Linckinn
Loc: Okatie, SC and Edgartown, MA
I have recently been taking hand held eagle, wood stork, and egret pictures with medium telephoto (Nikon 55-300 and Panasonic 100-300) lenses. In most cases there is a little softness, not enough to totally ruin the picture, but not the sharpness I would like. I have experimented to try to determine if the problem is focus, camera shake, or inferior lens. Depending on the answer, the solution could be new camera, new lens, or always use tripod. I would hate to lay out the money only to find I have diagnosed incorrectly and there is no improvement.
I have concluded that the problem is camera shake (I have reasonably steady hands, but am 72, so not perfect). With cameras like the new Olympus advertising 5.5 "stops" of IS, it occurred to me why not just move the ISO 3 or 4 stops in my existing cameras and gain the resulting shutter speed. If my camera and lens IS is 2 or 3, maybe that would accomplish the same thing. There is no appreciable noise at 800 or even 1600, especially in sun light. I tried it and got much improved results. (I was already shooting at 1/effective focal length or more, so the above was at numbers like 1/3000.)
So my question is what am I missing? The above seems way too simple. Is there a direct correlation with shutter speed and image stabilization, or is something else going on? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
So, what am I missing?
kymarto
Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
Actually a higher shutter speed is always preferable to the same number of stops of IS, since the latter cannot correct for subject movement. You don't seem to be missing anything apart from the fact that higher ISO means increased noise and reduced dynamic range. One nice thing about IS is the steadying of the image while viewing, of course.
i would try static shots with the settings you used on birds, but with a tripod. Same focal length, ISO and shutter speed and the comparison should show if it's lens, shutter speed or you making soft images.
Greg
Might help to see a sample image. Yes, you defintely reduce the chance of blur with a higher shutter speed. All image stabilization is not created equal.
At high shutter speeds, IS is ineffective, it does nothing. If you are still getting soft images at a high shutter speed them maybe your focus is slightly off. Have you fine tuned the lenses to your camera body?
I don't think that you are missing anything! I shoot live theater under extremely variable lighting conditions from the read-throughs to the final curtain and I shoot ISO6400 all the time, now that it's a very useable. Modern high ISO levels have upped my "keepers" to about 70%. High ISO's and fast lenses have made my life complete:)
Linckinn wrote:
I have recently been taking hand held eagle, wood stork, and egret pictures with medium telephoto (Nikon 55-300 and Panasonic 100-300) lenses. In most cases there is a little softness, not enough to totally ruin the picture, but not the sharpness I would like. I have experimented to try to determine if the problem is focus, camera shake, or inferior lens. Depending on the answer, the solution could be new camera, new lens, or always use tripod. I would hate to lay out the money only to find I have diagnosed incorrectly and there is no improvement.
I have concluded that the problem is camera shake (I have reasonably steady hands, but am 72, so not perfect). With cameras like the new Olympus advertising 5.5 "stops" of IS, it occurred to me why not just move the ISO 3 or 4 stops in my existing cameras and gain the resulting shutter speed. If my camera and lens IS is 2 or 3, maybe that would accomplish the same thing. There is no appreciable noise at 800 or even 1600, especially in sun light. I tried it and got much improved results. (I was already shooting at 1/effective focal length or more, so the above was at numbers like 1/3000.)
So my question is what am I missing? The above seems way too simple. Is there a direct correlation with shutter speed and image stabilization, or is something else going on? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
So, what am I missing?
I have recently been taking hand held eagle, wood ... (
show quote)
Not sure and there is no one absolute answer, however increasing the shutter speed seems like it could work and would be the simpler and cheapest solution. Besides increasing shutter speed another solution (if you don't want to invest in a tripod and gimbal head) would be a mono-pod and faster shutter speed (I am 72 and use that method).
Linckinn
Loc: Okatie, SC and Edgartown, MA
Thanks for the quick responses. I didn't know about potential dynamic range reduction, and will monitor same. I have done the tripod tests, finding great improvement, but still not tack sharp. The high shutter speeds actually yielded better images than the tripod. I think I need to try a 2 second delay in the tripod. I'll see about posting some images later today.
Thanks
rmorrison1116 wrote:
At high shutter speeds, IS is ineffective, it does nothing. If you are still getting soft images at a high shutter speed them maybe your focus is slightly off. Have you fine tuned the lenses to your camera body?
