So disappointed.
This is in response to the image linked to in the other thread (I posted it there, too):
Shutter speed is 1/320. Equivalent focal length is 450mm. Minimum shutter speed to stop motion is 1/(actual focal length x crop factor) or 1/(300x1.5) or 1/450 (1/500 is slightly faster... use that.)
Focus point saw the vertical brick surface in the foreground. Read your manual regarding the various auto and manual focusing strategies and settings. Just learning the technique of using a single focus point, placed on what you want sharp, then holding the button half way down as you recompose and expose, will help A LOT.
Skylight is blue; AWB (automatic white balance) read the bright background and set the camera for daylight (or so it appears), making the bird blue. Recording raw images and post-processing on a calibrated monitor can correct this sort of error. If you want to record JPEGs at the camera and get it right, you need a preset white balance in reference to a white balance target placed in the part of the scene that you wish to render with normal (accurate) color.
The bird is underexposed, because the meter read most of the scene for the bright background.
ISO is not listed in the metadata.
The lens was wide open at 300mm (f/5.6). That lens is not very sharp at the long end; most zooms with more than a 3:1 zoom ratio aren't. And most zooms in that price range are soft at the long end, especially when the aperture is wide open. You would be better off to raise ISO by two or three stops and set the camera for shutter priority (you set the speed, the camera sets the aperture). You need BOTH a faster shutter speed and an aperture of about f/8 to f/11.
Using a camera and lens like these, for a scene like this, on full automatic, compromises virtually everything. You would do well to take some courses in photography, or read a book on exposure.
Try not to compare results with this camera and the P900. They have differently-sized sensors. They are designed for different sorts of work. To use this camera and get equivalent crops, would require a 1000mm lens and a 2X teleconverter... prohibitively expensive for all but the most well-heeled pros or venture capitalists!
Nikon View NX-i and Nikon Capture NX-D can show where your focus point(s) landed. You camera placed one focus point on the wall and one on the bird. Check your camera and lens for front and back focusing issues.
You're using the .jpeg files out of the camera. The camera applies the Picture Control settings to the .jpeg files. The sharpening of the Picture Controls is set to Auto. I'm not sure how much it will sharpen the photo. Go through all of the Picture Controls - standard, neutral, vivid, monochrome, and all of the others and set the sharpening to level 6.
The camera placed one focus point on the wall and one on the bird.
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This is the metadata from your photo.
Bobspez wrote:
I saw your bird pic. You were focused on the rock wall. The wall is in sharp focus, the bird is slightly out of focus. Are you using single point autofocus with the smallest focus area so you can focus on the bird's head? Sometimes live view gives a sharper focus. Your pic isn't bad. The 300mm lens will give you a bit less reach than the P900. Full zoom on the P900 will probably be equivalent to a 500mm lens on your new D3300 camera. Equivalent focal lengths aren't equivalent on different size sensors. I get about the same resolution with my B700 at full zoom (eq. focal length 1440mm) as with my Nikon D7000 with a 400mm lens (eq focal length 600mm).
I saw your bird pic. You were focused on the rock ... (
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Bob thanks for your observations I will bare them in mind when I next take some pics.
I just went from a d200 to a d500, the 500 is much faster and similar in operation then the 200, I thought I was pretty good at photography, and when I first picked up the 500 and the first 300 pictures were not good. It was not the camera it was the user. I have alot to learn about the new technology of the d500.
CO wrote:
Nikon View NX-i and Nikon Capture NX-D can show where your focus point(s) landed. You camera placed one focus point on the wall and one on the bird. Check your camera and lens for front and back focusing issues.
You're using the .jpeg files out of the camera. The camera applies the Picture Control settings to the .jpeg files. The sharpening of the Picture Controls is set to Auto. I'm not sure how much it will sharpen the photo. Go through all of the Picture Controls - standard, neutral, vivid, monochrome, and all of the others and set the sharpening to level 6.
Nikon View NX-i and Nikon Capture NX-D can show wh... (
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Co thanks this is all very heavy stuff for me but I guess to progress I need to be able to understand it, I have a mate who I don't see too often but who will probably be able to explain it all to me. There is always somebody on UHH who is prepared to give of his or her time - much appreciated !
"All take handheld but that should not make a difference." Of course it does if you do not have a tripod. Chances are excellent that if the AUTO feature of the camera selects a shutter speed below the 300mm focal length your pictures will show blur or softness EVEN using VR. VR controls the movement of the hands but to a certain extent.
Learn the camera, learn basic photography and begin to use the camera in other auto modes like Aperture Priority. Your camera does not make the pictures, you do.
prcb1949 wrote:
After taking around 400 shots with my recently arrived D3300 and Nikon AF-S 55-300 DX VR lens I decided to have a look at what I had taken - expecting to find an improvement over my Nikon Coolpix P900 - oh dear, oh dear I cannot remember when last I have been so disappointed. I had shot on auto as I do with my P900. There is not a single keeper amongst them. All the shots were taken at the front of my flat where I first put the P900 through its pace so to speak. In fact a lot of the shots taken were a closer distances than I had previously shot from - and without exception they were horrible. All take handheld but that should not make a difference. So where to now. ?
After taking around 400 shots with my recently arr... (
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You did not say what the problem was with the images. Were they out of focus, or were they exposed improperly? Or was the problem white balance or sharpness or what?
pecohen wrote:
You did not say what the problem was with the images. Were they out of focus, or were they exposed improperly? Or was the problem white balance or sharpness or what?
The photo is posted in this thread:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-528612-1.html
williejoha wrote:
Of course I mean ISO.
WJH
Thanks I got your meaning I am having to read all the replies and digest them as there is so much I don't have a clue on.
Jerry G
Loc: Waterford, Michigan and Florida
williejoha wrote:
What was your ASA set for?
WJH
Wow you've been at this awhile. I often catch myself saying ASA.
williejoha wrote:
What was your ASA set for?
WJH
Makes me wonder how old you are.
olemikey
Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida
Wall in focus - bird not so much - single point focus would help.
prcb1949 wrote:
...I will try and get my head around all that
prcb1949 wrote:
...I am having to read all the replies and digest them as there is so much I don't have a clue on.
It appears to me that you are receiving random bits of information on many aspects of photography, when in reality you would be far better served by a course of study in an
organized way. You are also reading phrases and terms that you are unfamiliar with and if it were me, my head would be spinning by now
Time to stop posting UHH help request topics, and instead read a
beginner's book, such as Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson, or take an online class. This site is no substitute for the strong foundation you need in order to move forward. I promise you will be less disappointed!
Improvement as in … ???? My daughter got decent pictures in a museum, no flash and hand held, with her cell phone. Mine with my D7000, not so much. That's when I discovered the magic of Auto-ISO. Your more advanced camera has more settings to consider before the shot than does the P900. One thing you might want to check is how your new camera is focusing. Check to see whether it's using a matrix of focus points or a single focus point. The same with metering, a central area or broader area. I suspect that in Auto mode it's applying a matrix to both which could result in lots of focusing and metering issues with more advanced cameras. Those are just my thoughts.
No camera or lens, regardless of its cost, can substitute for knowledge and an understanding of exposure, focus, composition and other principles of good photography.
A skilled photographer can produce better photographs with a smartphone than a novice using a $3,000 Canon or Nikon shooting with AUTO.
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