That Gremlin, Camera Shake. What Do We Do?
Jan 4, 2018 12:27:32 #
My wife is new to photography and is beginning to learn about all the issues to keep track of when pressing the shutter. She has a good eye for composition ... probably better than me ... but the techniques are still in process.
I have attached two pictures, one by her and one by me, from our recent Fall Colors shoot. They were both taken of distant landscapes in the same area. She was using an Olympus E-PL1 with only a rear LCD, and I was using an Olympus E-M10 with a viewfinder.
She was relying on the camera stabilization system, and I had it on but never trust it. So, I was trying to be a human tripod, but she was not. And then that arch enemy, the shaking gremlin, brings his unsettling ways.
In her photo, though well composed, the softness is evident. In mine, I think a higher degree of clarity seems to be apparent. I doubt the difference in megapixels is relevant (only a difference of 4 mp). So, I assume it is the Gremlin.
How have you managed to solve stability issues when hand holding?
I have attached two pictures, one by her and one by me, from our recent Fall Colors shoot. They were both taken of distant landscapes in the same area. She was using an Olympus E-PL1 with only a rear LCD, and I was using an Olympus E-M10 with a viewfinder.
She was relying on the camera stabilization system, and I had it on but never trust it. So, I was trying to be a human tripod, but she was not. And then that arch enemy, the shaking gremlin, brings his unsettling ways.
In her photo, though well composed, the softness is evident. In mine, I think a higher degree of clarity seems to be apparent. I doubt the difference in megapixels is relevant (only a difference of 4 mp). So, I assume it is the Gremlin.
How have you managed to solve stability issues when hand holding?
Jan 4, 2018 12:37:08 #
Your - probably - going to get pages & pages of feedback on this question -- The simplest & least expensive solution to your issue is:
"Use A Real Tripod"
"Use A Real Tripod"
Jan 4, 2018 12:38:46 #
Is suspect a couple of things here...the Image Stabilization in the EM10 is a bit better than the EPL-1 as the EPL-1 is 4 years older, and they have come a long way in image stabilization in those years (even more so with the latest cameras). The other thing is that you had 3 points of physical stabilization (both hands and your face vs, just both hands). The top one was also shot at 42mm vs 14mm...when shooting at a telephoto lengths (although this isn't overly telephoto) the shakes can be more apparent. I'd recommend, if possible picking up an EM10ii or iii and handing over your em10 to the other person, and then retiring the epl-1
I own an EPM-2 and the IS within that camera, flat out sucks, in comparison to my old em1 and new EM1ii
I own an EPM-2 and the IS within that camera, flat out sucks, in comparison to my old em1 and new EM1ii
Jan 4, 2018 12:40:21 #
Hold the camera with both hands and the left hand supporting the bottom of the camera.
Tuck both elbows in tight to the body.
Stand well balanced with the left foot a little forward of the right.
That's all I have to offer.
p.s.
Don't hold the camera out in front of your face using the LCD screen, use the view finder.
Tuck both elbows in tight to the body.
Stand well balanced with the left foot a little forward of the right.
That's all I have to offer.
p.s.
Don't hold the camera out in front of your face using the LCD screen, use the view finder.
Jan 4, 2018 12:40:29 #
I know I can do 1/10 sec exposure and hold the camera acceptably still. http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-487910-1.html
Though I do have a couple of lenses that have VR features, I've been shooting for so long with out that, I forget and never use it.
The problem in your case is using an LCD camera which, by its nature, requires the camera to be held away from the photographer, sometimes at arm's length. That in itself is anything by stable.
--Bob
Though I do have a couple of lenses that have VR features, I've been shooting for so long with out that, I forget and never use it.
The problem in your case is using an LCD camera which, by its nature, requires the camera to be held away from the photographer, sometimes at arm's length. That in itself is anything by stable.
--Bob
m43rebel wrote:
My wife is new to photography and is beginning to ... (show quote)
Jan 4, 2018 12:41:08 #
#1 Use high shutter speeds
Your pic was shot at 1/800 and her pic was shot at 1/125 (Probably not good when holding a camera that is not jammed up against your face)
#2 When you cant use fast enough shutter speeds trust the image stabilisation sytem - I have an Olympus E-M5II and it is good.
#3 For very long expposures I use a tripod.
Your pic was shot at 1/800 and her pic was shot at 1/125 (Probably not good when holding a camera that is not jammed up against your face)
#2 When you cant use fast enough shutter speeds trust the image stabilisation sytem - I have an Olympus E-M5II and it is good.
#3 For very long expposures I use a tripod.
Jan 4, 2018 12:44:38 #
You can also, if not shooting action or moving object, set the antishock to 1/8s or 1/4s. I used to do this with my EM-1 and EPM-2 to get clearer images.
