A water droplet on the lens filter. That's all it is. To avoid this from occurring again, inspect your filter/lens periodically to make sure there are no smudges or water drops on it. Personally, I like to keep a lens cap on whenever I'm not shooting.
Thank you I will check it out. Yes I think I need to get rid of the filter it is inexpensive and I was just using to protect my lens since I'm pretty clumsy
Filters are known for causing light reflections, depending of course on the light coming into the lens. A lens hood is your friend. The cheaper the filter, the worse it can be, and the more it can degrade images.
FWIW - take a look at this post on Flicker regarding filter reflections.
That's the reason why I don't use a UV filter. I've caught a few reflections myself caused by the UV filter. How did I know it was from the filter? I had a hunch it was the UV filter. I removed the filter and reshot. The reflection disappeared. The only time I'd use a UV filter is when I'm on a beach to protect the lens from salt spray.
That's the reason why I don't use a UV filter. I've caught a few reflections myself caused by the UV filter. How did I know it was from the filter? I had a hunch it was the UV filter. I removed the filter and reshot. The reflection disappeared. The only time I'd use a UV filter is when I'm on a beach to protect the lens from salt spray.
I hear ya ;) I got rid of all my cheap UV Filters and shoot with the lens glass only - I believe that additional glass only degrades the light and resulting image - for a nasty environment I will put a clear or UV filter on a lens, especially in blowing sand or dirt.
Gene51Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
dvier wrote:
Thanks I thought it downloaded
It's not hard to fix.
This is after about 3 mins with a brush in color blend mode to get the correct color in the flare, and with a 50% gray layer in overlay mode and a black brush to do some non-destructive burning in.
Stuff happens, and you just need to learn how to deal with it. BTW, this is a blog post I did in 2012 on exactly this kind of flare.
This is after about 3 mins with a brush in color blend mode to get the correct color in the flare, and with a 50% gray layer in overlay mode and a black brush to do some non-destructive burning in.
Stuff happens, and you just need to learn how to deal with it. BTW, this is a blog post I did in 2012 on exactly this kind of flare.
I hear ya ;) I got rid of all my cheap UV Filters and shoot with the lens glass only - I believe that additional glass only degrades the light and resulting image - for a nasty environment I will put a clear or UV filter on a lens, especially in blowing sand or dirt.
Gene51Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
dvier wrote:
Oh wow!! Thanks I have a lot to learn. It looks so much better
Thanks! The link goes into a detailed, step by step appproach to analyzing your flare issue, and at least one approach to fixing it that does not include using the clone tool.
Gene51Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
Gene51 wrote:
Thanks! The link goes into a detailed, step by step appproach to analyzing your flare issue, and at least one approach to fixing it that does not include using the clone tool.
For the record, I have UV filters on most of my lenses, with the exception of my PC-E lenses which would vignette if I left a filter on and the longer zooms and primes - 100-300 F4, 150-600 F6.3 and the 600F4 - all of which have filter sizes that would require prohibitively expensive filters. I have saved myself $$$$ by having filters on my lenses as a result of drops or knocks which broke a filter and not the filter thread or the lens itself. I had one incident recently, using a 24 PC-E that was not protected by a filter and it cost me $450 to have the filter thread replaced. Ugh . . .
For the record, I have UV filters on most of my lenses, with the exception of my PC-E lenses which would vignette if I left a filter on and the longer zooms and primes - 100-300 F4, 150-600 F6.3 and the 600F4 - all of which have filter sizes that would require prohibitively expensive filters. I have saved myself $$$$ by having filters on my lenses as a result of drops or knocks which broke a filter and not the filter thread or the lens itself. I had one incident recently, using a 24 PC-E that was not protected by a filter and it cost me $450 to have the filter thread replaced. Ugh . . .
For the record, I have UV filters on most of my le... (show quote)
That was my reason for using the filter but I have noticed this on several shots so I think I will try it without one for now