CWW Loc: North Jersey

Greetings and Happy New Year! I have a strong interest in learning portrait/event photography. My question is: which lighting to purchase to get started? I understand the concept of rf controlled speed lights. What is the purpose of a strobe light? Are speed lights and strobes used simultaneously from the same rf transmitter? What equipment do you folks use to get the effect you are looking for? My camera is a Sony A77 11 with a 24-70 G Zeiss lens. Any direction is truly apprecited.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

First off, I'd visit - http://strobist.blogspot.com That will get you started.

For studio work, I prefer studio strobes. They have modeling lights that give a pretty good idea as to what you can expect. When precise lighting is desired, that is pretty much the way to go. For activities/events camera mounted strobes work really well.
--Bob

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

CWW, I'm sure I'll get some flack but speed lights are to strobes, what real cameras are to toy cameras.
Yes, I use speedlights on occasion instead of strobes but every time I do, I wish I had strobes.
Portrait photography is ALL about modifiers. And it's just difficult to adapt modifiers to a speed light.
Yes, light is light but it's all about controlling the light.
There are some very inexpensive strobes, such as the Neewar or similar.
It's difficult to mimic a strobe if not using a bare-bulb. Some speedlights are bare-bulb, but at that cost, entry level strobes are available.
Also there are used strobes. My first set was $200. Included 3 lights, stands, backdrops, cords and more.
Yes, using Pocket Wizard you can radio trigger lights that are designed to do so(expensive).
You can also mix and match speedlights and strobes. I used my rf strobe to trigger my strobes when my 2 triggers stopped working in the same week!
If I travel by car I take strobes. If I fly I take 3 speedlights, but the modifiers and stands are still very cumbersome.
Everything you ask is possible. I suggest starting with used strobes if cost is an issue. Yes I use speedlights but frankly I hate it!!! LoL
SS

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Speed lights and strobe lights, in the context of photography, are essentially the same things: electronic flash. So long as they and the RF system have the same trigger voltage ratings, they will work.

But that’s only part of the story! The other things are color temperature, reflector type and size, light modifier type and size, the inverse-square law...

CWW Loc: North Jersey

Good advice, thanks!

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Please use the Quote Reply button instead of the Reply button. That way, we can understand the context of your reply, and to whom you are answering.

CWW Loc: North Jersey

Got it, thanks

MichaelH Loc: NorCal via Lansing, MI

Did you swap the order of your recommendation in your first sentence? You seem to be recommending strobes yet compare them to toy cameras if I read the rest of your post correctly.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

I use both strobes or speedlights depending on the job.
For work in the studio, I have several Bowens A/C powered monolights.
As SS said, they are great for adding modifiers.
There is more power available with almost instantaneous recycling and you have a modeling light. Also good for shooting in a location situation where you stay relatively static, like a lot of group shots.

For location "gun and run" or smaller jobs, I use speedlights with radio triggers.
I hardly ever have an assistant and after 3 hernia surgeries (thank you Speedotron), anything to lighten my load is a plus. There are speedlight adapters that allow me to use almost all my Bowens modifiers (not really enough power for the biggest softboxes). I haven't missed the lack of a modeling light.

Lately, I've been exploring Godox lighting equipment. (also sold by Adorama under the FlashPoint label) The ones I use have built-in receivers and they offer battery and/or AC powered monolights. One recent purchase is the Evolv-AD 200, a speedlight-sized 200ws unit with interchangeable heads, one a bare-bulb that works great in softboxes and reflectors. Gives you 500 full power flashes in one battery. There is an adapter that will hold 2 of the blocks giving you 400w/s and it adds 2 LED modeling lights, though "focusing" would be a better word.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Speedlights are typically on-camera flash units. Strobes are typically studio flash systems. Studio flash comes in two main form factors: Monolights, where each head is power supply, triggering system, and flash head, or Medusas, which connect a central power pack to several "dumb" flash heads, via thick, snake-like cables. The former may be more versatile, but the latter are generally heavier duty. Both systems have their merits.

You can learn a LOT about flash from various manufacturers and marketers of them. B&H and Adorama have lots of educational materials on their web sites, too.