Jan 4, 2018 12:44:58 #
m43rebel wrote:
My wife is new to photography and is beginning to ... (show quote)
Come on now! She didn’t use the headache excuse with you, don’t you feel like the luckiest guy in the world? Why not reward her for putting up with you and get her an em1 mark2 along with the 12-100 f4 lens? Better yet, get a set for yourself as well and enjoy life. You can’t take it with you, at least leave behind some tack sharp pictures.
Both photos are very nice btw.
Welcome to the hog!!!!!
Jan 4, 2018 12:47:17 #
Gorgeous color!
I think using an eye-level finder is more stable than a rear LCD.
The IS in the EM-1 I had was amazing!
It worked really well for me, one of the things I miss.
I assume your EM-10 would be similar.
The rule of thumb for lowest shutter setting used to be 1/focal length for 35mm film cameras ie: full frame (some say twice the ff focal length).
So with micro 4/3rds, you would use the full-frame "crop factor" of 2, doubling your focal length.
Example: Using a 25mm lens on your Olympus, you would double it.. 25 x 2=50, so 1/50 sec would be your lowest shutter setting.
She was at 42mm so...42 x 2=84 or 1/80sec at a minimum....but with using the potentially less steady rear LCD, she should up it even more. 1/125th wasn't enough evidently.
Give her the EM-10 and get an upgrade!
This rule of thumb was before IS, VR or whatever the particular brand calls it and it was just a loose guide.
Some people aren't as steady as others.
I have a friend who was a sniper in the military who can hand-hold at amazingly long exposures.
I think using an eye-level finder is more stable than a rear LCD.
The IS in the EM-1 I had was amazing!
It worked really well for me, one of the things I miss.
I assume your EM-10 would be similar.
The rule of thumb for lowest shutter setting used to be 1/focal length for 35mm film cameras ie: full frame (some say twice the ff focal length).
So with micro 4/3rds, you would use the full-frame "crop factor" of 2, doubling your focal length.
Example: Using a 25mm lens on your Olympus, you would double it.. 25 x 2=50, so 1/50 sec would be your lowest shutter setting.
She was at 42mm so...42 x 2=84 or 1/80sec at a minimum....but with using the potentially less steady rear LCD, she should up it even more. 1/125th wasn't enough evidently.
Give her the EM-10 and get an upgrade!
This rule of thumb was before IS, VR or whatever the particular brand calls it and it was just a loose guide.
Some people aren't as steady as others.
I have a friend who was a sniper in the military who can hand-hold at amazingly long exposures.
Jan 4, 2018 12:47:39 #
m43rebel wrote:
My wife is new to photography and is beginning to ... (show quote)
Facial stabilization and bodypod ........
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-236741-1.html
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-269999-1.html
Jan 4, 2018 12:48:21 #
m43rebel wrote:
My wife is new to photography and is beginning to ... (show quote)
Practice breathing like a sniper, and caffeine . . . Tripod is also a good idea.
Keep in mind that magnification amplifies movement.
Jan 4, 2018 12:49:43 #
As others will tell you there is much involved in taking a photograph while holding the camera as steady as possible. Simply holding the camera steady and pushing the shutter slowly is one factor, VR or IS is another, practice is another factor while shutter speed itself is a big factor. How old are you and your wife? Age certainly has something to do with it as well. Take a look at these factors and try to practice pushing the shutter. We have all seen people who simply have to assault the shutter release button as if the faster the better is best. It isn't. Maybe pressing slow quickly is a good way to describe it.
Dennis
Dennis
Jan 4, 2018 12:51:12 #
Jan 4, 2018 12:52:12 #
RichardTaylor wrote:
#1 Use high shutter speeds
Your pic was shot at 1/800 and her pic was shot at 1/125 (Probably not good whenholding a camera thet is not jammed up against your face)
#2 When you cant use fast enough shutter speeds trust the image stabilisation sytem - I have an Olympus E-M5II and it is good.
#3 For very long exposures I use a tripod.
Your pic was shot at 1/800 and her pic was shot at 1/125 (Probably not good whenholding a camera thet is not jammed up against your face)
#2 When you cant use fast enough shutter speeds trust the image stabilisation sytem - I have an Olympus E-M5II and it is good.
#3 For very long exposures I use a tripod.
1) As above, your much faster of 1/800 shutter speed would cut shake of 1/125 by a factor of 6.4.
2) In addition, she was at 42mm which magnifies the image (and camera shake) you took at 14mm 3 TIMES.
3) If she held the camera so she could see the LCD screen as she shot, that is a poor position to stabilize a camera.
Jan 4, 2018 12:54:01 #
leftj
Loc: Texas
m43rebel wrote:
My wife is new to photography and is beginning to ... (show quote)
Hard to compare. Two different shots.
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