67skylark27 Loc: Fort Atkinson, WI

I'm a bit baffled by the whole off camera flash setups.
What is the best bang for the buck? Figure two flashes
plus a transmitter? I don't need the newest latest and
greatest. Thanks much!

Wingpilot Loc: Wasilla. Ak

I can’t advise as to which remote flash units you should get, but your D7200 will trigger a remote flash(s), so you won’t need a transmitter.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Hopefully there is a decent camera store somewhere near you. I would suggest you go and speak with them. A REAL camera store, not a Best Buy! If that's not an option, try calling B&H. Best of luck.

bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana

I actually used a TON of Nikon brand flashes over the years, and trying to shoot weddings with fiddling with the Creative Lighting System (CLS) was a pain in the rear end. I'm actually using all Yongnuo flashes and the YN622N TX and YN 622N tranceievers. You can get 2-3 flashes for the cost of one Nikon brand flash. The YN-622 trigger system is much easier and actually I have had better luck with it, than the Pocket Wizard system. I am proof that it is idiot proof. If you go with the YN-685 flashes, you don't even need receivers. (I currently have one of those, I did have 2 until one fell in the river during a shoot) The good part about Yongnuo flashes is, if you happen to drop one, or someone actually walks off with one, yes, it happens at events, you don't go into the poor house replacing them. You just spend the $50-100 depending on the model, and move on. My stable includes everything from non-ttl through the 685, and about everything in between. I'm old school, so I rarely use TTL (old dog, new tricks, etc.) but the 685 is a beast, throws a TON of light, and works flawlessly, once you figure out the few tricks. One example, on my 685s, I kept sending them back assuming they didn't work. They don't like to trigger with the test button, so I thought they weren't linking. They also don't work on the very first press of the shutter, but after that, they worked flawlessly, every time. When setting up, I occasionally forget that, and it takes me a minute. I think that first press activates the connection or something. The transceivers don't have that issue. They just work, TTL or not, right out of the shoot. (as long as you have them on the correct channel)

3dees

I don't use flash much so I couldn't see spending 500-600 on one. I have two Neewer 565 flashes that work great with my D7200 and commander mode. 50.00 each and I'm pretty happy.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

There are many brands and configurations of off-camera or multiple flash systems to select from. If you are completing a purchase of such a system or augmenting your existing on-camera flash unit you should take into account some of your options in the ways theses systems function and also consider your own level of knowledge or experience in flash technique and lighting principles in general.

There are two very basic aspects of artificial photographic lighting; one is to provide a sufficient level of ILLUMINATION to to effect correct exposure of the film or sensor and the other is to address the AESTHETICS such as dimensionality, mood, contrast, shadow and highlight relationships and distribution of light over a given field.

A single on camera (unmodified) direct flash unit will supply sufficient light for correct exposure to a given subject at a given distance and will yield acceptable photographs, however, there are a number of aesthetic and technical disadvantages. The light is striking the subject at a NEARLY co-axial angle thereby negating any significant modeling. This is generally termed as “flat lighting” which lacks dimension and mood. The inverse square law tells us that the main subject of the image may be correctly exposed but objects or areas closer to the camera are usually overexposed and will appear too bright and lacking in detail and areas or objects in back of the main subject will usually remain underexposed and appear unnaturally dark. Oftentimes, and unwanted shadow of the subject is cast upon the wall or background. When the single light is modified, used indirectly (bounced off of other nearby surfaces or placed at an angle off the camera/subject axis or raised above the camera, SOME of theses issues can be somewhat remedied.

Adding a second (electronic flash) light which simultaneously synchronizes with the on camera light offers many interesting, effective, artistic and remedial flash techniques. Theses method can be applied to a wide variety of photographic areas and style and are especially effective in portraiture, fashion photography, still life and commercial photography, architectural interiors, press photography and photojournalism, wedding and event coverage, sports photography and more. The quality of the results will depend on the photographers knowledge of flash technique especially in the areas of lighting PLACEMENT in relation to the subject- angle, height, distance and finite adjustments.

A TWO flash system is a good starting point. If you are an old hand a flash work, just about any decent brand or MANUAL type will suffice in that you will to how to calculate the exposure by means of guide number and experience or the use of hand-held exposure meter that is designed for flash readings. The basic concept is that you on-camera light becomes the FILL light and the off camera light is the MAIN light source which determines the aesthetics. This can be learned but it requires some study, experimentation, testing and practice. If you prefer an AUTOMATIC or TTL dedicated to you camera you can't go wrong with the systems that are marketed and specifically designed for their cameras by the manufacturers of you camera system or an aftermarket system that is specifically dedicated your your cameras.

Automatic dedicate flash used to be fairly simple, however, nowadays it has become more sophisticated. A simple system will just trigger the off camera unit by means of radio frequency signal, sometimes an infrared device or photo-electric cell. Oftentimes the radio signal is generated by an external device (a transmitter and receiver) or an internal device in the flash units. Nowadays, many of theses “command systems” are intrinsic in the cameras so not only do they trigger the the remote flash or multiple flash units but they also transmit exposure data and thereby control the flash output of all the units in the system.

