Blown Out Highlights
Mar 28, 2017 15:08:35 #
HankR
Loc: So. East Florida
When shooting outdoors with very light (bright sky with white clouds or water reflection) and dark areas (bird in a shaded tree or jumping dark grey porpoises), what techniques do you use to prevent or minimize blown out highlights? Various techniques I’ve used and know of have not been satisfactory for JPEG and only post-processing of RAW seems to work well. For example, aperture priority setting and minus 2 stops exposure compensation then process to bring out the highlights; or a ND filter, but too difficult unless using a tripod for a still object as in shooting landscapes; or taking an exposure reading of the white clouds holding that setting and then move back to the subject and take the shot. I haven’t tried a rotating polarizer in this situation, have you, results? Thanks for the help. [Canon 5D MIV, EF 70-200 II F2.8 as my standard gear].
Mar 28, 2017 15:19:41 #
Raw at 14 bits or better, and PP at 16 bits is the best way to recover highlights and peek into shadows.
A jpg just doesn't have sufficient bits to avoid banding, other color distortions.
In my opinion.
A jpg just doesn't have sufficient bits to avoid banding, other color distortions.
In my opinion.
Mar 28, 2017 16:25:49 #
Thats a tough one. Your camera only has so much dynamic range, you are going to blow out or have jet black under-exposure or both. With still subjects, you may try HDR. Keep in mind that when the image on the back of the camera indicates you are blown out, you really may not be, provided you are shoot RAW.
Mar 28, 2017 17:04:46 #
Shoot raw, set Active D Lighting (with a Nikon), and expose to put you highlights at +1 stop.
Mar 28, 2017 17:12:59 #
The ND filter will not do squat as it just cuts all the light evenly. If you expose to reduce the light on the highlights, you will cut exactly the same light from the shadows, so no gain.
A 3 stop ND (for example) will give exactly the same results (in transmitted light) as going from 1/60 to 1/500 or F/4.0 to F/11. The advantage is that you can allow the same amount of light as F/11 without the increase in DOF. But killing blown highlights No.
A 3 stop ND (for example) will give exactly the same results (in transmitted light) as going from 1/60 to 1/500 or F/4.0 to F/11. The advantage is that you can allow the same amount of light as F/11 without the increase in DOF. But killing blown highlights No.
Mar 28, 2017 17:31:24 #
HankR wrote:
When shooting outdoors with very light (bright sky... (show quote)
You could set up your camera, to show blown out high lights as "blinkies" (works for shadows too), or just check your histogram in situations like that and then adjust accordingly! It depends on what you're shooting, but if the situation allows for it, use a grad ND to even out the contrast!
Mar 28, 2017 19:10:40 #
HankR
Loc: So. East Florida
Thanks all, I surrender.
Histogram review, adjust, re-shoot (if subject will allow), and post-processing seems to be the smartest moves. If shooting JPEG, the Auto Lighting Optimizer can be enabled and post-"adjusted" as much as possible,
http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/digital_camera_features/auto_lighting_optimizer.
Histogram review, adjust, re-shoot (if subject will allow), and post-processing seems to be the smartest moves. If shooting JPEG, the Auto Lighting Optimizer can be enabled and post-"adjusted" as much as possible,
http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/digital_camera_features/auto_lighting_optimizer.
Mar 29, 2017 06:15:11 #
katastrofa
Loc: London, UK
Is the old rule that it's better to under-expose than to over-expose still valid?
Mar 29, 2017 06:33:30 #
In situations where the sky may be blown out then under-exposure is worth it. Shooting in jpeg and RAW may assist because you can often recover what may seem to be a lost cause from the RAW file. It's also well worth considering bracketing.
katastrofa wrote:
Is the old rule that it's better to under-expose than to over-expose still valid?
Mar 29, 2017 06:35:26 #
katastrofa
Loc: London, UK
I mostly do bird photography, so bracketing not an option (unless it's an ex-parrot)...
Mar 29, 2017 06:58:21 #
HankR wrote:
When shooting outdoors with very light (bright sky... (show quote)
I used a CPL on Montezuma Castle not too long ago. The dwellings are in the shade but the sky was bright as were the face cliffs but the sky was getting washed out. The CPL solved the problem with good shadow detail and a sky that was actually blue and not white.
Mar 29, 2017 07:42:28 #
Mar 29, 2017 08:07:38 #
HankR wrote:
When shooting outdoors with very light (bright sky... (show quote)
When I have extremes of bright and dark in a scene, I expose for the subject and correct as best I can in processing. Using LR, you can get dramatic highlight reduction with the Highlight slider. It can make a dramatic difference in the sky.
Mar 29, 2017 08:09:05 #
DMGill wrote:
Shoot raw, set Active D Lighting (with a Nikon), and expose to put you highlights at +1 stop.
Active D lighting has no effect on a raw. There may be a slight change in exposure, but that's it.
Mar 29, 2017 08:12:12 #
jerryc41 wrote:
When I have extremes of bright and dark in a scene, I expose for the subject and correct as best I can in processing. Using LR, you can get dramatic highlight reduction with the Highlight slider. It can make a dramatic difference in the sky.
I do something different: I expose for the brightest highlight I don't want blown (obviously the sun or bright lights are going to be blown) and let the rest sort itself out. If the overall exposure on the subject is dark, then I use PP to bring up the dark areas (I shoot only raw). I'm lucky to have a Nikon, because I can recover shadow detail up to 5 EV underexposed with minimal added shadow noise. Canon shooters are not so fortunate. I know, because I also shoot Canon.
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.