sergei

I have a question which may look strange if not stupid. When autofocus in my camera (Canon Rebel EOS) started to give me a hard time, I though first that this is not a big problem - after all in good old times when world and me were young there was no AF around, everybody used only manual focusing. So, if AF in my Rebel became rebellious, I will just use MF - end of problem!
But everything turn out to be not that simple. In good old times there were some build in
optical gadgets or devices which helped photographer to focus through the viewfinder.
In my lenses there is AF/MF switch, but there is not any focusing help (at least I did not find any). And my eyesight is not anymore like one of an eagle. Practical results are less than satisfying, so problem is still here.
I think MF could be helpful not only in case of malfunctioned AF. Normal AF also may have problem if contrast of scene or lighting condition are poor. In such a case MF could be very handy. I wonder if anybody knows any settings or tricks, that may help with manual focusing in contemporary cameras? Will be very nice of you to share. Thank you!

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

There are a few problems with manual focus on modern camera lenses. For one thing, compared to film lenses, the manual focus ring has a very short travel range, so it's relatively difficult to get small movements to get accurate focus. For a second thing it's much slower than autofocus so it's easy to miss the shot if it's not a stationary subject. Probably the best aid for manual focus is the live view lcd magnifier.

Don's Leica Loc: Asheville, NC

Leica M series are mechanical rangefinder manual focus cameras continuing more than half a century with same or similar changeable lenses. Transitioned to digital about 10 years ago. Same lenses still work, but are not auto focus.

Kuzano

Options...

Some camera's still have options for focus screen changes that are similar to the old split image screens, and such.
I changed out screens on a number of my Olympus camera's using Katzeye, but they are no longer in business the last I checked. However, some camera's still have options for changing out focus screens.

It also helps to know if your camera is using Contrast Detection or Phase Detection for AF.

Then along came live view and EVF where a portion of the viewfinder increases in size and gains up. This is helpful.

The salvation for me has been to switch totally to camera's that have focus peeking, which involves live view and a focus threshold in various colors (choose one) where when the focus crosses the colored threshold, focus is indicated by the change in phase edges (my own explanation here). Someone may be able to explain this better.

I probably would not mess with legacy MF lenses if not for Focus Peeking.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

Since auto focusing is so accurate, manual focusing is rarely used and so is not aided in most cameras (split screen or microprism is in the body, not the lens). What is the problem with your camera? Posting an example will help us analyze it. Make sure to select photo, store original.

DWU2 Loc: Phoenix Arizona area

Try switching to Live View and zooming in to assist with manual focus.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

Kuzano, which cameras have focus peaking? Do any support Nikon manual lenses?

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Auto focus systems can become inaccurate if you camera has multiple choices as to various focus modes within the frame. It use to be simple with a center weighted focus zone where the camera would focus on whatever was in the center of the field. If you want selective focus you could center focus on the plane you desire, lock in the focus and then shift the composition as you intended it. If you are experiencing difficulty, check your camera's manual and make certain that it is set for a mode that you can easily manage.

Early in the autofocus era, I recall some of my cameras "deciding" to drift or suddenly fly out of focus for no apparent reason- perhaps in low light. Some early models hand slower servo mechanisms that could not keep up with any kind of fast moving subject. I have not experienced this with my current gear.

What with the proliferation of autofocus, many photographers have forgotten their basic manual focusing technique and the young folks never learned this in the first place. True enough, the mechanical travel on most modern lenses make this difficult but it can be done, especially if you are not shootin rapidly breaking action and have time to focus precisely.
If you find it necessary to manual focus, decide on the point you want to focus on, bein ti tit focus on then go slightly beyond that point and bring in back. It's called rocking into focus.

It is important to familiarize yourself with depth of field principles as to hyperfocal distances and essentially knowing WHERE to focus on any particular scene, subject or group. Oftentimes photographers are disappointed in their results in that even with smaller apertures and sufficient depth of field, they failed to focus on the right distance point in the field to provide acceptable sharpness where they expected it.

With wide angle lenses and zoom focal lengths, manual focusing can be exceedingly difficult. The mechanical travel of the mechanism may be supercritical and the depth of focus in the viewfinder can be perplexing. I really miss the DOP scales on older lenses where by I could scale focus as per the hyperfocal distance and predetermine my depth of field.

Another focusing aid, especially if you wear eyeglasses or contact lenses, is a built in diopter lens in your viewfinder's eyepiece to accommodate you prescription or just add a bit of additional magnification.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

If you want to shoot with manual focus, AND your camera can accept a non-standard focusing screen, that would be one way to go. Microprism and Split Image were great at getting good focus. But you'd still have to get around the short throw on the focus ring. The only current lenses that have a long throw are macro lenses and tilt-shift lenses, both of which require considerable amount of manual fine-tuning for best focus.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

It would help if you tell us your camera model - what type of Rebel is it?

You can't typically change focusing screens on a Rebel, and things like the Katzeye replacements usually interfered with auto focus functions. Usually with Canon cameras they can be set to provide a visual flash in the viewfinder and an audible beep when focus is achieved. This works on my Canon EOS cameras with modern EF / EF-S lenses as well as with my adapted manual focus lenses (FL/FD, and other brands) but on my T3i only with apertures of f/5.6 and wider, and with center point focus mode.

Perhaps resetting the camera would help, but please tell us the model so we can check the manual. Perhaps the camera has a fault, since it should be possible to get focus confirmation in manual focusing modes.

Good luck

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

Microprism and split screen are in created by the prism. Most DSLRs do not have interchangeable prisms so they can't hve that focusing aid.

Bill_de Loc: US

I'm curious. How would a picture determine why his auto focus isn't working or how best to manual focus with his specific camera? I seems to me (and I could be missing something) that asking for a photo is a standard response to any question.

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Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

It wouldn't specifically, but if posted with store original checked we would get the EXIF data that may help diagnose problems and identify the camera, lens etc.

BebuLamar

Nope. On my Nikon F3 the microprism ring and the split image in the center both work with the prism removed. Although I don't like them so I put in a screen that is plain.

Bill_de Loc: US

Thanks!

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