dparsh wrote:
... What do you think would be the best settings??...
vonzip wrote:
Say Linda, When you say 2 stops lower are you talking about setting the exposure compensation or something else? Thanks vz.
I'm going to explain in a way that is probably going to make the "high-tech" and "you're a failure if you don't use manual exposure" folks cringe
The numbers on the exposure compensation dial represent a "stop" of exposure and often have markers to show in 1/3 increments, as well. A couple of examples of a stop: there is one stop difference between 1/100 second and 1/200 second shutter speed. There is one stop difference between ISO 100 and ISO 200 (apertures are not so straightfward as far as "numbers" go).
https://www.photographymad.com/pages/view/what-is-a-stop-of-exposure-in-photographyFor the bird in this thread, I would probably use aperture priority. If it was moving, I'd use shutter priority if I wanted to ensure a fast enough shutter speed to avoid motion blur.
Say I wanted to have a relatively shallow depth of field - one that blurs the background. My choice of setting is going to depend on how far away the bird is, the focal length of the lens I'm using, and the type of camera (for example, bridge cameras with smaller sensors offer more depth of field than full frame pro dslr's for a given f/stop).
Depth of field calculator:
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.htmlI'll select f/5.6 for aperture value. If the day is cloudy I might try ISO 400. Now, in aperture priority, that leaves the camera to decide what shutter speed to assign. I want to take a quick look at what the camera is going to choose for shutter speed because I know I can't hold the camera as steady as I used to and I don't like tripods
These factors may require my raising the ISO. I'd prefer to deal with noise than motion blur from a too-slow shutter speed.
Once I'm happy with ISO and shutter speed, I have one more step. If I let the camera choose the final exposure via overall scene metering, the bird is going to be too white, as we saw in the OP. So I turn the exposure compensation dial to -1. If that is still too light, maybe try -1.3 or -1.7 or -2. This action darkens the entire image.
Because I'm using aperture priority, when I go to minus on the compensation dial, the camera will
increase the shutter speed, a win/win in my case
There are other options, including spot metering, fully manual exposure, shooting in raw to give yourself a better chance to make additional exposure adjustments and capture fine detail in pp. One thought that comes to mind about spot metering (which I don't have much experience with) is you still might need to adjust exposure as the camera will try to make bright white more gray. If you've shot snow scenes, you know how that goes.
Hopefully I haven't confused the issue here too much. I'd be happy to attempt to clarify any of my statements. But please know there are many bird photographers on UHH who are
far more experienced than I, with much better equipment too!