Lighting Problem: I just figured out how to trigger my Westcott Stobelight and now I'm really confused. First, I was extremely underexposed using just a strobe with shutter speed at...

Golden Rule Loc: Washington State

I just figured out how to trigger my Westcott Stobelight and now I'm really confused. First, I was extremely underexposed using just a strobe with shutter speed at 125, f8, ISO 100. The photo was completely black so I added two soft boxes for ambient light so I could get an exposure reading of 80, f2.8, ISO 320. I thought the strobe would add some light so I could increase my aperture and keep the ISO at 100 or so. What am I doing wrong? I watched some youtubes and the presenter was in total darkness shooting at higher shutter, aperture and lower ISO. This has got to be user confusion. The strobe is camera right and maybe 3 1/2 feet from dog on full power. I actually thought the dog would be blown out but nothing happened at all.

Two softboxes each side without strobe going off

(Download)

Two softboxes each side with strobe

(Download)

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Long suffering dog here.

papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA

Looks like either your strobes didn't fire or camera shutter is not synced.

Golden Rule Loc: Washington State

Rongnongno wrote:

Long suffering dog here.

Ha! He's a patient model but he just ate his breakfast and needs a nap. This is a good time to try to get this strobe light figured out.

Golden Rule Loc: Washington State

papa wrote:

Looks like either your strobes didn't fire or camera shutter is not synced.

I am using the Command mode from my camera and set the TTL on. Should I put it in Manual? I see a light flash from the strobe when I take my shot so I assumed it was working?

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Golden Rule wrote:

I am using the Command mode from my camera and set the TTL on. Should I put it in Manual? I see a light flash from the strobe when I take my shot so I assumed it was working?

Sounds like the Westcott flash is seeing the pre-flash from
your pop-up and firing before the shutter is opening.
Do you mean "Commander" mode (are you using a Nikon?)
The Westcott is not part of the Nikon CLS system, so all you can do is use the pop-up as a trigger. .
Set the pop-up on manual, lowest power so it does not contribute to the exposure. That should also turn off the pre-flash that's giving you grief.
Even though I can use TTL with my
Nikon flashes, I almost always use manual for off camera flash.
It's more consistent.

Golden Rule Loc: Washington State

GoofyNewfie wrote:

Sounds like the Westcott flash is seeing the pre-... (show quote)

I have a Nikon D750. Using Commander mode with my camera flash turned off but I do have it popped open to communicate with the Westcott and Group A on TTL. The Westcott is firing but no lighting on my subject.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Golden Rule wrote:

I have a Nikon D750. Using Commander mode with my camera flash turned off but I do have it popped open to communicate with the Westcott and Group A on TTL. The Westcott is firing but no lighting on my subject.

As I said, set the pop- up on low power manual.

Forget about TTL, it won't, and didn't work with your Westcott.
The "Commander" with group modes work only with Nikon's CLS (Creative Lighting System) capable flashes and other 3rd party flashes with that feature. The preflash coming from the pop-up in commander mode is used to set the power for the remote CLS capable flashes and that's what's prematurely firing your Westcott.

More on the CLS system here: https://photographylife.com/beginners-guide-to-nikon-creative-lighting-system

Golden Rule Loc: Washington State

GoofyNewfie wrote:

As I said, set the pop- up on low power manual. br... (show quote)

Thanks, got it. Good article too.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Golden Rule wrote:

Thanks, got it. Good article too.

Great!
Show us what you wind up with.
Cute dog!

If the pop-up on the lowest power still contributes to the exposure, you can use an SG-3IR panel to allow only infrared light to pass. Almost all optical triggers use IR.
My advice: get a good radio remote.
The less expensive ones most likely won't sync at the normal listed sync setting of 1/200th sec. on your camera. Of course, if you're inside, that's probably not going to be an issue.
Compared to optical, there are hardly any limitations with radio.

dat2ra Loc: Sacramento

Yes, as a Nikon shooter, I agree with GN. What you see as your strobe 'firing" is probably not synced with your camera. It looks like it is, but remember, we are talking about a fraction of a second here, so communication matters. My guess is that if you set your camera at f8 at 1/250 at an ISO of 200 you should get something useful. If not, the flash and camera are not talking the same language.

Golden Rule Loc: Washington State

Thank you so much for your help. I kept thinking of how can I make this strobe light up my subject and what was I doing wrong. I already had planned on getting perhaps a wireless control so it will be sooner than later.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Golden Rule wrote:

Thank you so much for your help. I kept thinking of how can I make this strobe light up my subject and what was I doing wrong. I already had planned on getting perhaps a wireless control so it will be sooner than later.

The least expensive RF wireless system with TTL I have found to be reliable is the one made by Yongnuo.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1193861-REG/yongnuo_yn622n_ii_i_ttl_transceiver_yn622n_for.html

And this if you would like to add a hot shoe mounted controller and bypass the in camera settings

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1086002-REG/yongnuo_yn_622n_tx_i_ttl_wireless_flash.html

With two external flash units you will either need three transceivers, or 2 transceivers and a controller if you wan to bypass the camera to set the flash levels.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Indoors a good starting point would be 1/125, f/5.6 at ISO 200. That generally will eliminate all ambient light and you will be shooting with strobe light only. Adjust ambient light levels from there.

I agree that your flash is not firing at the correct time as others have stated.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Brent Rowlett Loc: Atlanta, GA

Golden Rule wrote:

I just figured out how to trigger my Westcott Stob... (show quote)

First, why are you trying to use ISO 100 with indoor conditions? Use ISO 400 or 800 to give you a few f stops to play with creating more detail with smaller apertures.

Second, I always laugh at people trying to take the easy way out with TTL exposure without really learning how to set up and meter shots manually. In other words, really learning your camera and how to light a set or subject properly, rather than depend upon some gimmick to do things automatically. If you invest in a good light meter and a couple of Pocket Wizzard triggers, you can use any old light system or combinations of lights to produce good results.

Third, why are you using split lighting on a pet? Very poor choice of trying to cast a shadow down the middle of the pet. I see absolutely no value in doing that. Use one light, or a 4:1 portrait ratio with two lights, and a light meter...problem solved.