Cityscape focus (Page 3): First, when you upload an image for us to help evaluate, always check the little (store original) check box. It allows us to see the image up close and zoom...

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

First, when you upload an image for us to help evaluate, always check the little (store original) check box. It allows us to see the image up close and zoom in 1:1.

Second, if you are new to photography, try using a tripod. Keep your ISO as low as possible, use a CP filter on landscapes, and experiment with the f/stop of your lens. Each lens has a sweet spot where your images will be the sharpest especially from the center to the edges. Next, if shooting raw, which I believe you said you were shooting, remember to ALWAYS uses sharpening on ALL raw images. The raw images all need some post processing including a little more contrast, saturation, sharpening etc.

alfeng Loc: Out where the West commences ...

selmslie wrote:

You might want to look into some of the newer affordable f/1.8 prime lenses. The f/2.8 versions cost about half as much and are almost as good.

Since you have a Nikon camera body, rather than buying a "newer affordable f/1.8 prime lens" you might ALSO consider an older, manual-everything Nikkor AI lens of the focal length(s) you want to use ...

In other words, "Why pay for autofocus/etc. if you are going to manually focus the camera?"

THAT WAY, you can ensure that what you want to be in focus will be what you choose.

BTW. While there are certainly many good non-Nikkor/non-Nikon lenses, my recommendation is that ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES on the lens brand!

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

alfeng wrote:

Since you have a Nikon camera body, rather than bu... (show quote)

That's a valid point. The need autofocus goes down as the focal length gets shorter. The older manual focus Nikon lenses are very good, rugged and they are a bargain.

It's only recently that non-Nikon lenses have caught up with Nikon and the best of them are also manual focus.

Madman Loc: Gulf Coast, Florida USA

GLKTN wrote:

I took skyline photos of Nashville around noon. ISO200 f16 @1/250 - 1/350. Nikon d750 at 28 mm. Sunny wb. I auto focused on a building and also tried manual focus. Lesn was nikon 24-120 mm. When I zoom in in post the buldings are not real sharp. Is heat causing a problem? Not sure where to focus. It was a long shot from Love Circle for anyone who may know the location. Pretty long shots.

I haven't seen where you described the focus mode that you were using. For shots like the example that you posted I would use single spot on the building in the center to avoid having the camera choose to focus on the trees that are closer. Single shot also - no need for continuous. Definitely use a tripod with a remote release.

You may wish to compare against my downtown Tampa shots posted yesterday. All taken with a D7100, Nikon 18-105, CPL during daylight and mounted to a lightweight tripod and triggered remotely.

If you have questions, PM me.

Madman Loc: Gulf Coast, Florida USA

GLKTN wrote:

The only thing I could focus on were the trees about 50 yards, or less, in front of me.

This should not be - makes me think that your AF is set up for more than one focus zone which will cause the problem that you describe. The proof of that is if you look carefully at your image and the trees are sharper than the building.

ecurb1105

GLKTN wrote:

I took skyline photos of Nashville around noon. ISO200 f16 @1/250 - 1/350. Nikon d750 at 28 mm. Sunny wb. I auto focused on a building and also tried manual focus. Lesn was nikon 24-120 mm. When I zoom in in post the buldings are not real sharp. Is heat causing a problem? Not sure where to focus. It was a long shot from Love Circle for anyone who may know the location. Pretty long shots.

Well there's atmospheric haze, heat haze, mirror bounce or you may just be enlargeing the image beyond its limits.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

ecurb1105 wrote:

Well there's atmospheric haze, heat haze, mirror bounce or you may just be enlargeing the image beyond its limits.

Yes, remembering that there are only so many pixels in an image, and at best, apart from haze, heat issues, etc, that is all the detail we're going to get. The image provided here is just a thumbnail, because "(store original)" wasn't checked, but from what I can see, this may be the best current technology can provide.

papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA

It would help to attach and check the STORE box, so it could be downloaded for observation. As it is, if your camera focused on a distant building, then it's most likely in focus. If you're lacking experience in the softening effect of aerial on distant shots, then here's what I wonder; did you dehaze in the post processing??? P.S. At 120mm your lens' sweet spot is f/5.6. Pivot around that always. Diffraction softening already starts at f/8, but by f/11 you'll have a lot.