Sun flare- Blue hour shoot: Greetings, As a learning photographer, I like taking blue hour beach photo's. Mainly silhouettes with the low sun in the back ground. The photo's so far...

CWW Loc: North Jersey

Greetings, As a learning photographer, I like taking blue hour beach photo's. Mainly silhouettes with the low sun in the back ground. The photo's so far have turned out pretty good...exact for the sun flare. Here's my gear:
Sony A7711
16-50 f2
In camera program setting Sunrise/Sunset
UV filter
Is there a process to eliminate sun flare ie, reposition to a different angle, ND filter? Any advice is appreciated...Thanks!

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

The idea of using a quality ND filter is not a bad one.

UTMike Loc: South Jordan, UT

How about a graduated density filter? You can adjust according to conditions.

dmsM43

If you could post some examples, that would help. Some of your suggestions are pretty good. Changing your shooting angle can help sometimes. Filters only introduce more glass surfaces and can make flare worse, so removing any filters could help. An ND filter will do nothing to reduce flare. Using a different lens can help. Check out lens reviews to see how well different lenses handle flare. And finally, there is post processing, try using the clone or heal tools in your photo editing software.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Here are some tips that might help:
https://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-prevent-lens-flare/

https://digital-photography-school.com/control-sun-flare-photos/

Here is a UHH user's photo using flare as part of the composition:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-359667-7.html#6068936

Within that same discussion/photo share topic, pro photograph and UHH member burkphoto said, "Unfortunately, all filters will add some flare to sun-in-scene photos. They'll do the same for star light or moon light at night, so I remove all filters for night time sky photography. But I'll use an ND, perhaps a CPL, and maybe a star filter during the day...the quality of the 8X ND filter matters a lot. Multi-coated filters (B+W, Singh-Ray, etc.) will avoid flare the best."

One time when I was trying to shield the sun by using my hand, I remembered the fun effect of "forced perspective." That can make for a whimsical shot, like below.

btw, at the risk of being labeled pedantic, blue hour is the time prior to sunrise or after sunset (when the color appears to be predominantly blue), so usually no flare worries then because the sun is below the horizon. Here is more info:
https://www.photopills.com/articles/understanding-golden-hour-blue-hour-and-twilights

-

CO

Are you sure the 16-50mm lens is an f/2? I could only find a 16-50mm f/2.8 for Sony.

LensTip.com does extensive lens testing. I just brought up their testing for the Sony DT 16-50mm f/2.8 lens. Here's what they say about ghosting and flares. Click on this link to read the review.

https://www.lenstip.com/337.9-Lens_review-Sony_DT_16-50_mm_f_2.8_SSM_Ghosting_and_flares.html

9. Ghosting and flares
A big number of optical elements and some imperfections of the anti-reflection coatings make the work against bright light problematic for the tested lens. Significant ghosting and flares you can register with the Sun inside or outside the frame. Light artifacts can be seen at the maximum relative aperture and on stopping down as well. In some cases you can even register very distinct streaks of light which cut across the whole image.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

CWW wrote:

Greetings, As a learning photographer, I like taking blue hour beach photo's. Mainly silhouettes with the low sun in the back ground. The photo's so far have turned out pretty good...exact for the sun flare. Here's my gear:
Sony A7711
16-50 f2
In camera program setting Sunrise/Sunset
UV filter
Is there a process to eliminate sun flare ie, reposition to a different angle, ND filter? Any advice is appreciated...Thanks!

Yes, don’t shoot straight at the sun. Shoot at a slight angle, just enough to keep the light from bouncing back and forth on the elements.
Experiment to see just how much angle it takes so you get the ball but not the flare. Good luck
SS

CWW Loc: North Jersey

rjaywallace wrote:

The idea of using a quality ND filter is not a bad one.

Thank you for your response.

CWW Loc: North Jersey

Linda From Maine wrote:

Here are some tips that might help: br https://dig... (show quote)

Thanks for the blue hour correction and the time you took to share some great tips. Much appreciated!

CWW Loc: North Jersey

CO wrote:

Are you sure the 16-50mm lens is an f/2? I could o... (show quote)

Thank you for the time you took to respond. Great incite. Much appreciated!

CWW Loc: North Jersey

SharpShooter wrote:

Yes, don’t shoot straight at the sun. Shoot at a slight angle, just enough to keep the light from bouncing back and forth on the elements.
Experiment to see just how much angle it takes so you get the ball but not the flare. Good luck
SS

Thank you, much appreciated!

CWW Loc: North Jersey

dmsM43 wrote:

If you could post some examples, that would help. ... (show quote)

Thanks for your response. I'll need to figure out how to post a photo. Thanks again.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

SharpShooter wrote:

Yes, don’t shoot straight at the sun. Shoot at a slight angle, just enough to keep the light from bouncing back and forth on the elements.
Experiment to see just how much angle it takes so you get the ball but not the flare. Good luck
SS

CWW, listen to the man. You just gotta keep the sun off the front element of your lens. Lens hoods help. Random trees. Anything to cover the disk of the sun.

Larz

I've had good luck simply by changing the focal point to the extreme left or right. (Which I suppose is the long winded way of saying change the angle).

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Nobody needs a UV filter when shooting digital. The filter per se is enough to produce flare when shooting against the sun.
You are left to the mercy of your lens when shooting against the sun and some lenses are better than others when it comes to flare.
The only thing that you could do to improve the shot is to move your lens away from the sun.
Ditto on blue hours as explained by Linda.