Wall Mounting systems (Page 2): My last presentation, I mounted, mostly 16x24 on black foam-core. You can decide how much border you want. Then used hot-melt glue to attach 1 ft.

Reinaldokool Loc: San Rafael, CA

Tikva wrote:

I am printing off a number of photos myself (bought a Canon Pro-10). I want to put them on some kind of backing and then wall mount them without a frame. I print to the edge of the paper with no borders. Has anyone done this themselves? And if so, what did you use as a backing for the photo and wall mounting system? Or, should I just take this to my local frame shop and see what they have to offer? I would prefer to have this without frames.

My last presentation, I mounted, mostly 16x24 on black foam-core. You can decide how much border you want. Then used hot-melt glue to attach 1 ft. lengths of 1x1 to the back. Screwed in those jaggy nail holders to the top board. (Could have put hanging wire across, but the show folk wanted the jaggies.) Foam core is really great. Cheap. Weighs almost nothing. Easy to handle. The one-inch pieces hold the pix away from the way a little. Makes for a more interesting display.

DerexArt Loc: NYC Metro

Tikva, I mounted an large exhibit by attaching these tiny metal Kwik hangers into the back of the foam board mounts:

https://framingsupplies-shop.com/hardware/kwik-hangers

Good luck!

David

PGHphoto Loc: Pittsburgh, PA

Tikva wrote:

I am printing off a number of photos myself (bought a Canon Pro-10). I want to put them on some kind of backing and then wall mount them without a frame. I print to the edge of the paper with no borders. Has anyone done this themselves? And if so, what did you use as a backing for the photo and wall mounting system? Or, should I just take this to my local frame shop and see what they have to offer? I would prefer to have this without frames.

I mount my prints on foamcore with spray adhesive and attach to a 1x1 frame i make from scrap wood. The frame which is glued to the back of the foamcore uses simple butt joints and is 1 to 1.5 inches smaller than the foamcore. I attach a hanging wire by screwing small eyelets into the inside of the frame. When hanging, the mounted photo appears to be floating slightly away from the wall.

If hung in an area that will be approached from the side, you can paint the frame to match the wall color and it becomes virtually invisible - or - stain the wood frame to match the woodwork in the room. I like to leave a little border on the photo but works well without the border too. Here is an example that is from a stairway. Sorry for the poor quality - shooting with cell phone.

SuperFly48 Loc: NE ILLINOIS

Gatorboard works well, I have had several prints mounted professionally on it. I prefer frameless mounting for my personal use. I have also had some prints mounted professionally on .08" styrene which is obviously thinner than gatorboard yet denser. I now prefer the styrene for prints that are 12" X 18" or smaller, and it is less expensive compared to gatorboard.

aellman Loc: Boston MA

chasgroh wrote:

"Leveling" on a wall surface is fraught ... (show quote)

With a nod to your years of experience, what happens in an old house where there are no 90 degree angles?
Eyeballing is the only solution. Isn't the goal for the frame to LOOK level, not necessarily BE level? >Alan

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

That was the point of his comment wasn't it? If the picture's top edge is even with the line made by the ceiling and wall it looks level but,"it ain't necessarily so".

aellman wrote:

With a nod to your years of experience, what happens in an old house where there are no 90 degree angles?
Eyeballing is the only solution. Isn't the goal for the frame to LOOK level, not necessarily BE level? >Alan

aellman Loc: Boston MA

Rich1939 wrote:

That was the point of his comment wasn't it? If the picture's top edge is even with the line made by the ceiling and wall it looks level but,"it ain't necessarily so".

Not really. His emphasis was on measuring. Mine was on eyeballing.

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

aellman wrote:

Not really. His emphasis was on measuring. Mine was on eyeballing.

Weather you use your eyes to measure or a tape, his point is still valid. This (in my words) is that to look level the picture must align with other visual references in the room. The most prominent is usually the ceiling line. Not to use a level of any sort was his main point wasn’t it?

aellman Loc: Boston MA

Rich1939 wrote:

Weather you use your eyes to measure or a tape, his point is still valid. This (in my words) is that to look level the picture must align with other visual references in the room. The most prominent is usually the ceiling line. Not to use a level of any sort was his main point wasn’t it?

Obviously two people can read the same thing and come away with different messages.

Tikva Loc: Waukesha, WI

I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. I now have plenty of ideas, I just have to try one or more of them.

Tikva Loc: Waukesha, WI

DerexArt wrote:

Tikva, I mounted an large exhibit by attaching these tiny metal Kwik hangers into the back of the foam board mounts:

https://framingsupplies-shop.com/hardware/kwik-hangers

Good luck!

David

Thanks. If I decide to go with foam board I'll definitely look into these. I just can't decide if I want to mount them myself or not. Not sure I can keep everything straight. I am looking at hanging small (5x7) pictures and I don't know how to cut the boards myself so that they are square.

BlackRipleyDog

My preferred product for adhering a print to a substrate is with the 3M Repositionable Roll Adhesive. You first lay the print down on a section of it, apply pressure with a squeegie and the supplied protective wax sheet. The adhesive activates and sticks to the back of the print. Peel it up carefully as it releases from the roll paper. Inspect for any voids on the back and touch-up by either more roll adhesive or spray. Position on your substrate and use the squeegie and wax sheet again working outward from the center pushing out any air or wrinkles. The adhesive is activated and forms a real nice seal. I then apply a fine-art spray from Hannumeule to top-seal it especially when printing on cotton based papers that are not under glazing.