I would check out resources at:

https://westcottu.com
http://www.dynalite.com/in-the-news/photography-studio-equipment-for-beginners-presented-by-the-slanted-lens/
https://www.paulcbuff.com/Studio-Flash-Explained.html
http://www.smithvictor.com/reference/lightingguide.asp?s1=Lighting+Guide
http://normanlights.com/applications.asp
http://www.speedotron.com/resource/links
http://www.qtm.com/index.php/learn/lessons-tutorials
http://www.radiopopper.com
http://www.photoflex.com/lessons/

That should keep you busy and get you started!

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Never heard of them described as "Medusas" but it's a fitting term!

CWW Loc: North Jersey

I appreciate your reply, lot's to digest. So the picture I'm getting is strobes for studio, speed lights for remote. For studio strobes, best to have both battery and A/C power. As per your recommendation, I'll take a look at GODOX. There are so many combinations, makes my head spin.

CWW Loc: North Jersey

I will review all the links that you sent. Much appreciated!

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

For studio, all I use is AC.
For location work, at least the stuff I shoot, it's nice to have a battery option, especially when shooting outside.

Others will have different requirements and recommendations.
It would be boring if we didn't differ in our opinions!

Godox is a pretty new brand, but a very extensive line.
They have a new "TCM" equipped transmitter where you shoot in TTL for your first shot, then using the TCM (TTL Convert Manual) button, the power levels used are converted to manual levels for tweaking and more consistent output. I rarely use TTL for location shoots with multiple lights, but reviews are good for this feature.
Gets you really close on the first try.
I don't have that $70 transmitter yet, but hope to soon.

I've heard to buy from Adorama (Flashpoint) or B&H for the Godox brand, rather than ebay or Amazon. Those two should back you up if anything goes wrong.
Check youTube for reviews.
FaceBook has a Godox AD 200 dedicated page "myAD200", which you'll have to join to view.
I also recommend the FB group: Learn to Light.

Photography is about light and learning to control it is an on-going thing.
Joe McNally and Neil van Niekerk have sites you should explore along with the previously recommended Strobist website.
Good luck!

dkguill Loc: Elkhart, IN

In the studio, either for commercial product photography or portraiture, I have always used strobes. Modifiers are certainly an important component in controlling the light produced by your strobes. I started out using umbrellas and then graduated to soft boxes. My preference is the soft box because of the degree of light control afforded. Using umbrellas, you can opt to shoot through a white translucent fabric or reflect the light off of the inside of the umbrella back at your subject. With soft boxes, you can choose to diffuse the light using one or more layers of translucent fabric in addition to having the option to use bare bulbs for certain effects. I rarely resort to bare bulbs. If you read tutorials on the Internet, you can find many techniques for adjusting soft boxes or umbrellas including the feathering technique that most portrait photographers use. The size of the umbrella or soft box makes a tremendous difference in your ability to distribute the light evenly and to control the degree of softness. How you position your lights with regard to your subject is critical. The closer you can place the diffused light to your subject, the softer the light. Greater distance from the subject increases harshness. The best reason I can think of for spending a little more money on good strobes vs cheaper models is to increase the range or power of those units. The power is normally referred to in Watt Seconds and the greater the Watt seconds, the greater the range of power you have at your disposal. I recommend main lights at 640 WS or more, and some accent lights having at least 320 WS. While you can actually start out with one or two strobes, I recommend a minimum of three for a studio setup. I do use speed lights on and off camera in mobile situations where lugging strobes and power supply is not practical. I have worked with photographers who use speed lights and smaller soft box accessories. Some have soft boxes that accommodate two speed lights in each box. I have not used these and have no opinion of the results except to say that I haven't heard loud complaints. My use of speed lights is mostly limited to providing fill light in outdoor situations, so referring to someone who uses them more extensively would provide better ideas for you. You don't have to spend a ton of money on strobes. Good professional results can be achieved with new or used units having the desired specifications for a few hundred dollars each. Good reliable units like Alien Bees are affordable. See https://www.paulcbuff.com/Flash-Units/ for examples. RF transmitters are nice and I use them extensively, however, don't forget that most good strobes can be hardwired from your camera for studio use. If you are working in your studio by yourself, the practical and cheaper answer may just be IR units like those from Wein for example. We all have our favorites and firm opinions, so UHH members are certain to give you excellent advice from their extensive experience.