Actually IS is not ineffective or should I say inactive at fast shutter speeds. It will actually do a lot to ruin a shot. If turned on it is always working to detect camera motion or shake. At higher shutter speeds it will perceive a moving object you are shooting as camera shake and try to counter act it which will introduce blur to an image. So it will actually do the exact opposite of what it is supposed to do. If you read the manual for the lens it always says turn off IS when using a tripod or faster shutter speeds. IS is designed to be used at shutter speeds slower than one could normally hand hold without movement. For example, As a guideline, if normal handheld is 1 over the focal lenght on a 300 mm lens is should only be used below a shutter speed of 1/300. On a 50mm lens on speeds less than 1/50. This is why the OP is getting sharper pictures of moving objects by upping the shutter speed and turning off the IS
Linckinn wrote:
Thanks for the quick responses. I didn't know about potential dynamic range reduction, and will monitor same. I have done the tripod tests, finding great improvement, but still not tack sharp. The high shutter speeds actually yielded better images than the tripod. I think I need to try a 2 second delay in the tripod. I'll see about posting some images later today.
Thanks
I think you are going the right direction looking forward to seeing your photos.
JCam
Loc: MD Eastern Shore
Linckinn,
I suspect that your problem is something other shutter speed. I'm 77 and I too have some not as steady anymore issues so the Vibration stabilization is always on. I shoot backyard birds and speed boat (hydroplane) races with a 17-300mm telephoto, usually set at +/- 250mm, and can usually stop boat propellers (when the boat is airborne) with shutter speeds in the 1/2000 range--ISO on auto with a top limit at 800. I get a fuzzy shots occasionally, but... For the birds I use a single shot mode and slow burst for the boat races. I also use spot auto focus.
Both are always hand held as I've learned to hate using tripod.
Linckinn wrote:
Thanks for the quick responses. I didn't know about potential dynamic range reduction, and will monitor same. I have done the tripod tests, finding great improvement, but still not tack sharp. The high shutter speeds actually yielded better images than the tripod. I think I need to try a 2 second delay in the tripod. I'll see about posting some images later today.
Thanks
Without knowing more than what you wrote in your original post. I don't thing dynamic range is your issue. It is the IS doing its job. It sounds like your lenses are interpreting the movement of the birds as lens shake. Basicly IS works by counteracting lens shake by vibrating glass plates in lens. At higher shutter speeds the lens is not shaking but it thinks it is because of the motion of the birds and it is trying to counter act that by vibrating which is creating the softness you are seeing. A tripod is not going to change that. The bird will still be moving no matter how stabil the camera is. Shut your IS off and up your shutter speed There is tons written on this that you can reference. A quick google search on sharper bird pictures will give you more than you ever wanted to read. I think you will find everyone will say turn IS off for shooting moving objects and up your shutter speed Good Luck
boberic
Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
With a tripod. Turn IS off and use a cable release. Even the lightest ringer press can induce vibration.
Linckinn wrote:
I have recently been taking hand held eagle, wood stork, and egret pictures with medium telephoto (Nikon 55-300 and Panasonic 100-300) lenses. In most cases there is a little softness, not enough to totally ruin the picture, but not the sharpness I would like. I have experimented to try to determine if the problem is focus, camera shake, or inferior lens. Depending on the answer, the solution could be new camera, new lens, or always use tripod. I would hate to lay out the money only to find I have diagnosed incorrectly and there is no improvement.
I have concluded that the problem is camera shake (I have reasonably steady hands, but am 72, so not perfect). With cameras like the new Olympus advertising 5.5 "stops" of IS, it occurred to me why not just move the ISO 3 or 4 stops in my existing cameras and gain the resulting shutter speed. If my camera and lens IS is 2 or 3, maybe that would accomplish the same thing. There is no appreciable noise at 800 or even 1600, especially in sun light. I tried it and got much improved results. (I was already shooting at 1/effective focal length or more, so the above was at numbers like 1/3000.)
So my question is what am I missing? The above seems way too simple. Is there a direct correlation with shutter speed and image stabilization, or is something else going on? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
So, what am I missing?
I have recently been taking hand held eagle, wood ... (
show quote)
You mentioned a tripod, but you never said if you used one. The Nikon 55-300mm is a decent lens. And with a little time and patience, you could solve this. Get a good medium priced tripod and see if there is any improvement. Make sure it can adjust to a comfortable height for you to see through the viewfinder. And of course, consider the additional advice given to you already on your topic.
What camera are you shooting that you can use both a nikon and panasonic lens? I'm a assuming it's a panasonic body.
The Panasonic 100-300 version 1 is known to be a little soft on the telephoto end.
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