I had to put up with wind and was trying different settings on the Helicon FB Tube. Also trying to use the new wired multi function remote shutter release. I got that figured out after I came back inside - seems there are two shutter buttons on it, one for the set # of frames* you put in and one that just keeps shooting until you release it - that one has a lock. Had nearly 600 frames by the time I was done and less than 50 after I deleted the rejects and shots of nothing I took learning the remote shutter.
*that one is labeled "start" and also starts the time lapse and shutter delay functions.
5 shot stack, there were 2 others of the interior that came out too dark to be useful so I deleted them and 3 of the foreground that wind movement ruined so I deleted them and cropped in closer.
5DIV, Canon 100 macro
llamb
Loc: Northeast Ohio
Great photograph! Great caption!
~Lee
Great pic. Can you recommend a good focusing rail that won't break the bank?
Bob, you are becoming the stack king!
tcthome wrote:
Great pic. Can you recommend a good focusing rail that won't break the bank?
I don't really use one. I have a FlashPoint (Adorama house brand) but never liked using it much. Pro Master makes a more advanced one for $99. And of course there are the chip/computer controlled ones that cost hundreds.
I use three methods:
1. Helicon FB Tube with internal processor that changes the focus of the lens.
2. Change focus by manual focus or using AF (one shot) focus on part of the subject, (when using AF I keep holding shutter 1/2 way down) move center point to a selected spot, shoot a frame, put AF on another part and repeat until I have the shots I want.
3. A trick I saw demonstrated. Using manual focus or one shot focus and burst for the shutter setting focus on the foreground (or background would work) and then with the shutter down on burst move/lean slowly forward or backward until the focus point is past the other edge of the subject. This one is tricky and requires a lot of practice. You get a lot of rejects but it can be done on the spur of the moment. In fact once I learned of this I went back and looked at some flower/plant shots I did where I used burst because the plant was swaying in the wind hoping to get one frame in focus and tried stacking the burst - some of them came out very well - almost as if it was deliberate and I knew what I was doing. One of those that worked out was done almost two years before I ever tried focus stacking.
Of course it was only possible because I had some folders that I had not gotten around to culling an deleting rejects. I do that is spurts, I will go over a few dozen folders culling then get bored and make a note where in the files I stopped and go back to do more another day. I have 15 years of digital files to cull, I have done about 12 of them so far.
UTMike wrote:
Bob, you are becoming the stack king!
I am just currently determined to learn to do it right. (well do it fairly well) So I can add it to my store of techniques. Then I will move on to learning something else and pull out stacking when needed.
Nikon man here, but you might try back button focusing when stacking, so you don't have to hold shutter down when re-focusing. Move focus to new spot, (on Nikon you can tell where the focus is) refocus, and you're done.
barryb wrote:
Nikon man here, but you might try back button focusing when stacking, so you don't have to hold shutter down when re-focusing. Move focus to new spot, (on Nikon you can tell where the focus is) refocus, and you're done.
I have tried BBF and I personally don't like it. Plus I am not holding the shutter down while focusing, but while moving the center point back to my registration point for the framing/composition.
Focus on front edge of the closest point of the flower, put center point on registration point I picked on the flower, take picture.
Focus on a different part of the flower a tad back from the front edge, put center point back on registration point I picked, take picture.
Repeat with different points on the flower (or other subject) until I have focal points covering the whole subject near to far.
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