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Butterfly and Bee
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Jul 11, 2012 15:44:25   #
jmdenver Loc: Colorado
 
Just some local flora and fauna.







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Jul 11, 2012 20:36:39   #
Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio
 
Yes very nice shots...and thanks for posting.

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Jul 11, 2012 20:48:50   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
NONE of your images above are macro-photographs. All are close-ups.
The butterfly can be cropped much tighter, and the bees cropped to macro proportions.





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Jul 11, 2012 22:16:33   #
jmdenver Loc: Colorado
 
Bret, thanks for looking. I have been watching this site for quite some time now and admire your work.

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Jul 11, 2012 22:23:07   #
tinusbum Loc: east texas
 
nice shots,really like the butterfly.tom

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Jul 11, 2012 22:24:52   #
jmdenver Loc: Colorado
 
Nikonian72, please excuse my ignorance. I still am not sure how a close-up and a macro differ. I know a macro is at least 1:1 but how can you tell if what you are shooting meets that requirement? I see you cropped my photos much tighter and they maintained the same quality of resolution that they had previously. I used a Tamron 90mm with a D7000 and was approximately 10 inches from the bee and maybe 24 inches from the butterfly. In other posts, I have read that simply cropping a close-up does not make it a macro yet you seemed to imply by cropping my photos that they are now macros. I am missing something. Would you be so kind as to enlighten me? Many thanks in advance.

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Jul 11, 2012 22:27:11   #
jmdenver Loc: Colorado
 
Thanks, Tinusbum, I appreciate your input.

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Jul 12, 2012 01:17:01   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
jmdenver wrote:
I still am not sure how a close-up and a macro differ. I know a macro is at least 1:1 but how can you tell if what you are shooting meets that requirement?
The best way to see true macro is to:
1.) turn-off Auto-Focus;
2.) adjust lens to closest focus, know as Minimum Focusing Distance (MFD);
3.) select photo mode (Aperture priority, Shutter priority, Manual);
4.) move entire camera/lens combo in-&-out toward subject, taking photo when image is in focus via eyepiece;
5.) note Working Distance (between lens front element & subject).

To capture true macro with a 90-mm lens on a Nikon body, WD is 135-mm = 5.3-inches. Any farther away is a close-up. MFD results in minimal DoF. I tend to shoot a bit farther back (better DoF), then crop to macro proportions. 10-inches will not capture a true macro image, but is crop-able; 24-inches is definitely too far away for macro.

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Jul 12, 2012 01:21:48   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
jmdenver wrote:
I have read that simply cropping a close-up does not make it a macro yet you seemed to imply by cropping my photos that they are now macros. I am missing something. Would you be so kind as to enlighten me?
Some hard-core macro-photographers claim that macro can only be captured in-camera, cropping not allowed. Most of us are not quite so narrow-minded.

Had YOU cropped & posted your images as I did, no one would ever suspect the bees were shot as close-ups.
I defy anyone to discern the difference between captured macro and cropped-to-macro images.

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Jul 12, 2012 01:54:55   #
jmdenver Loc: Colorado
 
Nikonian72 wrote:
The best way to see true macro is to:
1.) turn-off Auto-Focus;
2.) adjust lens to closest focus, know as Minimum Focusing Distance (MFD);
3.) select photo mode (Aperture priority, Shutter priority, Manual);
4.) move entire camera/lens combo in-&-out toward subject, taking photo when image is in focus via eyepiece;
5.) note Working Distance (between lens front element & subject).
For a 90-mm lens on a Nikon body, WD is 135-mm = 5.3-inches. Any farther away is a close-up. MFD results in minimal DoF. I tend to shoot a bit farther back (better DoF), then crop to macro proportions. 10-inches will not capture a true macro image, but is crop-able; 24-inches is definitely too far away for macro.
The best way to see true macro is to: br 1.) turn-... (show quote)
That makes complete sense. Thank you for taking the time to explain the difference. What would be the benefit, if any, if I were to use a set of extension tubes with this 90mm lens? Would it enable me to work at an even closer MFD?

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Jul 12, 2012 04:29:51   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
jmdenver wrote:
What would be the benefit, if any, if I were to use a set of extension tubes with this 90mm lens? Would it enable me to work at an even closer MFD?
Extension tubes will reduce WD and increase magnification. Most often used with very small insects, like aphids, or isolating a dragonfly's head, etc. Unfortunately, DoF is also reduced.

P.S. - Macro-Photographers are more concerned with WD than MFD.

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Jul 12, 2012 06:22:28   #
skidooman Loc: Minnesota
 
Nikonian72 wrote:
I defy anyone to discern the difference between captured macro and cropped-to-macro images.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Jul 12, 2012 06:28:10   #
chelesphotography Loc: Greenville, NC
 
I enjoyed your explanation of macro. thanks everyone for the pictures and the explanation.

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Jul 13, 2012 05:56:55   #
Turbo Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
Great info on WD and MFD.

Does it mean that it is preferable to use a 180mm macro lens versus a 90mm or a 105mm ?

Both the WD and the MFD will be greater, so it will not scare away the insects.

I am looking at a 90 mm and a 105mm ( and possibly a 150 / 180 mm macro lens ). Not sure which one to pick yet.

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Jul 13, 2012 13:22:04   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
Turbo wrote:
Does it mean that it is preferable to use a 180mm macro lens versus a 90mm or a 105mm?
Both the WD and the MFD will be greater, so it will not scare away the insects.
I am looking at a 90 mm and a 105mm ( and possibly a 150 / 180 mm macro lens ). Not sure which one to pick yet.
With my Nikkor 105G macro lens, at MFD my WD is 158-mm = 6.2-inches to capture 1:1.
Minimal WD with a 180-mm macro is 270-mm = 10.6-inches to capture 1:1.
90-mm macro lens yields 135-mm WD = 5.3-inches to capture 1:1.

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