Comparison of Nikkor VS Zeiss wide angle primes (Page 2): A few final points. While the nikkors are autofocus the zeiss is strictly manual. That said, the focus throw of the zeisses...

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Comparison of Nikkor VS Zeiss wide angle primes

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Jul 11, 2017 09:34:28 #

pappleg

A few final points. While the nikkors are autofocus the zeiss is strictly manual. That said, the focus throw of the zeisses are much longer and smoother but in very low light situations I can use the focus confirmation feature in the viewfinder of the 810 to assure reliable focus. I am not averse to vintage lenses but the modern lens coatings have to a large part dramatically increased contrast and reduced chromatic aberration. I agree that focal plane shutters of modern cameras introduce shake and mirror locking and other damping techniques are important. The old leaf shutters despite their spring inaccuracies were much more forgiving in that regard. I did look at the Sigma Art Lens but the arc of the front element on the 20mm prevents use of filter holders and I plan to use graduated neutral density filters on some landscapes.

Thanks again all. Patrick

Jul 11, 2017 09:47:15 #

aellman Loc: Boston MA

alfeng wrote:

Do you b i really /i /b need a wideangle lens ... (show quote)

Jul 11, 2017 09:54:11 #

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

pappleg wrote:

I did look at the Sigma Art Lens but the arc of the front element on the 20mm prevents use of filter holders and I plan to use graduated neutral density filters on some landscapes.

Thanks again all. Patrick

I believe, (now-a-days) there are special adapters and over size GND's available for this purpose .......

Jul 11, 2017 09:58:18 #

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

alfeng wrote:

Do you b i really /i /b need a wideangle lens ... (show quote)

I think the 24mm f/2.8 AIs is even sharper than the 2.0. I just got one used from KEH for about half the price of a new one, which Nikon still makes. For daytime landscapes you won't miss the extra stop.

And AF is pretty much superfluous for wide angle.

Jul 11, 2017 10:47:44 #

nikonbrain Loc: Crystal River Florida

2 ways to approach this I would , try the 14 - 24 2.8 nikkor the best sharpest Lens with your d810 in m-up first curtain mode at base I so 64...or best I have seen , I'm talking pine cones in trees at 2 miles , try a gigapan ,about $ 1,000.00 coupled with a mid range zoom when mounted to the gigapan it will control the overlaps the exposures, the stitching , everything leaving you with a high resolution image free of golf carts and people if you calculate the the exsposure long enough to totally remove all movement except those standing perfectly still . Some use a neutral density filter to create the longer exsposures .My former boss used a gigapan to great effect out west in the Grand Canyon to create large wall size Vistas that wow every one that see them he used a medium tele on a Pentax 645d at 40 megapixels .The longer the Lens the more time needed but the greater the detail .Like I said large images at 60 inches tall by 8 to 10 feet .Done on a 65 inch Epson and a ipf 8300 44 inch Wide printer .with pine cones visible at close inspection at 2 feet away....

Jul 11, 2017 11:08:54 #

Bazbo Loc: Lisboa, Portugal

pappleg wrote:

Newbie to this forum but not photography. Had my ... (show quote)

The Nikkor lenses are very good. The Zeiss lenses are the best.

I make extensive use out of the Zeiss 18mm and the 135 mm (paired with an 800e) and have never been disappointed. This plus the Nikkor 24-70 zoom comprise my basic one camera set up

Jul 11, 2017 11:20:34 #

Leitz Loc: Solms

pappleg wrote:

... going full frame all the way with Nikon D810 24-120mm Nikkor, 60mm F2 Micro ...

Is that 60 f/2.0 Micro-Nikkor something new that no one else knows about yet?

Jul 11, 2017 11:35:23 #

pappleg

Oops! my bad it's 60mm F2.8 not 2.0- actually looking at replacing it with the 105 Micro Nikkor to get a little distance from subject and avoid shadowing.

Jul 11, 2017 12:57:15 #

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

I am a 50yr fan of German Lenses. That being said and your planning on plunking down $$$$. Do not depend on what others say. Check out the lenses yourself. Either rent them for a full trial or take your camera to the camera store and try them there. Shoot the shelves to check pincushion and barrel error. Shoot the lights or the sun for coma and flair. Brick walls are great for checking almost everything. Push come to shove, tape up a newspaper and shoot it. It will let you know all kinds of lens errors such as resolution, vinyetting, pincushion, etc. don't forget to check all F stops and all ends of zoom. When I check a zoom, I check them at max wide, midpoint, and max zoom. As you may know, a 20 mm compared to a 21mm may actually be less than 5% difference in angle of view. Manufactures are allowed to round up or down on their numbers. Like the boating industry, a 14ft boat may actually be only 13ft6in. Happy shooting.

Jul 11, 2017 13:28:05 #

repleo Loc: Boston

cmc65 wrote:

I think you should try renting a couple for test run. It may help.

In your case I would agree. Normally I would look on renting a lens as money down the drain unless it was an expensive one that I would rarely use, but you are unlikely to get objective advice that is that specific.

Jul 11, 2017 14:19:14 #

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

pappleg wrote:

Newbie to this forum but not photography. Had my ... (show quote)

It would be helpful for you to post some images here with "(store original)" checked. No matter how much experience one has, s/he doesn't always think of everything

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