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Finding the best depth of field in Macro
Jun 28, 2018 10:23:58 #
I shoot a great deal of macro in the ocean and find that with my 100 macro the dof is so critical that I seem to be relegated to increasing it wih highter F-stops only. I average around f20 to f25 The overall imagery is good but\ with many subjects out of a flat planes, and sometimes irregular surface to boot, I long for somthing I may be overlooking. I have seen work here over the years, Old Hippy comes to mind, especially with flowers that seems to surpass my obtained DOF. Sugestions? Thank you, Bruce
Jun 28, 2018 10:33:29 #
One resource for you may be UHH's "True-Macro Forum" -
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-102-1.html
Note all the info topics on the home page, as well as the frequent contributors to that section.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-102-1.html
Note all the info topics on the home page, as well as the frequent contributors to that section.
Jun 28, 2018 10:35:29 #
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Jun 28, 2018 10:41:06 #
berasner wrote:
I shoot a great deal of macro in the ocean and fin... (show quote)
Sooo, I assume you are under water and using a housing of some kind ???
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Jun 28, 2018 11:01:40 #
For still objects, I use focus stacking, taking multiple pictures of the same object, just adjusting the focus point. This gets everything in focus in one picture or another. When you use software to combine them, it just chooses the areas of each picture that are in focus.
Jun 28, 2018 11:10:54 #
One possibility that has been discussed before is using a camera that has higher resolution and shooting further back from the subject, then cropping in post. That might sound elaborate, but it will give more DOF for the same framing. I would say that high f-stops is OK, but you're on the limit as far as diffraction is concerned. With diffraction you'll end up chasing your tail, and the softness will be in every image.
Or perhaps you already have enough resolution for your purposes even with a bit of cropping. It depends what you do with the final images. Much of the time the camera's full resolution isn't required.
Or perhaps you already have enough resolution for your purposes even with a bit of cropping. It depends what you do with the final images. Much of the time the camera's full resolution isn't required.
Jun 28, 2018 11:36:11 #
berasner wrote:
Bruce, Is your 100 Macro Autofocus? That can be the issue underwater.I shoot a great deal of macro in the ocean and fin... (show quote)
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Jun 28, 2018 11:41:05 #
We got one of those forums too:Jun 28, 2018 12:28:23 #
berasner wrote:
I shoot a great deal of macro in the ocean and fin... (show quote)
The best DOF is when the intended area is in focus, any area ahead, or behind is solely a matter of preference!
Jun 28, 2018 17:54:39 #
Yes, underwater. But even with with my housing and lens port, I have no serious issue of focus. It is an issue when some of the subject matter is at a different plane of field or distance.
Thank you for your reply
Thank you for your reply
Jun 28, 2018 18:59:08 #
berasner wrote:
Yes, underwater. But even with with my housing and lens port, I have no serious issue of focus. It is an issue when some of the subject matter is at a different plane of field or distance.
Thank you for your reply
Thank you for your reply
It seems to me that there is no good solution, for while a tilt-shift lens (like the Nikkor 85MM f2.8 PC) can enable you to make use of the Scheimpflug effect you wouldn't be able to make those adjustments while the lens is in the case, and the front glass of the case is unlikely to move from the standard position of being perpendicular to the optical axis.
Check out True Macro-Photography Forum section of our forum.
Jun 28, 2018 22:00:24 #
It sounds like you understand your problem, you lens and focal plane is flat while you subject is three dimensional. A lot of flowers you enjoy viewing are Flat and if you take caution and flatten your lens/same focal plane/ as the flower then more of the subject is in focus. I photograph mostly spiders in macro and when I take into consideration their shape, mostly round, I can still angle my lens till its flat to the subject before taking the shot. Reducing your aperture, to F/22 ect.. will help, but only to the camera and lens ability. To get full depth of field I resort to stacking, which requires multiple shots taken at incremental depths and then a separate software is used to fuse the focus parts together giving a greater depth of field in the final photograph. I also will use a wide open aperture to concentrate on just a Single element of a subject which if done probably with give you a pleasing result as well. Maybe isolating parts of your subject may be your answer, not sure if you can successfully stack under water, but this my be the answer as well.......
berasner wrote:
Yes, underwater. But even with with my housing and lens port, I have no serious issue of focus. It is an issue when some of the subject matter is at a different plane of focus or distance.
Thank you for your reply
Thank you for your reply
Jun 29, 2018 07:11:41 #
I think focus stacking is your answer, either in camera or in software later. I have an Olympus EM 1 Mark ll that does a great job of focus stacking in camera. I was never happy with my macro shots until I got this camera. Maybe rent one and see if it will work for you.
Jun 29, 2018 07:23:31 #
Several members have offered some good advice. Unfortunately, since they are likely not divers, they may not understand the uniqueness of underwater photography. You can encounter turbidity issues; the quality/color of light is filtered with depth; the working focal length of your lens changes in the water (refractive index of the medium is different from air); you may have currents/tidal flow and moving subjects.
Macro photography can be tough but rewarding. Underwater Macro? A real challenge. Good luck.
Macro photography can be tough but rewarding. Underwater Macro? A real challenge. Good luck.
Jun 29, 2018 07:24:20 #
I also shoot U/W and use a Nikon 105 macro. I typically shoot at f22 or smaller. Above water I do focus sharpening.
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