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Shooting Stage Plays
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Aug 12, 2017 07:04:29   #
MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay
 
I have two cameras and I want to see what you all think would be the best combination to shoot several live stage performances in a Boy's & Girl's club gym.

Option 1: Canon 7D Mark II with EF-S 17-55 F2.8 Lens. Exposure Compensation set at -1. AV Set at 2.8. ISO set at a level to allow for a 1/60 sec shot.

Option2: Canon 5D Mark III with EF 24-105 F4.0 Lens. Exposure Compensation set at -1. AV Set a 4.0. ISO set a a level to allow for a 1/60 sec shot.

Basically the question is will a full frame camera with a L Lens with a max opening of 4.0 do a better job than a crop camera with a lens with a max opening of 2.8.
With any luck, I will get a front row seat. The 'stage" is on the same level as the front seats.

Thank you for your help.

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Aug 12, 2017 07:17:02   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
MikeMcK wrote:
I have two cameras and I want to see what you all think would be the best combination to shoot several live stage performances in a Boy's & Girl's club gym.

Option 1: Canon 7D Mark II with EF-S 17-55 F2.8 Lens. Exposure Compensation set at -1. AV Set at 2.8. ISO set at a level to allow for a 1/60 sec shot.

Option2: Canon 5D Mark III with EF 24-105 F4.0 Lens. Exposure Compensation set at -1. AV Set a 4.0. ISO set a a level to allow for a 1/60 sec shot.

Basically the question is will a full frame camera with a L Lens with a max opening of 4.0 do a better job than a crop camera with a lens with a max opening of 2.8.
With any luck, I will get a front row seat. The 'stage" is on the same level as the front seats.

Thank you for your help.
I have two cameras and I want to see what you all ... (show quote)


I used to shoot a lot of plays for a local theater group. One night, someone in the audience complained about the "noise" my camera was making. I guess she didn't mind the people talking and coughing, or the sound of the A/C or the traffic outside. It was the barely audible clicking of my camera that bothered her. So, no more play photography.

I had a tripod set up in front of me with probably a D7100 and 18-200mm lens. There are lots of times when no one is moving on stage, and the lighting is usually good. Not every shot was technically perfect, but the set of images did show the progression of the play. I also did video for them. I always sat in the back (small theater), maybe thirty feet from the stage. I could get a wide view or a close-up. It's best to practice ahead of time.

.

Harvey
Harvey...

Bell, Book, and Candle
Bell, Book, and Candle...

On Golden Pond
On Golden Pond...

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Aug 12, 2017 07:23:30   #
MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay
 
jerryc41 wrote:
I used to shoot a lot of plays for a local theater group. One night, someone in the audience complained about the "noise" my camera was making. I guess she didn't mind the people talking and coughing, or the sound of the A/C or the traffic outside. It was the barely audible clicking of my camera that bothered her. So, no more play photography.

I had a tripod set up in front of me with probably a D7100 and 18-200mm lens. There are lots of times when no one is moving on stage, and the lighting is usually good. Not every shot was technically perfect, but the set of images did show the progression of the play. I also did video for them. I always sat in the back (small theater), maybe thirty feet from the stage. I could get a wide view or a close-up. It's best to practice ahead of time.
I used to shoot a lot of plays for a local theater... (show quote)


Thanks, I may change my seat!

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Aug 12, 2017 07:48:39   #
ole sarg Loc: south florida
 
Shoot the dress rehearsal on stage. Used to do it all the time.

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Aug 12, 2017 07:49:18   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
ole sarg wrote:
Shoot the dress rehearsal on stage. Used to do it all the time.


Good idea!

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Aug 12, 2017 07:56:10   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
MikeMcK wrote:
I have two cameras and I want to see what you all think would be the best combination to shoot several live stage performances in a Boy's & Girl's club gym.

Option 1: Canon 7D Mark II with EF-S 17-55 F2.8 Lens. Exposure Compensation set at -1. AV Set at 2.8. ISO set at a level to allow for a 1/60 sec shot.

Option2: Canon 5D Mark III with EF 24-105 F4.0 Lens. Exposure Compensation set at -1. AV Set a 4.0. ISO set a a level to allow for a 1/60 sec shot.

Basically the question is will a full frame camera with a L Lens with a max opening of 4.0 do a better job than a crop camera with a lens with a max opening of 2.8.
With any luck, I will get a front row seat. The 'stage" is on the same level as the front seats.

Thank you for your help.
I have two cameras and I want to see what you all ... (show quote)


Lighting levels may and probably will change. I would suggest you set your camera using the highlights that are important to retain detail in. Use the camera's spot meter, measure something white, and add 1 stop exposure to the meter's reading. You will never end up with overexposed highlights this way. If you can practice ahead of time you'll get a chance to test this for yourself and make your mistakes.

Your best bet is to use the 5D Mk III which has excellent high ISO performance - ISO 3200 is no problem. If you can rent or borrow a 24-70 F2.8 and a 70-200 F2.8, both will be tack sharp if you shoot at F4, and with a high enough ISO you should even be able to shoot at F5.6 or possibly F8, so you can get better depth of field. At least you will have more flexibility. I would take the 7D just as a back up. The 5D will give you better results.

