Dr Rae Loc: Sarasota Florida

My camera pop up flash is triggering the umbrella light flash. If that is too strong what do I do? I can't control the pop up flash and I don't have a speedlight.

hlmichel Loc: New Hope, Minnesota

Isn't it odd, that the shadow on the shirt in the first two starts at the same height as the pencil that appears to be part of the chair?

hlmichel Loc: New Hope, Minnesota

What camera are you shooting with? I can control the flash output on my d3000.

Does your umbrella light have a modeling light?

Dr Rae Loc: Sarasota Florida

I have a Canon 20d. Yes, there is a modeling light. Should I use that instead of the strobe?

hlmichel Loc: New Hope, Minnesota

No, use the modeling light to ensure that your lighting is good and then you should get more predictable results.

You should be able to adjust your flash power by holding the -+ button while turning the wheel.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Yae, that was my first observation too, but it's on the wrong side and wrong plane to cause the shadow.
And as hlmichel said, crank the camera's flash power down.

Might have a peek at Adorama's website.
They have video tutorials on lighting.
This one explains the difference between an umbrella and a softbox, but you might get an idea about placement:
http://www.adorama.com/alc/0013691/article/Light-Modifiers-AdoramaTV

Any chance of postng a photo of your set-up? ie: back off so we can see placement of your lights, etc?

Dr Rae Loc: Sarasota Florida

Background is 4 feet from the pencil chair, pencil chair is 4-5 feet from the light. Ceilings are only 7ft. It's a very small space.Sorry so blurry, handheld and taken quickly, you get the idea

Dr Rae Loc: Sarasota Florida

I found out how to make the adjustment. Didn't know I could do that. Thanks!

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

[quote=Dr Rae]
Background is 4 feet from the pencil chair, pencil chair is 4-5 feet from the light. Ceilings are only 7ft. It's a very small space.
quote]

This is fine. First thing to do is get that pop-up flash powered down. Find the manual control for that and then you could probably re-direct it by shaping some foil in front of it so that only a little bit of light gets out and goes somewhere other than the subject. Slave sensors are pretty sensitive in small rooms. You may need a bit of fill from the opposite side of your subject to give some detail to the shadows. Foamcore is cheap and works well. The closer to the light, the more fill you will have. You don't want to have the light ratios even- that's for doing copy work.

Dr Rae Loc: Sarasota Florida

[quote=GoofyNewfie]

Ok, thanks so much for taking your time to help me out!

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Or a reflector but yes, you need two light sources and the cheapest way is to reflect the one light source you have already.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

With the subject facing mostly camera left, I'd be tempted to light that side with the umbrella (Looks like a Larson reflectasol) and use fill on camera right...or just turn the chair. The closer you get the light to the subject, the softer the light will be because it will be a bigger. Personally, I ususally like to use a softbox, or sometimes a shoot-through umbrella on location because you CAN get the light closer.

Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio

Lots of rules with lighting but to begin with just be sure to do this. Think of a post coming out of subjects head which is 45 degrees to one side (say left as you view them) and also 45 degrees above their head. Now place your light source on the end of this imaginary pole sticking out their head and always use this for starters.

See what the light looks like and prevent your pop up flash from falling on your subject, so hold a piece of card in front of it when you shoot. Now add a reflector to the right side of the subject (as you view them) and play with the distance to the head to see what effect you are getting with the reflected light to fill the shadow.

You don't want too much light filling in the shadow, just not too little either.

Don't go with the suggestion of using two light sources each at 45 degrees to the subject in front, this is wrong advice for a classic portrait lighting set up unless you know all about fill light ratios etc. which I'm sure you do not. If you add a second light, place it behind and opposite to the main light source and high up. That way you will get a back/rim light which will enhance your portrait shot.

Dr Rae Loc: Sarasota Florida

Ok, I will try this. Thank you for taking the time to comment!

HazyJ Loc: Higham Ferrrers, Northamptonshire, UK

If you intend to do a fair amount of studio work, it might be worth looking on e-bay for a radio trigger for you strobe. They can be bought for less than $50. They consist of a receiver that plugs into the strobe and a trigger device that fits on your hot shoe.

I would then experiment with your single strobe and a white or silver reflector. Move them both around and see what the results look like. 30º to 45º above and to one side for the light and the same on the opposite side but slightly below for the reflector is a good start.

You can control the exposure by altering the power of the strobe or bringing it closer or further away. Without a light meter, you can use your histogram on the camera to judge when you have the exposure correct.