In a manual system YOU calculate the exposure and the LIGHTING RATIO, that is the difference of output between the camera light and the off camera light or lights, thereby controlling hte contrast and mood. In a fully automatic system, you still have final control but many of the exposure issued are calculated for you within the system- you need to master that system well.

You can use your off camera lighting system to augment available light , use in out of door situations and help light up larger interior areas more evenly. You can also bounce or add modifiers to both lights as well to soften the light quality and spread their patterns of coverage.

Most of the “SPEEDLIGHT” types of flash gear do no have MODELING LAMPS. Those are continuous lamps that are usually placed concentrically to the flash tube so that the photographer can per-determine the lighting effect that the flash will produce. If you have precise studio-like work in mind, you may be better off investing in mono-lights. You can, however, produce many great effects with speed-lights- again with practice and experience and getting the knack of lighting placement.

I hope this helps! As you progress, you may want to research and invest in a more versatile bracket and hot-shoe extension cord to suspend your on-camera flash about 12” above the lens both in vertical and horizontal orientations.

A tall (about 13' max.) light stand can help in position you light at various required heights.

67skylark27 Loc: Fort Atkinson, WI

What I'm envisioning is using them outdoors for night waterfall pics, lighting up the inside of vehicles, using them more
for effects than anything. I got the D7200 so I'd have commander mode vs my d5300 which doesn't have that.
So if I can get two units that I can put about 50 feet away in hidden locations and have my camere fire them in
commander mode I'd be set.

Can the Neewer 565's do that for me?

I'm also thinking I made do some long exposure shots and fire the flash right at the beginning or right at the end
of the exposure.

67skylark27 Loc: Fort Atkinson, WI

Thank you for this, I'll read it a couple more times and let it sink in!

BebuLamar

I always trigger off camera flashes using cable but I am wondering is there a generic radio flash trigger out there that is not designed for a particular brand of cameras? I just need a transmitter on the hot shoe and only with the center pin. When that pin is shorted to the shoe when the camera fires then it send out a signal to trigger several other flashes. I don't need any other type of controls like TTL etc...

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Commander mode uses the IR part of the spectrum from the pop-up flash to control the remotes.
They have to be line of sight...if you have them "hidden away" they may not see the signal.
I have used it in full sunlight successfully, and also have the Nikon SU-800 commander unit which works even better within limitations....but...
Personally, I would go with a radio equipped unit.
I think the Godox/Flashpoint units have the best value and most extensive system out there.
Built-in radio receivers and the transmitter will work with almost all their units, from speedlight to monolight.
I use manual almost all the time with remotes, but newest transmitter has the option to shoot TTL (on TTL equipped units) on the first pop, then transfer the power used to a manual setting.
That way, I'm really close the first time.
B&H
Adorama.
I just got the AD200 recently- has the power of 3 speedlights in a package not much bigger than one.

67skylark27 Loc: Fort Atkinson, WI

Sounds like I would need a trigger? Or will one work of my wireless mode in the camera?

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Your D7200 has only the infrared signal from the pop-up to control a flash that has a compatible receiver, like Nikon's SB600, 700, 800, 910....
There are other brands of flash which are compatible...looks for "Nikon CLS remote" capable.
The price for a new Godox flash and transmitter would be much less than any of the Nikon options above, and probably work better.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Ordinary radio slaves without data transfer etc.?

Yes! There are many such devices- check theses out: Pocket Wizard, Quantum (Q-Flash) Yongnuo and Paul C. Buff all manufacture basic radio flash trigger devices that consist of a basic transmitter and receiver that can be synchronized to the camera or operated manually (open flash etc.).

I also made a hard wire set up that is very inexpensive: I just used ordinary lamp cord and wired it to either a household type plug or an old hot shoe adapter (the male part) and wired a momentary contact micro -switch (push button) to the other end. I used a bicycle grip handle to house the switch. The wire can be as long a necessary. I found that continually shorting out the PC cord with a pen or some other metallic object, eventually causes the contacts to to break and malfunction. On some of my old units the trigger voltage is enough to give me an uncomfortable shock. My rule is if you poke at electronics with metal- they are gonna poke you back!

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Two SB-800's and this.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/dealZone.jsp?sku=1122741-REG&utm_medium=Email%201663340&utm_campaign=DealZone&utm_source=020118%20180131&utm_content=Retail&utm_term=deal-3

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

I will suggest you look at a radio based triggering system as they are much better than IR or corded connections. I will also recommend that you look at some of the YouTube videos by Mark Wallace and Robert Harrington on using flash. Harrington has several videos on using a single flash off camera with umbrellas, reflectors and other modifiers. It will give you ideas of what can be done with a single flash.

Best,
Todd Ferguson