augieg27 Loc: Central California

I have reviewed all past discussions on this topic but haven't found an answer to my perhaps simple question:
First of all, I am new to photography, I use a Nikon 3300 and Nikon 18-200mm zoom and Nikon 50mm prime.
My question is how to use the distance scale? Is it use only in the manual mode? Or what is it best use?
Thank you for your always great answers.
Augie

Acufine3200 Loc: Texarkana USA

Here’s a link to good overview that includes additional links. Personally I don’t use the scales much since moving to digital, and I don’t do much close-up work. In theold days with film I used the scales mostly for depth of field purposes. Have fun learning!

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2326960

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

Both manual and auto, though many people never use it at all. In manual, you can set the focus on a distance either to prefocus a planned shot or perhaps to fine-focus something hard to focus. (Some systems don't know what to do when you point at the moon or fireworks--a scale lets you set it on infinity.) If your model has stopped-down preview button, you can check depth of field at different focus distances (how much of the view is in focus from foreground to background--this will vary with distance as well as f-stop). Some lenses have a scale showing depth of field at different f-stops for a given distance, which is mainly used in manual mode. In auto you might want to use the lens to see how far away something is--a scale on the lens would tell you this if you press the shutter button halfway. One reason for this might be to see if your flash will reach the subject as well as you want.

In landscapes, where you might want everything sharp from front to back, you can't rely on autofocus to do that unless you have experience with that aspect, but you can calculate this using a depth of field chart (online). If I can set f16, the chart will tell me what distance to focus on in order to get the depth of field for a particular lens focal length, f-stop, and distance--for instance, it might show acceptable sharpness from 20 feet to infinity if I set a particular distance, so I can take care that nothing closer than 20 feet is in the picture. (Standing on something such as a rock or truck bed might help with that.) Depth of field in the picture is affected by these controls: distance to subject; lens aperture used; focal length of the lens; format (size of the film or sensor); degree of enlargement in the photo image or print; distance from which the photo is seen (billboard?) All of these might enter in if you have very exacting requirements, but many people only make use of some of the controls for most work.

One reason it has become popular to use "selective focus" so much today is that with digital photography and auto-focus lenses that adjust for distance, photographers have largely given up on trying to make everything in the picture sharp--and their customers and other viewers have become used to this style. Only the main attraction in the picture is meant to be sharp. I don't think we should limit ourselves to highly selective focus. It is just one option we have. We should also learn how to achieve maximum sharpness as well, though this is not always possible for the situation at hand. If you print out a copy of a depth of field chart for your camera format, showing various focal lengths and distances, you may find it useful in getting the results you want--the scale on your lens will let you measure distances within your picture.

Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset

Sorry to jumping in, but you not only helped Augie, but me and a lot of others too, as it is something that I battle to understand.

Thanks especially for your last paragraph and I will go and try to find a depth of field chart for my camera Pentax K50.

Heather

Acufine3200 Loc: Texarkana USA

Great reply, Charles! I tried twice to write an explanation, but could not find a way to be as concise yours. Good job.

Norm.P Loc: Northeast, UK

there are a few apps in Google store for depth of field etc.I use HyperFocal

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

And another less aesthetic more technical reason today for the move to selective or shallow DoF is at f/16, f/22, f/32 you may experience Diffraction. Diffraction negating the advantages in part of today's high resolution, high pixel count Sensors. Unlike in my film days, I usually stay with Stops less than f/13.

On your post Charles. Many lenses have no stops marked on the lens so the distance scale is pretty worthless too since all the data is shown on the camera body. Personally I like my older vintage lenses with real click spots and even a red IR focus scale mark.

Good answer though Charles!

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

As a rule I don't use the distance scale, but one of my lenses doesn't have one and I miss it for some reason.

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

One more point--be sure to get a depth of field chart for your camera size--your Pentax 50 is APS-C, a popular sensor size. The chart would be different for a full frame (35mm size) camera.

augieg27 Loc: Central California

Thank you all. Your answers led me to believe that in essence the distance scale is basically used in manual mode, otherwise is not very useful.
Am I wrong?

Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset

Thanks for the information.

BebuLamar

I have a question regarding the distance scale. Does the distance scale indicate distance from subject to film plane (sensor plane) or distance from subject to front nodal plane or what else?

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

The difference is not enough to calibrate on the scale, but it should be film/sensor to subject plane of focus.

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

No wait--some macro or micro lenses may have very minute register of very close distances.

carl hervol Loc: jacksonville florida

Been shooting for 55 years never used it to me its a waste of time .