Exposure Triangle Logic? When you are shooting in different lighting conditions, to get different results, what is the logic you use to determine the camera settings? I know the sunny...

inbigd

When you are shooting in different lighting conditions, to get different results, what is the logic you use to determine the camera settings?

I know the sunny 16 rule but where I struggle is, for example, when it's dusk outside. How do you determine that the ISO should be 400 instead of 800 or the shutter speed should be 1/3 instead of 1/8 or aperture should be f 2.8 instead of f4?

Also, please suggest any books that have helped you.

thanks

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

"Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson is considered "the bible" on the topic. I have the fourth edition, but the author has been updating it periodically. /Ralph

John_F Loc: Minneapolis, MN

While our modern smart cameras measure the intensity of the light that falls on the sensor and will adjust one of the triangle so that the amount of light will delivery some optimum exposure, it must be understood that that light intensity measure will not be a subject incident number. The fundamental difference is that subject incident takes into account the reflectivity of the various different parts of the subject. Low reflectivity subject parts appear darker in the camera picture and higher reflectivity areas appear lighter and a colored subject reflect the different colors. How can the camera know some light beams come from darker, lighter, differently colored subject areas.

JPL

inbigd wrote:

When you are shooting in different lighting conditions, to get different results, what is the logic you use to determine the camera settings?

I know the sunny 16 rule but where I struggle is, for example, when it's dusk outside. How do you determine that the ISO should be 400 instead of 800 or the shutter speed should be 1/3 instead of 1/8 or aperture should be f 2.8 instead of f4?

Also, please suggest any books that have helped you.

thanks

You decide the aperture based on how much of your frame you want to be in focus and how dark it is. You decide the shutter speed based on how stable your camera is and how much movement you have to freeze in the picture. You use the ISO based on the max ISO you like from your camera and how high on that scale you need to go. And when you can not get the shot with all those settings within the limits you set you either take no shot or add to the lights with flash or something else.

There is no need to buy a book about this. Lot if information is available for free online and more importantly you will figure this out if think logically about all those settings.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

"Knowing" the exposure comes with experience--but the greats carried a light meter.

There are several options: trusting the camera meter, but hedging your bets by bracketing. Taking a "test" exposure and then checking the histogram-- which isn't perfect, but does help. It also helps to learn what it is telling you.

Another option is to carry a light meter. I have three but don't generally carry them. Instead I use an App called "My light meter". It's free; the pro version is $3.99. I have compared the readings to my Sekonic for reference.

The last thing is to read up on the Zone system so that you understand that not all objects have the same reflectance. Some, snow for example, will give a false reading because the meter makes the snow a middle tone when it is not. You could also carry a 13% gray card to use as a base exposure.

Good luck

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

inbigd wrote:

When you are shooting in different lighting conditions, to get different results, what is the logic you use to determine the camera settings?

No need for logic, I just point and shoot.

Seriously though, I shoot in manual and RAW. I use a combination of shutter speed and aperture that will work for what I want then select the ISO that will get it done. For example, shooting a perched bird in shade with 400mm lens, I can shoot at 125th or even 1/60th with vibration reduction. At 20 to 30 yards, depth of field at f8 will be only a few inches, so I don't want an aperture larger than that. Then, with spot metering, I go for the lowest ISO that will work. Shooting in RAW gives me several stops of latitude for over or under exposure.

Bottom line, you need a good understanding of how the exposure triangle works for your camera/lens, then it's practice until it comes natural for you.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

OddJobber wrote:

No need for logic, I just point and shoot. img ... (show quote)

I've just started using manual + auto ISO. It's pretty slick. It's really like another "auto mode" with the ability to change aperture AND shutter duration.

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

I've never tried auto ISO but might give it a try. The only "trick" to this is determining what's the highest ISO value to set for your camera.

BebuLamar

inbigd wrote:

When you are shooting in different lighting conditions, to get different results, what is the logic you use to determine the camera settings?

I know the sunny 16 rule but where I struggle is, for example, when it's dusk outside. How do you determine that the ISO should be 400 instead of 800 or the shutter speed should be 1/3 instead of 1/8 or aperture should be f 2.8 instead of f4?

Also, please suggest any books that have helped you.

thanks

1. If you read the 4th edition of the Understanding Exposure you will find there is no exposure triangle. It has been replaced by the photographic triangle.
2. Before applying the so called exposure triangle or photographic triangle you must determine the exposure needed for your subject.
3. To determine the needed exposure you can use the sunny 16 for the sunny 16 lighting condition. For other lighting condition you will need to know what they are. One can do this well but needs a lot of practice.
4. You can use an exposure meter instead of the sunny 16 rule. Almost all cameras today have a built in meter that you can use. A handheld meter is also good to have.

So the important is you must know the subject brightness before you can apply the exposure triangle.

G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK

inbigd wrote:

When you are shooting in different lighting conditions, to get different results, what is the logic you use to determine the camera settings?

I know the sunny 16 rule but where I struggle is, for example, when it's dusk outside. How do you determine that the ISO should be 400 instead of 800 or the shutter speed should be 1/3 instead of 1/8 or aperture should be f 2.8 instead of f4?

Also, please suggest any books that have helped you.

thanks

Don't follow 'rules'....most were made 50 years ago or more for film cameras.
Understand how your camera works.....
The lens determines what you photograph Wide, zoom etc It's native F range indicates how wide it will go (how much light it will let in).
The Fstop you choose in camera determines what is in focus and what isn't. (DOF) this is not determined by light...it is always your choice so choose well.
Shutter speed is determined by light through your lens having set the F stop and the ISO. That is the interesting point that all the fuss is about.
If you are in a dark place and the shutter speed is 25 seconds at ISO 100 then you need a tripod and remote. If you are in a bright place and the shutter speed is 1/250 at ISO 100 you can hold a short lens but not a large zoom.
Your option is to up the ISO until you get a speed high enough to accomplish what you are shooting and how you want it to look with the lens you have on the camera.
There is no logic.....photography is not logical all of the time else we would all have the same camera and lens combination.

Have fun

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

inbigd wrote:

When you are shooting in different lighting conditions, to get different results, what is the logic you use to determine the camera settings?

I know the sunny 16 rule but where I struggle is, for example, when it's dusk outside. How do you determine that the ISO should be 400 instead of 800 or the shutter speed should be 1/3 instead of 1/8 or aperture should be f 2.8 instead of f4?

Also, please suggest any books that have helped you.

thanks

InbigD, forget the sunny rule, that's why your camera has a light meter built into it....., use it!!!
If you are outdoors, unless it's sports or at night, I'm never over ISO 100.
Are you trying to shoot Manual? If so, why?
Even on Manual, just CHIMP!!! LoL
What else is there??
No need to reinvent the wheel, just understand it and let your camera do its job. You can guide it by chimping. Good luck
SS

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

G Brown wrote:

There is no logic.....photography is not logical all of the time else we would all have the same camera and lens combination.

You got it.

crazydaddio Loc: Toronto Ontario Canada

JPL wrote:

You decide the aperture based on how much of your ... (show quote)

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

G Brown wrote:

...photography is not logical all of the time else we would all have the same camera and lens combination.

Photography is purely logical all of the time. We don't all want to take the same picture, to shoot at the same time, in the same light etc etc, and hence we logically choose different cameras and lenses not to mention different settings even when two photogs with the same equipment stand side by side!

The tricks that experience teaches us are always just ways to logically get the particular image we want. Deciding what specific photograph we want is the area were logic is absent, but getting it requires logic.

johneccles Loc: Leyland UK

JPL has come up with an excellent suggestion, why not follow his advice for a good start.