saltysarge wrote:
Can some give me a SIMPLE explanation between JPEG and RAW?
A raw file contains a digitized version of EVERYTHING the sensor saw. ALL other image file formats are CONVERSIONS of that raw data, including the ones you view on a computer monitor or the back of your camera. You can create JPEGs in the camera, OR in post-processing software.
Therein lies the rub... Raw files are completely proprietary. No two camera manufacturers use the same raw file format. So all conversion programs must be equipped with a "raw profile" that describes each camera model's file format, and what's in it (usually the raw data, EXIF data (metadata, or data about data), and a preview JPEG (used to display the image on the camera LCD, AND, in some operating systems). That raw profile also tells the software the parameters of the hardware, such as color response gamut.
JPEG is an international standard image file format that has been around for decades. It is a format that uses lossy compression to make the file size smaller, so the file can be sent quickly over the Internet, LAN, or other network, and so it doesn't take up a lot of storage space. Nearly all cameras, photo labs, and software can deal with JPEGs. When used intelligently, JPEGs can result in extremely high quality images. But when compressed too much, or saved and re-saved multiple times, the quality deteriorates rapidly.
Again, raw is proprietary. It must be read and converted to an image in software. The result can be exported as TIFF, PNG, JPEG, BMP, or any standard image file format supported by the raw processor. When a raw file is opened, the software either applies the menu settings used by the camera to make the preview JPEG, OR software defaults, OR YOUR defaults, if you have entered them into the software. You can get infinite different "looks" from the same raw file!
Before a camera saves a JPEG, it creates a bitmap image, processed with the parameters you set in the camera's menus (Picture Style, Hue, Contrast, Color Tone, Sharpness, White Balance, and many more, depending on the camera). Then it converts the color of the image from the raw format to either sRGB (recommended for most uses) or Adobe RGB (for specialized, high-end uses only). It also converts it from the 14-bit or 12-bit sensor data to 8-bit data. Then, it compresses the file using the menu specifications you set for your JPEG output. Finally, of course, it saves the file.
Along the way, a lot of information that was present in the raw file is discarded. If you want to edit the color, brightness, white balance, or other parameters of the image at a later date, you have MUCH LESS to work with at that time.
The exact same thing happens in a software raw converter, but the difference is, you never actually change the raw file itself! You always export a copy of that data that has been converted to an image and processed. If there is an option to "save" a raw image, it is only saving a sidecar "recipe" for the conversion you've done. The raw data remains intact. Opening the image again opens the sidecar information, processes the raw data again, and displays it once again.
JPEG can be thought of as an image distribution file format. Raw is like a color negative... All the potential is still there. (But it's better, because dyes in negatives fade pretty rapidly! Numbers don't change.)
You CAN post-process JPEG images. But you have MUCH LESS LATITUDE to do so. So unless you really know your camera well, and want to use the discipline it takes at the camera to get the exposure perfect, the white balance just the way you want it, and all the other image quality parameters just the way you want THEM, it is much easier to save raw files and tweak the results in post-production. The down side of that is that you MUST do post-production (at least a default image file format conversion).
If you MUST edit a JPEG that is really important, consider doing this, an old trick from my days working in a lab with 100% JPEG workflow:
Open the JPEG in an advanced editor.
Convert the JPEG to a 16-bit TIFF file.
Convert the sRGB or Adobe RGB profile to ProPhoto RGB profile, if that is your working profile
Edit the file's image quality parameters, saving the TIFF in a lossless format (no compression, or LZW compression) as needed.
Retouch, add layers, add text, and do whatever other image manipulation you need to do, while the image is still a TIFF.
When you're done with everything, save the TIFF.
Convert the TIFF back to sRGB profile, then back to 8-bits.
Finally, save the file as a JPEG, at a high quality (minimal compression) setting.
Conversion to 16-bits adds NOTHING. But it makes *adjustments* smoother. Try it.