Best article on Vibration Reduction
May 24, 2018 01:48:22 #
I see a lot written about vr, is, etc and the importance of that feature in a lens or camera in some cases. Years ago I was shooting with a Nikon 55-300 vr and studied how long it took to stabilize. About 1-1.5 seconds. Then I thought, what happens if a dog for example is running and moving towards me, i'm using high speed shutter at 4 or 5 frames per second, how will the lens stabilize quickly enough? Then, I read to turn off vr when shooting on a tripod. Finally, what did photographers do before vr came onto the market. Lots of you tube videos showing me brick walls or stationary objects being stabilized. Granted, great for video and very long mm lenses, but how about a 24-70, 70-200, 85, 50 with 1.8 - 2.8 apertures. I have two lenses without it - 17-55 2.8, 24-70 2.8 that seem to work well and were not cheap. Then, I hear sports photographers turn it off. Some very good cameras can shoot at 10+ frames per second. Here are some images shot without VR from a 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8, indoors, no flash allowed, all action based subjects. Shutter speed 1/200 or 1/250, wide open at 2.8, cropped. When I tried these shots with VR on, 1/60, too much blur. I also shoot ballroom dancers and the same thing happens. Thank God for autoISO and manual with high speed shutter with short to long bursts FWIW, upon image reviews, I've seen the camera choose ISO's that varied dramatically and I would have NEVER been able to make the adjustments that quickly or without chimping. Or, more importantly chosen an ISO so low. Images taken with Nikon d750. My point, there is good value to VR and IS etc but it's not a panacea. It won't make you a much better photographer if you don't understand other basic concepts. http://www.dslrbodies.com/lenses/lens-articles/lens-technique/all-about-nikon-vr.html
May 24, 2018 02:10:18 #
Here's the 55-300dx, good light, ss probably around 1/1000, high speed shutter on I believe a d5100.
May 24, 2018 02:29:52 #
May 24, 2018 03:30:26 #
glad it was helpful. i would study the exposure triangle and how light affects an image. its about light, composition and your ability to manipulate those things. dont get hung up on things like lens sharpness, vr. learn a post processing package like lightroom. learn from others who can show you their work vrs just their opinions. dont be afraid to buy used lenses. buy a 50mm 1.8 and practice on that until you master it. make thousands of mistakes. get a speedlight and learn to bounce it. learn fill flash. shoot in the shade. join a photography club and learn to take criticism and have thick skin. i used to take hundreds of practice shots and if i got a couple of good ones, i was happy. remember, images straight out of the camera will rarely compete with images shot in raw and then retouched in lightroom. just my two cents. ps - go to barnes and noble and get some books on the best pics ever taken, or the best nat geo images. look at the lighting, look at the composition. learn what rembbrandt lighting is. study some of the great artists and look at their lighting. As time goes by, you will learn the limitations of your equipment, then you can buy some better gear and actually understand why its better. dont bitch about how heavy your camera or lens has become. suck it up and get stronger! lol
May 24, 2018 03:51:13 #
patrick43 wrote:
Very enlightening to me, a novice trying to learn. Thanks
Here are two images that might be helpful. The gal is spinning - she is NOT tack sharp, especially her hair. I had set my shutter speed. left it there and was using autoISO, left aperture at 2.8 to allow more light, less noise (its why I paid so much for that lens!!) and decided to allow any blur to her hair/body. I accomplished what I wanted. The shot is sharp enough and her hair shows movement and creates an impression in someones mind of that movement. Others might shoot it differently. Next image, nothing special but she is against a stark black background which was created in lightroom. So I manipulated the image as to not have any distractions. Just her alone, no blur, very sharp, and isolated. Your focus becomes her only. So, manipulation of the image/composition by shooting approach and use of post processing software. Straight out of the camera, SOOC, would not be nearly the same.
May 24, 2018 13:12:29 #
Nice shots and articles .. especially the article on Nikon VR ... thnx ..
May 25, 2018 08:33:31 #
Good images of complex subjects. Thanks for the article on Nikon VR. IMHO, that article should be a "must read" for all Nikon owners with VR lenses.
May 25, 2018 09:36:00 #
May 25, 2018 09:36:00 #
May 25, 2018 09:48:20 #
Wow, I just asked about this in a separate post. I’ve been trying to justify spending money for a new lens with OS/VC to replace an older one without. Thanks for posting the article link, gave me that much more to think about.
May 25, 2018 11:12:58 #
Wow, I just asked about this in a separate post. IÃÂÃÂÃÂâÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂve been trying to justify spending money for a new lens with OS/VC to replace an older one without......
Where I might pay the extra premium for the VC is with a slower lens ie zoom with 3.5-4.5 aperture (70-300) or something like that. It makes a pretty big difference when shooting in low light/no flash as per my images above. Unless you have a camera that has exceptional high ISO low noise ability, like my d750, you might struggle a bit. I remember shooting with my d7100 and 18-140 lens and trying the shots like I showed above. If I went to a shutter speed of maybe 1/200, while zooming and having an aperture of around 4. 5 or so, I would need a very high iso and would get noise and the image would just break down, especially if I had to crop which I do a lot. Alternatively, if I lowered the ss too much, I got blur. I tested this in a large church, shooting from the balcony, of stage singers and baptisms. I had to be probably 100 ft or so from the stage. I even tried a Canon with a 50-250 zoom, still horrible images. Understand that this situation puts a strain on a sensor. Bright sunny day, no problems with any of the cameras. So, since I shot every week at two different church locations and the lighting was always challenging, changing etc, I bit the bullet, went full frame Nikon d750 and bought good glass 24-70 and 70-200 2.8. Best decision I ever made! That combo blew away my d7100 and 18-140. NOT EVEN CLOSE! I even went to work for a newspaper and did some photojounalism. Started shooting more weddings and other events. That's where I learned the manual approach with autoISO and have never looked back. My point is that VC on a Tamron (I think) is very good and probably helpful in many situations, but high stress circumstances where you are shooting action with higher shutter speeds, you need good glass and camera.
Where I might pay the extra premium for the VC is with a slower lens ie zoom with 3.5-4.5 aperture (70-300) or something like that. It makes a pretty big difference when shooting in low light/no flash as per my images above. Unless you have a camera that has exceptional high ISO low noise ability, like my d750, you might struggle a bit. I remember shooting with my d7100 and 18-140 lens and trying the shots like I showed above. If I went to a shutter speed of maybe 1/200, while zooming and having an aperture of around 4. 5 or so, I would need a very high iso and would get noise and the image would just break down, especially if I had to crop which I do a lot. Alternatively, if I lowered the ss too much, I got blur. I tested this in a large church, shooting from the balcony, of stage singers and baptisms. I had to be probably 100 ft or so from the stage. I even tried a Canon with a 50-250 zoom, still horrible images. Understand that this situation puts a strain on a sensor. Bright sunny day, no problems with any of the cameras. So, since I shot every week at two different church locations and the lighting was always challenging, changing etc, I bit the bullet, went full frame Nikon d750 and bought good glass 24-70 and 70-200 2.8. Best decision I ever made! That combo blew away my d7100 and 18-140. NOT EVEN CLOSE! I even went to work for a newspaper and did some photojounalism. Started shooting more weddings and other events. That's where I learned the manual approach with autoISO and have never looked back. My point is that VC on a Tamron (I think) is very good and probably helpful in many situations, but high stress circumstances where you are shooting action with higher shutter speeds, you need good glass and camera.
May 25, 2018 15:32:52 #
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