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Aug 12, 2017 08:10:28   #
MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay
 
Gene51 wrote:
Lighting levels may and probably will change. I would suggest you set your camera using the highlights that are important to retain detail in. Use the camera's spot meter, measure something white, and add 1 stop exposure to the meter's reading. You will never end up with overexposed highlights this way. If you can practice ahead of time you'll get a chance to test this for yourself and make your mistakes.

Your best bet is to use the 5D Mk III which has excellent high ISO performance - ISO 3200 is no problem. If you can rent or borrow a 24-70 F2.8 and a 70-200 F2.8, both will be tack sharp if you shoot at F4, and with a high enough ISO you should even be able to shoot at F5.6 or possibly F8, so you can get better depth of field. At least you will have more flexibility. I would take the 7D just as a back up. The 5D will give you better results.
Lighting levels may and probably will change. I wo... (show quote)


Thank you!

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Aug 12, 2017 09:51:50   #
rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin
 
Gene51 - This may be an ignorant question, if so I apologize. Why wouldn't increasing the exposure (opening the aperture) one stop above the camera's reading of a grey (white) card not risk blowing out the highlights?

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Aug 12, 2017 16:10:28   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
rjaywallace wrote:
Gene51 - This may be an ignorant question, if so I apologize. Why wouldn't increasing the exposure (opening the aperture) one stop above the camera's reading of a grey (white) card not risk blowing out the highlights?


Not ignorant at all. But you need to decide if you are using a gray card (no compensation required), or a white card (which I would not use, because it is not relevant to the scene). Better to meter off the important highlight - an athlete wearing a white jersey, a bride at a wedding, the white painted clapboard on the sunlit side of a country church, etc.

If you meter the highlight, then the meter will give you a setting that will result in that white being middle gray. In spot meter mode, the camera has no clue what you are reading. So it is up to you to place that tonal value where it makes sense, which would be one stop above middle gray. Some cameras, like Fujis, can go up to 2 stops over without blowing highlights.

Another way to look at it is if you have three cats in a single shot. A black one, a white one and a gray one. You can use the gray cat for a reading, and more than likely you can use it without modification, and both the black and white cats will be rendered correctly, along with the gray cat. But suppose you wanted to use the white cat. It reflects about 1-1.5 stops more light. The meter doesn't know, so it gives you a DARKER reading, so it comes out middle gray. The gray cat will be very dark, and the black cat will be completely featureless.

It makes sense when you think about it.

There are many good references on the Zone System, which is the core concept of using a spot meter and evaluating tonal values and using that information to set your exposure.

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Aug 13, 2017 06:52:56   #
Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina
 
Of your options go with the 5D3... superior higher ISO capability.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

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Aug 13, 2017 06:54:33   #
MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay
 
Notorious T.O.D. wrote:
Of your options go with the 5D3... superior higher ISO capability.

Best,
Todd Ferguson


Thank you. The play is this afternoon, I'll post some images.

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Aug 13, 2017 09:49:16   #
Clapperboard
 
Gene51 You are on the right lines but as the camera meter will will try to bring the spot metering measured highlights to mid grey you need to add two and a half/three stops to the exposure.
That is set your camera to spot metering. Measure the brightest part(s) of the scene that matter in your subject. Add two and a half stops or even three stops to your exposure and take some test shots. The test shots will tel you whether to add the full three stops or a little less.
As the useful exposure range on a sensor chip is six and a half stops and the stage lighting is liable to be a bit fierce you may be forced to let go some highlights or shadows in your settings. Hence metering "the brightest part(s) of the scene that matter in your subject".

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Aug 13, 2017 10:28:25   #
donrosshill Loc: Delaware & Florida
 
May I suggest that you form a relationship with the principles of the Theater. Advise them that you wish to take some photographs of parts of the Play that tell the story best. Let them know that you will provide them with free digital images that they can use to promote this play and future plays. ( Free Marketing). Do this when they are doing their Dress Rehearsals or at a time that best suits them.
Good luck and enjoy.
Don

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Aug 13, 2017 10:50:12   #
MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay
 
Clapperboard wrote:
Gene51 You are on the right lines but as the camera meter will will try to bring the spot metering measured highlights to mid grey you need to add two and a half/three stops to the exposure.
That is set your camera to spot metering. Measure the brightest part(s) of the scene that matter in your subject. Add two and a half stops or even three stops to your exposure and take some test shots. The test shots will tel you whether to add the full three stops or a little less.
As the useful exposure range on a sensor chip is six and a half stops and the stage lighting is liable to be a bit fierce you may be forced to let go some highlights or shadows in your settings. Hence metering "the brightest part(s) of the scene that matter in your subject".
Gene51 You are on the right lines but as the came... (show quote)


Thank you

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Aug 13, 2017 10:50:49   #
MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay
 
donrosshill wrote:
May I suggest that you form a relationship with the principles of the Theater. Advise them that you wish to take some photographs of parts of the Play that tell the story best. Let them know that you will provide them with free digital images that they can use to promote this play and future plays. ( Free Marketing). Do this when they are doing their Dress Rehearsals or at a time that best suits them.
Good luck and enjoy.
Don

Good points, thanks

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