srt101fan

Many of you have provided excellent advice on photo setups and execution for a variety of subjects. I have learned a lot and am very thankful to those who have made serious contributions to these discussions. But much of it involves use of other equipment (tripod, flash, filters, etc) and assumes time is available for proper setup.

I would like to get some advice on taking photos when there is no time for a lot of fiddling with camera buttons/menus, when the use of ancillary equipment may be restricted, and when there may be only one chance to get a shot and no option to “come back when the light is better”. Specifically, I need advice on photographing while traveling with a tour group.

Quick reaction is necessary as much of the picture-taking is on the move. Tripods are out, as is flash in many interiors. Even changing lenses and adding/removing filters may be cumbersome. When walking around a city, lighting (intensity and color) could vary quite a bit and high contrast and white balance may be an issue. Composition is a problem because you can’t always be where you want to be. (Looking over your shoulder for pickpockets is also part of the action!)

In the past, I have relied mostly on auto and semi-auto settings (used Nikon P mode a lot). Would like to be better prepared for my next trip and increase the probability of “good shots”. I am playing around with different settings. Trying Manual and using BBF; liking it so far. Having some problems getting sharp pictures but working on it (there’s been good stuff on that subject in this forum). About to get into RAW.

Interested in scenery, buildings (exterior and interior, architectural details), street photography, monuments, etc. Right now I’m leaning towards using Manual (Nikon “M” setting); setting shutter speed to override the unsteadiness of my not-so-young hands; setting aperture somewhere in the middle; and letting ISO float (don't mean to ignite the Auto ISO debate!). Not sure about metering – use Spot? Set WB to Auto? Oh, and I have to tell myself to quit taking pictures from a bus! Never works for me.

My camera is a Nikon D5300; lenses are Nikkor 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 and 55-200 f/4-5.6. (Dreaming of a fast 35mm but we're not there yet)

How would you set up your camera for max flexibility under “tour travel” conditions? I realize that there is no “one fits all” set of settings, but I do need a starting point. I would very much appreciate your inputs. I realize that bits and pieces of this subject have been addressed in other posts. I’m looking for an overall approach to settings and shooting technique.

(Please, NOT taking pictures and buying postcards instead is not an option!)

Thanks in advance!

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

Consider buying Bryan Peterson's book, "Understanding Exposure" - a great reference on all things exposure related. Many UHH members recommend it. I'd get the Third or Fourth edition, unless he has come out with a newer one. Available from Amazon. /Ralph

delkeener Loc: SW Rhode Island, USA

Here's a good discussion of camera presets for street photography by one of the experts < https://ianmacdonaldphotography.com/2017/02/06/setting-up-the-fujifilm-x100f-for-street-photography/ >

SonyA580 Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer

I'm not sure there is any easy way to take photos while traveling with a tour group unless ...., you just ignore the group and strike out on your own or, go before and after the group is together. I use shutter priority a lot because I know I can't hand hold the camera steady enough to get sharp pictures at lower speeds...., even with Image Stabilization turned on. Today's cameras allow us to shoot at ISO's much greater than the old days and I can usually find a combination of speed, ISO and aperture to suit most occasions. My lens of choice is the 16-80mm which looks like 24-120mm on my APS-C sensor. I find this covers 90% of what I want to shoot and the other 10% forces me to be "creative" with locations and camera settings.

Fred Harwood Loc: Sheffield, Mass.

Perhaps leave the camera in auto, but have the two program selections set otherwise, for easy switching?

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

Put the camera in Program Mode and keep your finger on the dial wheel - simply rotate the wheel for the best shutter speed/ aperture combination for the particular shot you are taking. Less time-consuming than working the camera in Manual Mode, yet still keeps you in control over shutter speed and aperture values. If you're not accustomed to using the dial wheel in the Program Mode setting, practice a little before the trip.

erinjay64

You want what does not exist...one setting which is best for everything. You might as well ask The Tooth Fairy to marry you at Harry Potter's house. What will be best for the instant happening action will not be best for architecture, landscapes, etc. Manual setting is all about fiddling with buttons, and settings. Trying to shoot in Manual, without fiddling with buttons, and settings, is like trying to win The Indy 500 without driving fast, or risking a crash. To override unsteady hands, use a fast shutter speed...but that will involve buttons, and settings. Pickpockets are no problem is you have nothing for them to pick. Leave your wallet, ID, passport, etc, at home / in your hotel room, and walk around with just your camera on a strap around your neck / waist. Keep a spare battery in your front pants pocket.

The best travel photos will be shot on your own, while taking time to use buttons, and settings, and tripods, and filters. For hurried shots, as part of a group, without buttons, settings, tripods, etc, go Automatic / Program mode. Go auto everything, and take what comes quality wise. Use Matrix Metering. Think ahead. Shoot subjects in the east in the afternoon / near sunset. Shoot subjects in the west in the morning. For indoor portraits, in the northern hemisphere, use the light from south facing windows. Contrasty subjects-light on the right side, shaded on the left, etc-need spot metering. There is no overall approach....except staying with Auto / Program modes. Everything else will vary from hour to hour, subject to subject, etc. Make a choice, and go with it. You can try settings which will usually do fairly well in a general way...ISO 100 in sun, 400 in shade, etc, F/8, or F11, for medium DOF, a shutter speed of 1/2000 second for action, or 1/125tha of a second for still subjects. Consider using a shutter speed which is at least as high as your lens focal length....1/125 second for a 100mm lens, and so on. Shoot at one setting, and then reset and shoot at another setting, to get several different exposures...but that involves more buttons, and settings. Get serious about photography, by taking time, and using buttons, and settings, or remain an Auto bound snapshooter.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

'P' is called Professional for a reason ...

The next important truism is: f/8 and be there.

If you think I joke, google it ...

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

F8 and be there is sage advice indeed. I liked the admonition so much that years ago I bought the domain name f8andBthere. Never have used it, but I keep it to remind me of the importance. May use it one day if I'm ever worthy (which is highly doubtful 😂).

srt101fan

Thanks, Ralph. I did get Peterson's book; learned a lot from it and am still digesting the info.

srt101fan

Excellent article! This is the kind of thing I was looking for. Thanks.

srt101fan

Thanks; appreciate your comments. I'm still trying to find my "minimum" shutter speed. The only thing for sure is that it isn't what it used to be.

srt101fan

Worth trying. Thanks!

srt101fan

Good thoughts. This would seem to be the best approach in at least some of the situations.

Are you a chess player?

Japakomom Loc: Originally from the Last Frontier

I have used "P" mode. I can still make some necessary changes but do not have to think too hard.