toxdoc42

It appears that the setting dial on my Nikon D3400, which I thought was on manual, was somewhere between it and effects. I didn't like what the shot looked like when viewed on the canera and then switched it to manual for the second shot. Was this what happens with super vivid? I have never tried such effects before. I will now have to experiment with the camera's effects.

what caused this?

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straight shot

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lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

You actually like that first [jpeg] shot? I don't. Yes, it does look like a mistake. The third one has shadow detail. To repeat to everyone, I shoot Raw so I don't get such surprises!

myviewphotos

I dont know the answer, but it reminds me of a photo my husband took with his point n shoot Olympus. His picture was made on a lovely fall day and turned out with pinks, magentas etc......totally weird. BUT, we love that pic. We call it his "Monet". Just a quirky gift.

shangyrhee Loc: Nashville TN to Sacramento CA

A similar happened when I accidentally left too large f stop (2 or 3 stops ) than proper value. Shang

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

The first image shows the Picture Control was set to VIVID using Auto WB and Exposure Mode = AUTO. The second image using Picture Control = STANDARD, WB = Sunny and Exposure = Manual. You can use the Nikon software to investigate the EXIF data in the image to understand the settings, as well as similar 3rd-party processing tools. Many of the relevant settings can be seen directly on the camera when playing back the image.

toxdoc42

thanks, i had discovered that the dial was between M and effects, so that makes sense. I will have to find the exif information. it isn't part of the properties on Win10.

Feiertag Loc: British Columbia, Canada

Hey Paul, how are able to see his EXIF data? I must be missing or overlooking that option.

Harold

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Hey Harold, what tool(s) are you using? For Canon images, I pull the file into Canon's DPP to read and display. I don't shoot Nikon any longer so I don't have their tools installed to do the same on a Nikon created image. Instead, I used a tool called EXIFTOOL that runs in a CMD window to extract and dump the EXIF data into a text file for analysis.

Feiertag Loc: British Columbia, Canada

Thanks for the reply, Paul. I shot Nikon and only use Lightroom CC. I was just curiuos. Cheers!

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Lightroom has access to all the data. In the Library Module, you can view Metadata and set to EXIF. I haven't spent time customizing this display, but I would expect you can expand or otherwize customize this display to access more EXIF than the out-of-box fields that LR presents.

Feiertag Loc: British Columbia, Canada

Thanks Paul.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Yes, that seems to be Vivid. I always shoot Neutral - or whatever it's called - when I shoot JPEG, but I usually shoot raw. It can be fun to play around with the Effects the camera offers.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

I am sure you set something in your camera that caused the change in colors. I see nothing wrong shooting JPEG images but since the firmware of the camera will intervene to make the final image the operator needs to know how to set the camera for the final results.
This will never happen using RAW files because those files DO NOT have an embedded color profile or have a way to change colors but RAW files are not universal files that can be read by all monitors and software. RAW requires especial software to edit and it also requires expertise on the part of the person editing the file to bring all of the goodness a RAW file is capable of. No professional lab that I know of print RAW files or wide color spaces so we have to convert the RAW file to JPEG and if we have been working with a wide color space like ProPhoto or Adobe RGB we have to compress the colors to the sRGB color space which is considerably smaller. How much we loose in the process I do not really know.
Pay a little more attention when shooting JPEG files and remember that what you set in your camera you will get after the shot.

Morning Star Loc: West coast, North of the 49th N.

According to the exif data of these three photos, the first was taken with a setting of "high saturation (2)", the other two with a setting of "normal saturation (0)".
I don't know your camera, or how to change these settings, you'd have to check your user's guide.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

The first shot is a combination of slight over-exposure and an unusual (vivid) picture style.

The other two are more accurately exposed and use a more natural picture style.

If you were shooting RAW files, you can freely change the picture styles and have more latitude to adjust exposure, if needed.

All cameras initially capture a RAW file. You can set the camera to save that, then process the image later using your computer and larger monitor screen (ideally the screen should be calibrated, so you aren't fooled into mis-adjusting your images).

If you set a camera to JPEG, it does the processing of the image immediately in-camera, using whatever picture style has been selected, then "throws away" all the "extra data" (as a result, JPEG files are a lot smaller than RAW files).

In addition to the "normal" photographic exposure modes (Manual, Aperture priority auto exposure, Shutter priority AE and Program AE.... plus Manual with Auto IS AE now, on many cameras).... Many have super automated "scene modes". Those are usually indicated by an icon on the dial, such as a "running man" (okay, "running person" to be totally PC) for "sports" mode... or a "mountain" for scenic mode.... maybe a "flower" for macro mode.... "head and shoulders person" for portrait mode... yada, yada. Each of these does a lot more than just set up exposure mode. They also dictate the picture style, AF setup, type of file that can be saved (usually only JPEG), frame rate, whether the flash functions or not, the range of shutter speeds available, the apertures that can be used, won't allow exposure compensation and possibly more. These are essentially "point n shoot" modes. Many cameras also have a general purpose, "I have no idea what I'll be shooting" super auto mode (Canon "A+", Nikon "Auto", etc.).... Think of this as a "camera phone" mode, where the camera makes all decisions for you (right or wrong).

Study your camera, experiment with the modes and learn to choose carefully for different situations. "Manual" isn't the only mode to use, by any means. Experienced photogs learn to use M, A, S, P and even M+Auto ISO.... Each of these have their uses. Experienced photogs generally DON'T use the scene modes or full auto mode. (Note: more pro-oriented cameras often don't even have the scene modes.)

For your sample shot I might have used Aperture priority AE to insure that Depth of Field was adequate to get everything near to far in sharp focus.... Or if I wanted to cause the flowing stream to blur, Shutter priority to set a slow speed that would render that effect OR a fast speed to insure that it DIDN'T blur.... Or, if I wanted control over both DoF and subject motion blur, I might use Manual mode (also could use it with Auto ISO, if the ISO range wasn't pushed too high causing excessive noise in images). I always shoot RAW (sometimes RAW + JPEG when I need immediate access to the images... but never just JPEG alone), too... so have full latitude to make a lot of changes to an image or experiment with it, later on on using my computer and calibrated, graphics quality monitor.