cthahn

There is no such cheat sheet. It all depends on the knowledge of the photographer. You need to take some classes in basic photography.

repleo Loc: Boston

I doubt that the 1/focal length or 1/focal length * crop factor recommendation would hold up for the ultra wide angle lenses available today. That would let me shoot my 12mm (crop) at 1/16 second without IS. I have never tried it that low and I certainly wouldn't suggest it as a minimum safe shutter speed.

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

It's different for every person on the planet. For goodness sake, take the camera out and Try for yourself. Photography is about 90% hands on technic.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

I would add for your consideration to 1/focal length any crop factor the camera may have as that crop factor narrows the field of view. 1/focal length I consider to be a minimum shutter speed with no VR or IS. So, for a Nikon Dx the crop factor would be 1.5 and the the math would give 400 x 1.5 or 600. So, I would shoot at 1/640 as an ideal minimum.

The other consideration is whether the subject is moving, how fast it is moving and how it is moving relative to the focal plane and camera sensor. I shoot trains locally that are moving 50-70 mph coming toward or going away from me. I generally try to shoot at 1/2000 even with my 24-70. If I am shooting with the subject nearly parallel to the sensor, such as at the drag races sometimes the subject is moving across the sensor's view even faster than if shooting a 3/4 view of the subject. It is not that hard to do the math to determine how far the subject traveling 60mph travels in the time the the shutter is open 1/60, 1/500, 1/1000 or 1/2000 second. But the amount might surprise you. Stationary or slow moving subjects are easy, as defined in the paragraph above.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

You don't need no fricking cheat sheet. This is all you need to know, your MINIMUM SHUTTER SPEED for any lens is 1/focal length of the lens. ie. 50 mm lens, 1/50 sec. 1000mm lens, 1/1000 sec. Now, that's not so bad is it.
Remember, this is a starting point, many folks double or triple it just to make sure.
And it will depend on what you are shooting and what effect you want. When I shoot birds in flight my minimum shutter speed is 1/2500 sec. If I want to blur action, I might pan with the subject at 1/60 sec or slower. Depends some times.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Exactly! There are minimum shutter speeds for subjects that exceed the rule. For birds in flight, I try to be as close to 1/1600 as conditions will allow. Most sporting events 1/1000 (I do not shoot motor cross or car racing which might require higher speeds) Indoor or other low light sporting events, sometimes as low as 1/650 due to lighting constraints (but the high ISO performance of the latest cameras are changing that as well)

danoliver Loc: South Central Kentucky

While on this topic: When using tripod with 18-300 lens and D500, is there any rules that apply to focal length and shutter speed. Thanks in advance.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Same rules as I laid out earlier. If you don't stop motion, whether in the subject or in the camera/tripod itself I my opinion you will end up with an entirely out of focus Shot that is virtually worthless... it is all about finding the best, or at least acceptable, balance of shutter speed, aperture, Light and ISO that can get the shot you desire.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Unless you are deliberately dragging the shutter.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Make sure, if you are using a tripod, that you turn off your VR on the lens. As far as rules if your camera is on a tripod, I am assuming you want your shots as sharp as possible. So, if it were me I would shoot at least 1/30 sec. unless I was trying to blur water movement. My aperture would be around f8. That should give you good sharpness. If your a purist you may also want to lock up your mirror to eliminate all possibility of camera vibration. Personally I only use a tripod if I am blurring water, I then go to a 30 second exposure. Otherwise, a tripod it too confining for me.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Yes Sir...that is what I would put under the effect you are after part of the equation. I do shoot panned shots of trains and race cars sometimes. That takes some real practice to get good shots of race cars in my experience. Lots of near misses and large misses for each good shot with race cars.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

danoliver Loc: South Central Kentucky

Thanks billnikon. Turned 71 and having problems shaking camera when releasing shutter handheld and probably on tripod. just got a wireless shutter release yesterday to see it that helps. Thanks again.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

I saw an interesting YouTube video last week talking about ND filters by IIRC Tony Northrop. He showed a technique where instead of using a ND filter he took like 10 shots at IIRC normal exposure and merged them together in Photoshop to a final image. I believe he was shooting at ISO 100 and he said using the 10 shots he ended up with a better result than using the ND filter and an equivalent ISO of like 10. I will have to look for it again, but has anyone ever tried to do that. or can you explain the theory behind that method for me.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Canon provides software with their camera that can be used to control your camera tethered to your laptop. You can have pretty much full control over the settings of the camera. It is free from Canon and usually included with your camera or can be downloaded from the Canon website. You can also shoot Lightroom tethered to your camera. I also have a CamRanger which can do all that plus other stuff and can do it wirelessly. I am sure there are other programs and brands that can do this all too...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

John_F Loc: Minneapolis, MN

The 1/f rule came out of the sunny 16 rule. For lesser lightings is was for larger apertures.