Camillia
Jan 6, 2017 13:46:40 #
Just getting into macro and this is my first post. Shot on a tripod with Nikon d7100 + Nikkor 105mm, 2.8 at ISO100, f/22, 1/320s with flash to shut out ambient light. Comments pro and con are welcome. Aside from cleaning up a couple of spots on the blossom, this image is SOOC.
Jan 6, 2017 14:32:04 #
Very good, and welcome! I like also that your signature matches the flower. That is a nice touch.
Jan 6, 2017 14:34:52 #
Jan 6, 2017 14:44:26 #
I'm glad to see some more flower pics here. I think they are fascinating. Very nice shot.
Jan 6, 2017 14:48:57 #
Thanks Bob.
You'd think living in Florida I would find lots of insects to shoot. But so far, I haven't. Maybe not looking in the right spots. Flower photography is my passion.
You'd think living in Florida I would find lots of insects to shoot. But so far, I haven't. Maybe not looking in the right spots. Flower photography is my passion.
Jan 6, 2017 17:06:18 #
You might want to consider joining the The Exploration of Digital Artistry group on UHH. Lots of flower photos. Some styles I like more than others, but all are interesting and well done.
Jan 6, 2017 19:54:22 #
Took a look and it is, for the most part, not to my liking. That caused me to take a look at the Closeup group and I found that more to my liking and subscribed. Thanks for the suggestion.
Jan 7, 2017 01:13:22 #
I do have a few suggestions:
1.) Small aperture diffraction will markedly erode your Image Quality (IQ) at f/22 or smaller. For single image captures (non-stacking), I strongly suggest that you shoot at f/16;
2.) This image could very well have been captured hand-held, allowing much more flexibility on your part for composition, angle-to-flower, etc.
3.) Diffused speedlight illumination will soften shadow edges, and lighten the shadows (this will require an increase in speedlight output);
4.) A true 1:1 magnification macro-photograph is captured with lens set to Minimum Focusing Distance. This image looks more like a close-up rather than MFD.
and a few questions:
a.) Which speedlight are you using?
b.) Was your lens set to MFD?
c.) You already own the major components for excellent macro-photography. Are you considering adding a bracket, a softbox diffuser, a ball-mount extender, & a TTL cord?
Read more here: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-5.html#2585532
1.) Small aperture diffraction will markedly erode your Image Quality (IQ) at f/22 or smaller. For single image captures (non-stacking), I strongly suggest that you shoot at f/16;
2.) This image could very well have been captured hand-held, allowing much more flexibility on your part for composition, angle-to-flower, etc.
3.) Diffused speedlight illumination will soften shadow edges, and lighten the shadows (this will require an increase in speedlight output);
4.) A true 1:1 magnification macro-photograph is captured with lens set to Minimum Focusing Distance. This image looks more like a close-up rather than MFD.
and a few questions:
a.) Which speedlight are you using?
b.) Was your lens set to MFD?
c.) You already own the major components for excellent macro-photography. Are you considering adding a bracket, a softbox diffuser, a ball-mount extender, & a TTL cord?
Read more here: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-5.html#2585532
Jan 7, 2017 09:46:37 #
Thanks for all the interesting suggestions. The MFD for the 105mm 2.8 Nikkor is 12 inches. Unfortunately I was not able to position my tripod to get a shot at 12 inches so moved it back to about 18 inches or perhaps a bit less. My flash is a Nikon SB-700 fired on manual at 1/8 power mounted to the camera's hot shoe. I also used the stock diffuser mounted to the light. I agree with your suggestion of hand holding to get a different perspective. In this case I was experimenting to see if I could get the entire image in focus without the need to stack. I think I was successful in that regard. Next time out I'll experiment with a variety of f/stops. Lots to learn about this genre. Again, thanks for your comments.
Jan 7, 2017 15:04:47 #
Bunkershot wrote:
Focusing Distance is measured from sensor plane to subject; Working Distance is measured from lens front element to subject.The MFD for the 105mm 2.8 Nikkor is 12 inches.
Macro-photographers are more concerned with Minimum Working Distance to acheive 1:1 magnification, than MFD. (A Nikkor 105mm macro lens has a MWD of 157-mm = 6.2-inches)
Your Nikon SB-700 with a 6x8-inch softbox diffuser is capable of macro illumination. The SB-600 and the SB-700 are the same size.
Nikon SB-600 & Softbox Diffuser
Jan 7, 2017 15:47:59 #
Nikonian72 wrote:
So, if my lens is 4.6 inches long and the Minimum Focus Distance is 12 inches, then I should be able to put the front of my lens 7.4 inches from the subject and have it in focus. I just tested that and I got a measurement of roughly 7 inches from the front of the lens, which would be the Minimum Working Distance. My working distance yesterday was something less than 18-inches; clearly a Close Up, not a Macro. Focusing Distance is measured from sensor plane to subject; Working Distance is measured from lens front element to subject.
Thanks, I just learned something. That's what I love about this forum.
Jan 7, 2017 17:29:43 #
Bunkershot wrote:
It is a nice photo though. Well done. Macro is hard,but a lot of fun.My working distance yesterday was something less than 18-inches; clearly a Close Up, not a Macro.
Jan 7, 2017 19:37:43 #
RWCRNC wrote:
Thanks RWCRNCIt is a nice photo though. Well done. Macro is hard,but a lot of fun.
Jan 12, 2017 11:27:48 #
Bunkershot wrote:
hey hey, gotta start somewhere, welcome to the asylum, the longer your in this hobby the more bugs you'll start seeing, (you'll also see a lot of bird poop after you get the shots in the computer You'd think living in Florida I would find lots of insects to shoot. But so far, I haven't. Maybe not looking in the right spots. Flower photography is my passion.
) adding a flash and getting the camera off the tripod will increase your keeper rate by a large margin.
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