cjc2
Loc: Hellertown PA
When shooting sports action, it is not absolutely necessary that everything in the frame be tack sharp as you may also want to display motion, which fuzzy things can do. For example, when I photograph a batter hitting a ball, I think my best shots are when the ball is shown streaking away from the bat and I often slow down my shutter just to capture that. For things like sliding into a base, I prefer sharpness, except for the flying dirt, but you can slow down just a bit to show more action. Sometimes there if a fine line between a bad shot and a great one. When you can show something happening and have a nice face, those are usually the keepers. Experiment a bit and see both what works best for you, and what you like best. To see what sells, get a subscription to Sports Illustrated. Best of luck.
rmalarz wrote:
That would require a slower shutter speed, which would exacerbate the blurred hands and feet issue. To avoid that, a higher ISO would be required. Depending on the camera's propensity for noise at that higher ISO, that may defeat the clarity of the overall image.
--Bob
Totally agree. Change of aperture, even with higher ISO will not affect motion blur.
I want to thank all of you who have commented and given me suggestions for my next action shots. I've only been doing this for about 16 months so I can use all the help I can get.
Fran
Fran
I live near u if u want more help
bdk
Loc: Sanibel Fl.
I would go to 1/1200 and I would go from F2.8 to maybe F8 to eliminate any blur caused by DOF at the 2.8 and then bump the ISO up more.
Thanks for the compliment.
BassmanBruce wrote:
I think your shots are very well done, hands etc. are not an issue for me in these shots as they just aren't important to the scene.
Will be watching to see other comments.
Thanks so much for compliment
Fran
cjc2
Loc: Hellertown PA
bdk wrote:
I would go to 1/1200 and I would go from F2.8 to maybe F8 to eliminate any blur caused by DOF at the 2.8 and then bump the ISO up more.
As a professional sports action photographer, I respectfully disagree. Most great sports action shots are made wide open, with very shallow Depth-of-field. Check out the photos in Sports Illustrated to get an idea of what you should try to emulate. Best of luck.
I agree
Been shoting sports for 40 years
F2.8 always. Boost iso. Keep shutter at least 1/1000
Always wide open
cjc2
Loc: Hellertown PA
photomarkz wrote:
I agree
Been shoting sports for 40 years
F2.8 always. Boost iso. Keep shutter at least 1/1000
Always wide open
Thank you. With practice, you can also learn to shoot under that magic shutter speed of 1/focal length, upon occasion, which will yield some motion blur of hands, feet and balls. Using my 400/2.8, under the lights, I will often shoot at 1/250 to hold the ISO down, although, I will admit, with the newer cameras like the D4s and the D5, I do let the ISO go higher. Not every shot is a keeper, but I normally obtain the shots I'm looking for and my lens does not have any VR. Remember, the fun of photography, especially when it comes to digital, is having the freedom to try new things and see if they work for you. I've always said there is no one right way! Best of luck.
One more quick question... when determining the auto focus area mode in sports photography how do you determine the number of points (9 v 21 v 51) to select? Do you use the 3D tracking?
Fran
Ben's nana wrote:
This was taken at 1/800, f2.8, ISO 2000. Flash was not an option as it was a competition. So here is my problem:
The movement was in 2 directions: vertical fall and rotation. So I feel good about the face and torso, but the hands and feet are blurry, especially the second one. Most of my diving pictures have a similar issue. Any recommendation?
Thanks in advance
Fran
Speaking artistically; a slight bit of motion blur shows movement and adds to the static subject.
cjc2
Loc: Hellertown PA
Ben's nana wrote:
One more quick question... when determining the auto focus area mode in sports photography how do you determine the number of points (9 v 21 v 51) to select? Do you use the 3D tracking?
Fran
I'm assuming from your nomenclature that you're talking about a Nikon camera, but which model? There is a decent article, buried on the Nikon Technical Support site, that discusses this very issue with some advantages of each method by type of sport. I'd suggest you download and read it to start. If you can't find it on your own, call Nikon Technical Support and ask that they forward a copy to you. To answer your question without all the facts about which body you're using, I use Group Focus which is one of the biggest reasons I use the bodies that I do. I use a D5, combined with a D500, for sports action. Best of luck.
cjc2
Loc: Hellertown PA
photomarkz wrote:
51 points
Way too big of an area IMHO. YMMV.
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