camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

I am sure many of you noticed that I have used spot metering for many of my posted images. I know that a large proportion of photographers do not use spot metering since they have found matrix, evaluative or other varieties of multi pattern metering modes more convenient.

Let me clarify that those multi pattern meters are convenient but not necessarily infallible when it comes to exposure. Keep in mind that matrix is a computerized meter that uses algorithms incorporated into the software of the camera to arrive at the exposure. To make matters a little bit more complicated matrix offers exposure compensation but neither you nor I know by how much when metering a scene. If you ask me, when I use matrix I know I am not in control unless I look at the histogram and then take wise decisions.

Spot metering in the hands of those using mirrorless cameras has an advantage and that is that we can visualize on the monitor the final exposure. When I go that way I usually do not have to bother looking at the histogram. I know beforehand that my exposure will be as I visualized it.

Derek Forss is an Olympus visionary and mentor who has put some very useful videos in the Internet and this one about spot metering is one of them. If you are curious about this metering technique I sincerely hope the video will bring you some light into spot metering. It could change your photography.

Just remember that spot metering like center weighted metering do not compensate the exposure. Both give you a reading that places your subject in a middle tonality, like the one of an 18% gray when using b&w.
While center weighted concentrates most of the meter sensitivity toward the center with spot metering we are measuring a very small part of the subject hence an accurate reading of the most important part of the subject is needed. For those who are not aware of it, once you place a tonality where it is supposed to be the other tonalities will fall in place within the dynamic range of the sensor and they will be properly exposed.

https://search.aol.com/aol/video?q=derek+forss&v_t=webmail-searchbox

d3200prime

The link is confusing as it shows many videos. Which one are you referring to?

Leitz Loc: Solms

Have you figured out how to take an incident reading yet?

SonyA580 Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer

I may be sticking my neck out, but I'll say it any way: I always use spot metering. Always. 2 reasons: 1. I can check the dynamic range of the shot. 2. There is always one thing in the shot I want exposed correctly (18% gray, whatever). I spot meter that area. If the dynamic range is great, I may resort to HDR. Fortunately, you can also adjust the dynamic range of Sony RAW files in the Sony RAW converter. This feature, probably more that any other, has allowed me to shoot inside buildings with bright windows knowing I can most likely salvage the picture in post. My niece taught me another trick regarding bright windows. She does a lot of interior home photo's for realtors. She takes a properly exposed photo of the room, and then the exact same shot with the properly exposed window. She merges the two together in PS so the each element is properly exposed. More ways than one to skin a cat!

SonyA580 Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer

I may be sticking my neck out, but I'll say it any way: I always use spot metering. Always. 2 reasons: 1. I can check the dynamic range of the shot. 2. There is always one thing in the shot I want exposed correctly (18% gray, whatever). I spot meter that area. If the dynamic range is great, I may resort to HDR. Fortunately, you can also adjust the dynamic range of Sony RAW files in the Sony RAW converter. This feature, probably more that any other, has allowed me to shoot inside buildings with bright windows knowing I can most likely salvage the shadows in post. My niece taught me another trick regarding bright windows. She does a lot of interior home photo's for realtors. She takes a properly exposed photo of the room, and then the exact same shot with the properly exposed window. She merges the two together in PS so the each element is properly exposed. More ways than one to skin a cat!

BebuLamar

You said a contradiction. If you can visualize on the monitor before the final exposure then why do you need any meter at all?

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

D3200prime, I mentioned in my post that Mr. Forss has several videos in Utube. Please, look for the one on spot metering or search for spot metering in Utube making reference to Derek Forss. If still unable to get the proper video you can get back to me and I will try to get the right link for you.

Leitz, I have been using incident readings for more than 30 years. I have an old Minolta flashmeter IV but it is not very accurate for digital. Incident readings put us in the ballpark but they are not very good for many subjects like sunrises, sunsets and when our subject is far from us and in different lighting conditions.

BebuLamar if I use matrix or center weighted even using the monitor my control is not as precise as when I use spot metering. Spot metering offers me an accurate reading of a small part of the subject, that part I consider most important and it is usually a highlight. Matrix considers that specific area too but it evaluates the other areas in the frame at the same time and usually the exposure is not consistent. As Sonva580 explains, the spot meter is capable of giving us the dynamic range of the scene in which case we know if the sensor will accommodate the dynamic range. It is a little bit more work but then we can resort to graduated neutral density filters to tone down the dynamic range. I admit that I do not do that often but it is another way to be in absolute control of the exposure.

The histogram is of great help because as long as we do not clip the highlights we are OK. I use them often with my dSLR cameras but I seldom do with mirrorless bodies.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Papi, I just want to add, that if you can visualize on the monitor(LCD) the final exposure, you're shooting soooo slow, that you may as well use a hand held meter!!! LoL
Everybody's needs are different. I assure you, your method or your camera would not work for me!!! LoL
SS

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I have been using spot since my first analog Pentax 1 degree spotmeter that I bought in 1970. But I am really enjoying the highlight weighted metering in the D810. No muss, no fuss - works as advertised 99% of the time. What I do I have the camera set up to lock exposure on half-press on the shutter. I point the meter at the highlight, recompose and take the shot.

http://nps.nikonimaging.com/technical_solutions/d810_tips/highlight/

Jim Bob

Now that's a cool tip. Thanks.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

It's one of those things that is small but makes a huge difference in performance and speed. I love it!

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Years (decades) ago, I used spot metering with my Miranda Sensorex, and I really liked it. With my digitals, I usually use Matrix, and that seems to work.

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

Spot on, Papi.

MrBob Loc: lookout Mtn. NE Alabama

My first Ah Ha moment in photography occurred at a seminar where where middle gray was explained in regards as to how cameras meter and how to spot meter the highlights and make adjustments as to where you are in relation to 18% gray.... Everyone should have a basic understanding of this and the zone system in general. Evaluative metering has gotten so good that for most situations it does a pretty good job and folks don't think of spot metering too much.

cthahn

The picture takers on this site would have no clue what you are talking about nor would they be interested.