Preachdude Loc: Geneva, OH

In the last couple of years, I have begun making stitched panoramic landscape images. Each of the separate images I make is bracketed +/- two stops. I take one image set, determine the best Photomatix setting for the overall landscape, and then I process each of those bracketed sets using the same Photomatix settings. Once each set has been merged, I then stitch the sets together using Microsoft's ICE (Image Composite Editor). On my last travel junket, I used a 35mm lens to shoot in vertical/portrait position each of the bracketed sets. Also, I was using a Sony RX-1Rii, shooting manually with auto-iso. I'm always looking for ways to improve my techniques. I'm including a stitched image with this posting.

I'd like feedback from other UHH folks as to their techniques, and the advantages and disadvantages of their techniques. So far, I've only attempted stitching a single row of images, but if any of you have stitched multiple rows of images, I'd like to hear your feedback. If I stitch two rows, would I be better off using a lens in the 50-90mm full-frame range?

In my next travel junket, I plan on shooting some stitched landscape astro-photography images without star trails. Have any of you attempted bracketing of your night photography?

(Download)

donrosshill Loc: Delaware & Florida

Thanks for the lesson. You have given me inspiration to attempt a few of these myself.
Don

DRG777 Loc: Metro Detroit

I do panos with Photoshop Elements. Usually I just do a single row, vertical or horizontal. I have done some multiple rows, but you get more distortion. After a few years, I got a full frame body with a 16-35mm zoom to increase the angle of my original shots,

photophile Loc: Lakewood, Ohio, USA

Nicely blended.

DWU2 Loc: Phoenix Arizona area

Lightroom does a good job of stitching panos.

BassmanBruce Loc: Middle of the Mitten

I like your choice of composition in this shot.
As to your question, I have done several stitched milky way panos. I have a 30mm f1.4 sigma that isn't really wide enough and take three or four shots in landscape orientation stacked vertically. It works well and is fairly easy. I use PSE 13.
Also, you probably already know this but there is an astrophotography section on the hog with some very helpfull folks.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

One way to improve, is to get away from using the same setting for each panorama (why, that makes no sense???)!!! Whenever I shoot panos, I do not bracket at al! I shoot in manual and I do not change any settings between shots, but I use different settings for each panorama (according to the image)!!

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

About 14 years ago, a friend of mine and I wrote our own pano software. It was written to work with scanned film and thus uses some interesting analysis algorithms. It worked quite well and I've yet to see any software that inspires me to move away from what we wrote.
--Bob

big-guy Loc: Peterborough Ontario Canada

Very nicely done and in this case the auto ISO was with you. However, if you have any exposure control set to auto you are not in true manual. I would recommend visually panning your scene and watching the exposure needle to see how much it varies as you swing right, left, up or down. Set your SS, Aperture and ISO to a middle ground of what you just saw and leave them locked. Then set your bracketing and go from there. That auto ISO (aperture or SS) can bite you in the arse and more times than not, there's no going back for a redo.

When planning a multi row pano make sure to overlap your images vertically AND horizontally by 33-50%. When using a wide angle move to the 50% mark to help eliminate distortion and a telephoto can use 33%.

As to the astro-photography bracketing is not recommended simply because your exposure times will be too long and by the time you do each bracket portion, the stars will have moved significantly and will not align properly. Based on an average shutter time of 20 seconds plus a 1 second delay, your "-" would be 5+1 seconds and your "+" would be 80+1 seconds for a total of 1 minute 48 seconds. The stars will move significantly in that time. Ultimately you will have black skies and white stars to contend with. A separate shot can be done of the foreground (if you have some) to blend in PP.

Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA

Panos was a "to learn project" for me and I found it quite interesting and challenging for me and my limited equipment. First was getting the pivot point correct- then like you said set the camera manually for reasons you point out. Personally I find bracketing a waste of time as a quick tweek with "brightness & contrast" in PP gives me what I want- usually. The overlap is essential I generally do 25-30 % .
Just my 2 cents on a fun adventure in photography.
Harvey in the Sierras

treadwl Loc: South Florida

I have done several double row panoramas. If you check the link below you will see a 12 photo stitch. This is two rows of 6 shots with the camera positioned in the normal position (landscape) These were stitched in Lightroom 6

https://reminisces.smugmug.com/organize/FloridaandtheEverglades/May-Scenics-in-the-Everglades/i-5TrjHfq

sailorsmom Loc: Souderton, PA

Beautiful, Preachdude, and very well done!

big-guy Loc: Peterborough Ontario Canada

Impressive!

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

I've stitched together as many as six images - arranged in a 3x2 grid. The important thing is to lock focus and exposure settings; you have to plan out what you want the final image to look like beforehand.

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

If you are doing a lot of panos, maybe you should look into a panoramic head so you shift on the nodal point of your lens. You can keep your horizons level and there isn't any distortion or mismatches on the overlaps. With that, I use a 50mm lens so the lens doesn't introduce any lens distortion. You just need to take a few more individual shots to capture the same view. 35mm would be the widest I would even think to use as a last option. Full manual settings on your camera with no changes between exposure group. Sometimes I bracket, but usually not for HDR processing.