have a light compensation button review your manual to see how it works. When thats in place, it's play time! look on my flickr page, page 9. I have had some good results