alf85
Loc: Northumberland, UK.
Thank you very much for your comment.
Regards, Alfie.
I like what you are trying to do. I love shooting silhouettes, allowing the background to become secondary. I've been reading a lot lately (I'm still learning about digital photograph) about HDR, High Dynamic Range photography. I think you will have to take 3-5 bracketed exposures and merge them in photoshop or similar program. I could be off base here but if I am, I'm sure someone will let me know. If you have a longer lens, you might try using it, getting back from the branches a distance and using a small f stop. There won't be a huge hurry. The super moon occurs right after sunset and the eclipse will be total just before sunrise. You have all night to play around.
I don't think anybody's mentioned composites yet. If you're after the moon plus foreground it's not just exposure that's the problem - focus is too. Getting the moon maximally sharp and the foreground acceptably sharp isn't easy - unless you do a composite.
Excellent. Thank you so much.
1/200 f11 iso 200 tri pod, remote shutter or camera self timer are the best suggestions I have found.
Harvey
Set your camera on program and spot exposure. This setting nails it everytime for me.
Hello ,
I shot this at iso 200 f8 1/200 sec. using aSigma 120x400mm lens.
Two common problems come up with moon shots. First, the moon is moving fairly rapidly across the sky so a fast shutter speed is needed to freeze the motion, like at least 1/100th or faster. Second, your camera's light meter will see all the dark area around the moon and over expose the moon itself. So go less and less on the expsosure until your regain the detail and contrast in the moon that should be there, and the sky will be dark as it should be. An easy way to do that is to set your playback options to show Highlight Alert, or blinkies as it is commonly called. When the moon is overexposed, it will blink. Actually there is a 3rd problem and that is that you'll need to use a long enough lens to make the moon large enough in the frame. You can crop - but you'll still need the resulting image to be 2000 px or so wide for satisfactory resolution.
What was the focal distance and/or what lens did you use to get this close?
What was the focal distance? What lense did you use on you Nikon P900?
Sorry, Trying to erase post. Found your reply earlier. Can’t get rid of my redundant question
I believe the question was how to show detail in the moon AND to show some in the foreground trees as well. Someone earlier suggested layering two shots. Take a shot of the foreground with the settings needed to show some detail in the branches. Take another with the suggested settings for shooting a full moon. Layer them in Photoshop. You may need to mask and paint out the blown out moon so you see the detailed moon. You could do the layer branches detail with a flash but it may look weird. It would be worth experimenting with it.
lenzcap wrote:
Hello ,
I shot this at iso 200 f8 1/200 sec. using aSigma 120x400mm lens.
"That's no moon...."
- Obi Wan Kenobe
(Sorry -- I couldn't help myself...)
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.