Getting a sharp image with low contrast
Jun 7, 2017 09:12:18 #
I do not really understand what is exactly what you want. This is a monochrome image and as such it has excellent blacks, whites and middle tonalities.
If it was my image the only thing I would consider is adding some contrast with curves, if you are using Photoshop.
If it was my image the only thing I would consider is adding some contrast with curves, if you are using Photoshop.
Jun 7, 2017 11:57:05 #
blackest wrote:
If it's just a question of getting AF to work on t... (show quote)
That's roughly my thoughts. If you don't have a laser pen, place some sharp-edged object at the point where you want the focus lock, get the focus lock on the object and turn off AF while holding the focus lock. If you keep the camera at the same distance you won't have to re-focus for the rest of the shoot.
Jun 10, 2017 20:56:26 #
lydiabpinkham wrote:
i have a wedge in a light cover, i have tried taking it on a white background, grey background with studio lights, and the above taken under a sunroof with background studio lights, i have taken it as fstop: 5.6 , 9, 11
i have adjusted my iso from 200 to 400
i Do not know what else to try..
HELP
i have adjusted my iso from 200 to 400
i Do not know what else to try..
HELP
This is how I photograph products. I use seamless paper and pull it down and over the table, cover it with clear plexiglass, position the product at a 45 degree angle to the camera, over head soft box, umbrella on right side as a key, and a white reflector to the left side as fill. I use camera on tripod, 100mm macro lens. I mark the distance to the camera if I shoot more then one. Hope this helps.
There seems to be a question about focus. The AF needs contrast to attain focus, so focus to the edges.
Jun 24, 2017 23:29:03 #
Agreed you haven't given much info, but I'm going to guess anyway. You have been shooting in aperture priority?
A mostly automatic exposure getting the basically same type of results at various ISOs ?
Remember that studio lights don't change their intensity.
So you might do better here in shutter priority to vary the intensity of the light coming from the studio light.
It appears in this shot that if shutter a little faster it gets you a shot highlighting th edge where the wedge curves
and lessening the light just a bit on top of the wedge with a bit more definition.
If that doesn't do it for you, we would need info on how you are exposing your shot, and just how you want the
subject to look.
A mostly automatic exposure getting the basically same type of results at various ISOs ?
Remember that studio lights don't change their intensity.
So you might do better here in shutter priority to vary the intensity of the light coming from the studio light.
It appears in this shot that if shutter a little faster it gets you a shot highlighting th edge where the wedge curves
and lessening the light just a bit on top of the wedge with a bit more definition.
If that doesn't do it for you, we would need info on how you are exposing your shot, and just how you want the
subject to look.
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