Hand Held Lightmeters with various MM lenses
Jun 27, 2012 08:54:16 #
I still shoot only film and have a variety of 35mm and medium format cameras (now mostly vintage I guess) that do not have built in light meters. I use a hand held light meter but I was wondering if there was some "fudge factor" I should be applying when I add more glass (go from 35 mm to 100 mm or longer) since the added optics would require more light.
Thanks for the insight!
Thanks for the insight!
Jun 27, 2012 10:51:12 #
Schoster wrote:
I still shoot only film and have a variety of 35mm and medium format cameras (now mostly vintage I guess) that do not have built in light meters. I use a hand held light meter but I was wondering if there was some "fudge factor" I should be applying when I add more glass (go from 35 mm to 100 mm or longer) since the added optics would require more light.
Thanks for the insight!
Thanks for the insight!
My film cameras are all collecting dust. Kinda sad nostalgically.
I used to use a variety of cheat sheets for each lens and filters (like polarizers, and color modifiers --- sigh, the good old days) so that I could nail it without too much bracketing.
I don't recall exactly how I developed those cheat sheets and I no longer have them (I used an electric typewriter to create them on 3x5 cards.) Gee, I must be getting old!
I'm sure someone else on the UHH who is still shooting film can point you to a website full of information on the subject.
Thanks for the memory!! :thumbup:
Jun 27, 2012 11:55:29 #
Not mm difference, but quality and complexity.
You are looking for a quality called T-stop, or transmission efficiency.
A lens with many elements or lower quality coatings will transmit less light. Usually small difference, reflex mirrors have a large T-stop difference above all other common lenses.
You are looking for a quality called T-stop, or transmission efficiency.
A lens with many elements or lower quality coatings will transmit less light. Usually small difference, reflex mirrors have a large T-stop difference above all other common lenses.
Jun 28, 2012 07:49:46 #
Festina Lente wrote:
quote=Schoster I still shoot only film and have a... (show quote)
Truth is , you were high tech back then . :shock:
Jun 28, 2012 09:53:28 #
Go to a second hand book store and try to find an old Kodak
"How To" book from the 80's. They are spiral bound and full of really good info.
"How To" book from the 80's. They are spiral bound and full of really good info.
Jun 28, 2012 12:18:50 #
Schoster wrote:
I still shoot only film and have a variety of 35mm and medium format cameras (now mostly vintage I guess) that do not have built in light meters. I use a hand held light meter but I was wondering if there was some "fudge factor" I should be applying when I add more glass (go from 35 mm to 100 mm or longer) since the added optics would require more light.
Thanks for the insight!
Thanks for the insight!
I too have medium and large format cameras that I still use, b/w only. I don't think you need to worry about any fudge factors, but the type of light meter you use could make a difference.
For medium format, I am currently using a good incident meter but am coming to the conclusion that it works well only in low contrast scenes. It seems to be underexposing high contrast scenes. I plan to start using my Pentax spotmeter usually reserved for large format, hopefully that will correct this problem.
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