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Backlight issue in sports event...need help
Apr 14, 2017 05:21:54 #
I am taking pictures of my daughter's diving event. The bleachers are on one side only, flash is not permitted, the entire opposite side is windows. During a good part of the the day there is direct sunlight through those windows. The pictures were shot at f2.8, ISO 1600-2000, and 1/1250. Group AF, spot metering. BTW I rented a D500 and I have to say I love it! The second photo shows the spray of water flying off the diver's brace! I did do a little post processing, but my knowledge of that is limited, at this point.
Thanks in advance
Fran
Thanks in advance
Fran
Apr 14, 2017 05:37:44 #
Apr 14, 2017 05:39:58 #
I like the skin tones on the first one better. I would try some highlight and shadow adjustments in Lightroom, or what other post processing software you are using.
Apr 14, 2017 05:48:06 #
Fran, what did you measure with the spot meter?
Also, the other issue is the cycling of the fluorescent lights. You can read about it here:
https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4115/do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
https://photographylife.com/light-frequency-issue/
Luckily, more and more cameras include an anti-flicker setting, which senses the cycling if present, and mostly allows a shutter release at the correct time to avoid the flicker.
http://nps.nikonimaging.com/technical_solutions/d500_tips/useful/flicker_reduction/
Also, the other issue is the cycling of the fluorescent lights. You can read about it here:
https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4115/do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
https://photographylife.com/light-frequency-issue/
Luckily, more and more cameras include an anti-flicker setting, which senses the cycling if present, and mostly allows a shutter release at the correct time to avoid the flicker.
http://nps.nikonimaging.com/technical_solutions/d500_tips/useful/flicker_reduction/
Apr 14, 2017 05:56:55 #
To answer some of the questions asked- The metering was done on the diver. I saw the "flicker" adjustment in the menu, and will turn it on for next round of shots for the. Is there anything I can do in camera that will compensate for the backlight so my images are not so dark?
Fran
Fran
Apr 14, 2017 06:01:33 #
Ben's nana wrote:
To answer some of the questions asked- The metering was done on the diver. I saw the "flicker" adjustment in the menu, and will turn it on for next round of shots for the. Is there anything I can do in camera that will compensate for the backlight so my images are not so dark?
Fran
Fran
Ahh..yes.
Set the camera to manual and meter on a shadow, and then set the camera to what the meter says the exposure should be. You are interested in the divers who happen to be lit from the back so meter for the important part (the shadows).
It can be as simple as metering on the palm of your hand while it's in shadow there in the stands / bleachers.
The bonus to doing it this way is that all of your shots will be consistent from the first shot to the last; you won't have to "fix" half of them because the meter went dumb on you or you didn't meter the right way or whatever.
Fill the frame with your hand or someone's hand, set the camera, and happily shoot away as long as you are shooting these divers who are lit from the back, without thinking once about metering or anything else. :)
All this assumes that you are interested in a diver who's not a silhouette or in deep shadow (which is an artistic choice.)
Apr 14, 2017 06:08:42 #
Fran, you might experiment with using "Auto ISO" in a situation like this. Initially try it with just a few shots, then, if it helps, use it more regularly. Both images you posted represent good action shots, but I agree with UHH member RGreenway that the color tones in the second shot could be improved (warmed up) with post-processing. That D500 is amazing! /Ralph
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Apr 14, 2017 06:34:32 #
rpavich wrote:
It can be as simple as metering on the palm of your hand while it's in shadow there in the stands / bleachers.
The bonus to doing it this way is that all of your shots will be consistent from the first shot to the last; you won't have to "fix" half of them because the meter went dumb on you or you didn't meter the right way or whatever.
The bonus to doing it this way is that all of your shots will be consistent from the first shot to the last; you won't have to "fix" half of them because the meter went dumb on you or you didn't meter the right way or whatever.
Yes, this is a surprisingly good technique, although it goes against common sense.
Apr 14, 2017 07:01:40 #
rpavich wrote:
Ahh..yes. br br Set the camera to manual and met... (show quote)
I'm going to try this today. Thanks
Fran
Apr 14, 2017 07:07:12 #
Ben's nana wrote:
I'm going to try this today. Thanks
Fran
Fran
Great! If you get used to it, it's a very liberating way to shoot.
Try it first in non-mission-critical situations :)
If you have questions, just PM me.
Apr 14, 2017 08:23:03 #
Ben's nana wrote:
I'm going to try this today. Thanks. Fran
With all respect to other posters, here is what I meant by changing the Color Temperature (only). Processed with two clicks in Lightroom.
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Apr 14, 2017 08:38:22 #
Rpavich
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I just tried your method. It worked wonderfully!
Fran
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I just tried your method. It worked wonderfully!
Fran
Apr 14, 2017 08:39:30 #
Ben's nana wrote:
Rpavich
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I just tried your method. It worked wonderfully!
Fran
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I just tried your method. It worked wonderfully!
Fran
Well that's great!
Apr 14, 2017 13:09:34 #
Apr 16, 2017 16:24:02 #
Considering the problems you described, these photos are really great, Fran!
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