Bobcat87

I recently read a short article about using old lenses in reverse on new DSLRs to get close-up effects, using a screw-on adapter. I have a Nikon D5600. I was thinking about trying this with some old (1960s and 1970s) Tacumar lenses that my husband had with his Pentax. I called our local camera shop inquiring about whether they have the adapters. They did not, and said that this technique would only work with a full frame camera anyway. Just wanted to ask you Hoggers if this sounds correct. By the way, the old lenses are the screw on type, if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance for your advice!

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

The format makes no difference. You’ll need a Nikon BR-2 ring, maybe a stepping ring for the Takumars. 50mm and wider primes work best. See the links in the True Macro Forum for all you could want to know.

14kphotog Loc: Marietta, Ohio

I used to do this in the film days, and got some really good pix. I don't know what difference a full frame camera would make. We did it by using a filter sized ring to match like-sized lens. I have herd of guys using tape to hold the lenses together. Try it and see what you get. then show us the pictures. I'm an old Pentax user, and still am. Have 3 of them.

Bill_de Loc: US

I have this one which allows you to use newer Nikon lenses. You can control the aperture with this.

https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Aperture-Control-Reverse-Photography/dp/B005ODKGLG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528329634&sr=8-7&keywords=fotodiox+52mm

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turp77 Loc: Connecticut, Plainfield

B&H has the adapter rings. Runs around $35-$40. You can find some plastic ones from $5 to $10. You can mount directly to the Camera or to a bellows assembly. Good luck have fun.

rcarol

You still need an adapter to attach the lens to the camera in the reversed position. The aperture control that you reference allows for control of the aperture as its name implies but does not allow for the lens to be attached in reverse to the camera.

Bill_de Loc: US

Both pieces are there for a 52 mm filter thread. Other sizes are available.

Look at the fifth picture on the left.

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rcarol

Thanks for the clarification. That makes all the difference and takes away my confusion.

Bill_de Loc: US

Ooops. I take that back. I just double checked my order from 2015 (gotta love Amazon) I did pay for 2 separate pieces. See

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G4NBSC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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rcarol

Thanks for the update to the update.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Reversing a lens will get you macro images but there are things to be aware of. The shorter the focal length of the reversed lens, the greater the magnification AND the closer you have to get to your subject. I bring this up for two reasons. The closer you are, the harder it is to get good exposure (getting enough light on your subject). The other reason is that the exposed rear element of the reversed lens is subject to damage. Nikon sold reversing rings (BR-2 & BR-2A for AF lenses) but they also sold the BR-3 which bayoneted onto the exposed rear mount of the Nikkor lens and it allowed one to put a filter on it effectively protecting the reversed lenses rear element.

EdJ0307 Loc: out west someplace

I have been wanting to get one of these adapters for a long time. I finally bit the bullet and ordered one from Amazon the other day, supposed to arrive today. Not that it was an expensive item, I just never got around to getting it. Looking forward to seeing how well it works for close-ups.

14kphotog Loc: Marietta, Ohio

I always bayoneted the first lens on the camera as normal, then reversed the second lens with a reversing ring, filter ring to filter ring. Camera mounted lens open app. to widest "f' stop, rev. lens f-5.6. Used a corded flash off camera to light subject. You lose MUCH light when rev. lenses but you can move corded flash close to subject.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Agreed... depending upon brand and how they controlled the aperture on their vintage lenses, you might need more than just the reversing ring, which itself is pretty simple... That ring just needs a bayonet to fit your camera on one side and threads on the opposite side to match up with the lens' filter threads. If you can't find a reverse ring with exactly the same thread diameter as the lens, it's likely to be possible to use a step ring to adapt a ring that's close to the same size. However, more may be needed...

For example, Canon FD/FL lenses are designed to stop down to f/5.6 when not on a camera (and also will do so if reversed) and you cannot change their aperture simply by turning the aperture ring. It's "locked" unless a button inside the mount is pressed. It so happens that Canon sold a "rear lens cap" for repair techs to use when working on their lenses, which fits into the FD/FL lens bayonet mount and causes the aperture to fully open, as well as allowing it to be manually adjusted. This "cap" also is open on the rear to allow the lens to be viewed through, so it also can be used if trying to reverse those old Canon lenses. Additionally, fitting this cap on the lens acts as sort of a lens hood, protecting the rear element from bumps or oblique light to some extent (though it's only about a half inch heep).

Problem is... GOOD LUCK finding one of those caps! AFAIK, no one makes them anymore and they never were very common. I bought the only one I've ever seen and still keep it with my FD/FL Canon lenses and cameras. It might be possible to make one from a standard FD/FL rear lens cap, but I've never tried it.

That's just one example... Other system lenses may present their own challenges. For example early Pentax Takumars have that manual aperture stop-down "switch" on the exterior and might be more easily used in reverse than later lenses where some mechanical linkage with the camera caused the same action. Might need something like the adapter at the Amazon link above, to be able to control the aperture properly (I've not actually tried using Takumar lenses reversed, so really don't know if this is the case.)

Another example, Konica Hexanon lenses I occasionally used that way were no problem... Those lenses open fully when off the camera (or reversed) and stop down precisely simply by turning the aperture ring. In fact for them there's an Auto Ring accessory made specifically for reversing that can be used to maintain open aperture for easier focusing until the instant the shutter is released, when it's released to stop down to the set aperture... However that will only work in with a camera that uses the "old school" types of cable releases and a double cable release is needed.

Or, if you have any fully manual aperture or "preset" aperture lenses, those would be very simple to use reversed. Many early SLR systems used those... plus it was common for both types to be offered in third party lenses through the 1970s, approx.

So it really depends upon the system and even the lens types within any given system. Some will be easily used reversed... while others more difficult.



You're describing "reverse stacking" lenses, which is a bit different from simply reversing even though the idea and purposes are similar.

Reverse stacking can be a bit trickier because you need to find two lenses that work well together. The lens that's reversed up front is usually a shorter focal length such as a 24mm or 28mm, which will act sort of like a really fancy "diopter" lens. Ideally it should have the same filter thread size as the "base" lens it's going to be used upon, but it might be possible to adapt using step rings if there's slight differences in diameter. A different type of "reverse stacking ring" is needed... male threaded on both sides to match the filter threads both lenses (instead of the bayonet mount/filter thread type of ring mentioned above).

Usually the "base" lens used for reverse stacking needs to be a short telephoto in the 85mm to 135mm range. The last time I did a reverse-stack setup, I used a 135mm as the base lens and reversed a 28mm on the front of it. Also, the "base" lens needs to be a type that's compatible with the camera... both it's bayonet mount and whatever aperture control might be used. That would be easy with Nikon cameras because there are many vintage manual focus lenses that might be used, since their modern DSLRs still use the same F-mount as their older, all mechanical lenses used since 1959. "G" type lenses and some of the vintage "E"... which lack an aperture control ring... could not be used as the "base" lens. But that still leaves lots of possibilities, both vintage and modern.

Choice of a "base" lens would be a bit more limited with modern Canon DSLRs, because of the electronic aperture control utilized by the EOS/EF mount. You'd have to select a lens that's compatible with the modern cameras, or adapt one from another system that has a mechanically controlled aperture.

SteveR Loc: Michigan

Forget the screw on adapter. Just do it like many of us did back in film days and hold the lens on backwards with your left hand.