Best ways to shoot in the cold weather (Page 3): A couple of thoughts: Temperature: any manufacturer testing for published specifications will likely include a cold soak for several...

george19

A couple of thoughts:

Temperature: any manufacturer testing for published specifications will likely include a cold soak for several hours (hot soak for the other extreme) so the entire unit will be stabilized at some low temperature. For photo equipment, limitations will probably be batteries, displays, and lubricants for mechanisms. You can try to avoid or minimize effects by limiting exposure (pun intended) to the elements, protective gear, etc. I saw an article recently where the photographer attached chemical hand warmers to the cameras.

Condensation: cold air contains less moisture than warm air (for a given % humidity. Stabilizing in cold temperature above the spec limit is ok, but there should be no adverse effect going from warm to cold. The thoughts on using a plastic bag going from cold to warm are excellent.

tomad Loc: North Carolina

george19 wrote:

A couple of thoughts: br br Temperature: any manu... (show quote)

Yes, it's all about humidity. When you go from a dryer (outside when it's cold or inside when in hot weather using A/C) to a more humid environment is when you get condensation, which can happen inside the equipment as well as on the outside. I lived in the tropics for several years and now have a lens with mold on the inside of the front element because of frequently taking the camera from inside my air conditioned home outside into the tropical heat and humidity.

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

tomad wrote:

Yes, it's all about humidity. When you go from a dryer (outside when it's cold or inside when in hot weather using A/C) to a more humid environment is when you get condensation, which can happen inside the equipment as well as on the outside. I lived in the tropics for several years and now have a lens with mold on the inside of the front element because of frequently taking the camera from inside my air conditioned home outside into the tropical heat and humidity.

Then leaving the equipment out in the heat an humidity would stop this from happening.

FreddB Loc: PA - Delaware County

speters wrote:

Yes, I keep the battery/batteries under my jacket or in my pocket while shooting, that way they never get cold and loose oomph. The only time I'm concerned about moisture is, when I get back into the warmth, but I always have a zip lock bag handy that I place it in, before entering the building!

How about putting the whole kit into a cooler for the ride home and into the house - anyone tried that? How'do it work?

mborn Loc: Massachusetts

Dress in layers, keep your head covered, I leave my camera and equipment in the care and only bring in my Cards, Carry extra batteries and go enjoy

My winter suit
My winter suit...

NJphotodoc Loc: Now in the First State

Took all your advice but also bought an "Uncle Milty" photo vest to keep an extra lens and other goodies (fliters, battery) I may want to use close to me. Tried it out yesterday on a quick trip to a local wooded area (Ramapo Reserve in Bergen County for those of you in northern NJ). Was able to comfortably wear it under my coat and everyone was warm and happy.
Thanks to all for for great advice!

adamsg Loc: Chubbuck, ID

I was out in 10 to 20 deg. temperatures in Yellowstone in early January. I kept my camera under my zipped up parka when not shooting, as well as when returning to the snow coach. I kept a spare battery in a pocket next to my body. Battery time did shrink, but I had to make only one change during a day of shooting. I had no issues with condensation or fogging. Were it below Zero, I would have taken along a plastic bag to do as has been suggested elsewhere. If you ever get the opportunity to take a snow coach tour of Yellowstone in winter, TAKE IT! Reservations need to be made about 10 to 11 months in advance, but it is well worth it.

chevman Loc: Matthews, North Carolina

Gene51 wrote:

I was out in 15 degree weather for 4 hours. I did ... (show quote)

Gene, thanks for your reply, as this is a great tip and I always wondered how one get all that stuff in a plastic bag. Duh! I never thought of using a garbage bag. I don’t know why. I really like picture #2 in your series, that one really grabbed me and I would like to get to the point of being able to take shots like that. Thanks for sharing and thanks for the advice.

al13

Would you want to put rice in the plastic bag to absorb the moisture?

timcc Loc: Virginia

I was lucky enough to go to the South Pole some years ago. It was a balmy -50 degrees.

Took a small Sony P&S, which I put in a zip-lock bag before going inside (it was too cold to leave the camera outside overnight). It took quite a while to warm up to room temperature, but was ready to re-charge after about 4-5 hours.

Flew back to New Zealand in the back of a cold C-130, but made sure to bag the camera before disembarking into the NZ summer weather.

I'm told that waterproof bags sold in camping stores will also serve this purpose -- and are more durable than plastic bags.

iosa Loc: Fairbanks, AK

Typically, going from warm to cold isn’t an issue. Condensation happens when moving from cold to warm. I’ve even had this problem in a Southern summer: camera inside overnight in an air conditioned house, then everything fogged up when I went outside to shoot some portraits.

Here in Alaska, I’m pretty carefree about taking the camera outside in the winter. But I bring a padded camera bag out with me that I set on the ground, open. When I’m done shooting, I stuff the camera into the bag, seal it up, and then bring it inside to sit for hours. Overnight, if I can afford the time.

The key here is to warm the camera up as slowly as possible. Any insulated container will do. I’ve known people who stuff their cameras into small coolers, seal them up, and then bring them inside. A friend carries an extra parka to wrap around his camera. The ziplock back works, too, since it seals atmospheric moisture away from the camera as it warms.

Batteries will depend on mileage. In general, warm batteries have more energy than cold batteries. Most (all?) camera batteries are lithium, which are typically more cold tolerant than other types. I always keep a spare battery in a pocket of an inner layer, but I don’t generally need it. Just once, when I was outside shooting the start of the Iditarod in -20F temps for several hours.

hpucker99 Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

Manglesphoto wrote:

Thank you Jerry
Its not the Mississippi
scroll down

Its the Illnois

Do you ever get ice on the Mississippi down there in the winter?

alx Loc: NJ

FreddB wrote:

How about putting the whole kit into a cooler for the ride home and into the house - anyone tried that? How'do it work?

Just a thought... Since the purpose of a cooler is to keep what is inside cool, that would only lengthen the time for the equipment to warm to room temperature thus prolonging your wait. You'd be better off with the plastic wrap.

Talking about humidity and the effect on camera electronics, I once had an F2S (Nikon's first use of LEDs in the meter head) that would go dead when shooting on hot, humid summer days. Sent it in to Nikon for warranty repair. They said it checked out fine. Drove from NJ to Garden City Long Island on a steamy hot day. Took my camera back after grilling the techs who still insisted everything was fine. Went outside and walked around the building shooting blanks until the meter went dead. Stuffed it in a ziplock bag and went back into the dry, air-conditioned office and made them look at it sill in the bag. Walked out with a brand new replacement head. Humidity can do funny things.

Dalek Loc: Detroit, Miami, Goffstown

While you are shooting the frozen lakes, give ice fishing a try to help past the time while you are composing your next shot.
Ps I agree on warm weather photography.

Bike guy Loc: Atlanta

Ah yes, the problems with cold weather. When I retired we moved from Colorado to the Atlanta area. Suffice to say I miss Colorado for many reasons, not the least the beautiful scenery. But my Titanium knees were not longer liking cold and I couldn't fly fish safely anymore.
So now in GA, I do what did in CO in cold weather, thought the cold here is not as deep and long. When I could not fish in CO winters, I tied flies.
Now in Georgia, I do a lot of reading, studying and post processing (many pictures from my CO days) I sit on the deck on temperate days and practice using my cameras, especially birds in flight. Few more weeks and greenery will be back and I'll be out and about again. I also visit a lot more indoor museums, etc.
I tried ice-fishing years ago, no never again, and I was in my late 20's. There is a time, place and weather for all things. But I do feel your pain up North, grew up in Chicago!