stevetassi

Is anyone on UHH familiar/used the Flashpoint Streaklights? I'm considering the 360 w/s version. Any thoughts? Would you recommend them for mobile photographic lighting? Thanks.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Been lookin' at that myself.
I'll be watching for comments.

aflundi Loc: Albuquerque, NM

It's a very good strobe, especially if you don't bother with the native mount attachments and use the Godox S-type bracket so you can use Bowens mount modifiers.

It's biggest (and perhaps only) drawback is that it doesn't have a modeling light.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Love that mount....I have Bowens monolights and a lot of accessories that fit.

mrtobin Loc: North East Ohio

And how it compares with other "bare bulb" flashes, such as the quatum Q flash, probably the most expensive, and the other less expensive brands.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Absolutely, they are the closest thing to strobes!! Many times as powerful as a speedlight!!!

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

You just use the strob-setting like on any speedlight, and there you have your modeling light!

aflundi Loc: Albuquerque, NM

Aaaa, ..., they are *not* the closest thing to strobes; they *are* strobes. They are strobes that happen to have a shape similar to a speedlight, but that is only the outside packaging. Internally, they are strobes just like the those with the more conventional form factor. I've run into people that think the separate battery pack is optional, and that the main unit holds batteries like speedlights, but they are wrong.

To anyone interested in them, know that the Godox AD360 and AD360II, no matter how they are rebranded, are very, very popular -- for good reason, and have been for years. Both versions do HSS, and the newer II version does TTL, but, unfortunately, neither have a modeling light.

It may not be obvious if you haven't played with studio portraits, but a modeling light is *really* useful for the key/main light -- to the point of being almost a necessity, so if you want to use this for a main light, this may not be the best choice unless you are willing to wing it, or rig a DIY modeling light insert. But for a fill light, or any of the other lights, this is a superb choice. Of course there are other, non-portrait, uses for strobes too that this would also be excellent for.

Rick36203 Loc: Northeast Alabama

I just bought the Streaklight 360 from Adorama about a week ago. I haven't had too much time to play with it yet. I bought the manual version. They had it with a battery pack and R1 controller/receiver for $299. They also sell it as a standalone product, but it is useless without the required external battery.

They have more expensive models that are Nikon and Canon TTL compatible, but I rarely use TTL for flash.

Even the manual model is HSS capable if you use HSS capable transceivers. I tested it using my yn-622n transceivers. It was able to cleanly sync at 1/4000 (max shutter for my D750).

Although larger than any speedlight I've seen, it's still more portable than my Paul C Buff monolights (since I don't have the Vagabond battery).

It does need a speedlight adapter speedring for softboxes. I already owned two different types. The Bowen's S mount type allows the bare bulb to fit further inside a softbox.

It gives plenty of light with it's 360ws/56m(iso100, 28mm) guide number. I hope to try it out a bit more in the near future. It has already caused more g.a.s. problems. I bought the two to one power cord adapter for the power pack. I have a fresnel spot attachment on the way, and I'm waiting for a long throw reflector to be re-stocked at B&H.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I do know about the usefulness of a modeling light, and you can have that with any speedlight (although it is for a very short time). To similate a modeling light, if working with my speedlights, I just push the DOF preview button and that gives me roughly 2 seconds of modeling light on my subject (it's short, but most times just enough to get a good evaluation)!

aflundi Loc: Albuquerque, NM

Years ago, I used to bring this up as well. I don't any more because now I think it's pretty much a useless gimick.

You want to turn the modeling light on, then while watching the face, move the light stand right, left, closer, further, raise the height, lower it, tilt it more or less, etc. as you watch how the shadows fall on the face. You need at least a few minutes continuous modeling. The few seconds that some speedlights give you is only enough time for you to verify that the placement you guessed blind was correct. But a test picture will tell you that much better. Sorry, but speedlight pulsed-light modeling is a non-feature as far as I'm concerned.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I know, but it works in a pinch!