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Mode you use the most
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Nov 30, 2016 12:52:06   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
There is also Depth of Focus. This is not used as often as Depth of Field. So Depth of Field is the more common reference.
--Bob


[quote=bentrider]
DirtFarmer wrote:
DOF is Depth Of Field, the region of the photo that's in focus. Large apertures (small numbers) have a shallow DOF and small apertures (large numbers) have larger DOF.

Of course, it stands for Depth of Field. If I'd thought of that a little while, I would have figured that out. Yes, large apertures give a shallow DOF.

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Nov 30, 2016 13:04:37   #
Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga
 
The answer is "it depends".... When I'm shooting macro it's manual. When shooting other types of photography, it's usually Aperture or Shutter priority depending on my needs. If I hand my camera over to my wife, it's "auto".... LOL

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Nov 30, 2016 13:19:35   #
Retired fat guy with a camera Loc: Colorado
 
Use what you feel comfortable with. Experiment with the rest. Do not be so busy and worried about what mode your camera is in that you miss a great shot.

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Nov 30, 2016 13:50:08   #
markngolf Loc: Bridgewater, NJ
 
Canon here, but question is still relevant. I vary - mostly manual, shutter & aperture frequently, occasionally even auto. My use varies with venues and available light.
Mark
bentrider wrote:
I've got a lot of questions, so here I go with my Post #2 on this Forum.

Which shooting mode do you use the most? I have a Nikon D7100. It features Programmed mode, Shutter mode, Aperture mode, and Manual. We don't even need to talk about Programmed, I think that's for beginners. I mainly use Aperture mode. But somewhere I read that to really learn photography, you should use Manual almost exclusively.

Of course, Shutter mode is the right one for certain situations, like freezing the action.

My D7100 also has a "Scenes" mode, but I also think that's for beginners or for situations where you don't have a lot of time.

What do you think?
I've got a lot of questions, so here I go with my ... (show quote)

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Nov 30, 2016 14:14:39   #
Jerry Coupe Loc: Kent, WA
 
Many good comments above covering all angles of the discussion.
One additional point I would make about manual mode is that probably very few of us truly use full manual mode. When I select manual and set either a shutter speed or an aperature setting, in the view finder, I see and indicator of stops over or under exposed, and vary either shutter or aperature to get to the correct exposure. I doubt that many of us are good enough to set both shutter and aperature and click the shutter and come out with well exposed images. So essentially, we are using a second form of either shutter or aperature priority.

Going back to my first SLR, a Fujica in 1973, there was amatch needle in the view finder to assist with exposure setting. Also true of Pentax and Minolta camera of this time. Not sure about Nikons or Canons at this time. So even though I was physically setting both aperature and shutter settings, the match needle was a huge assist. The ASA rating of the film was similar to ISO.
The alternative is using a light meter and manual mode. Maybe the beat alternative.

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Nov 30, 2016 14:22:43   #
Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga
 
I use full manual for macro shooting as I also use additional lighting. I set the shutter speed to the sync speed, set the aperture to F11 or F16 & set the power ratio on the flash as needed. Sometimes I need to adjust the aperture setting on the lens (older manual focus lens) depending on the image captured, thus I do shoot on "full manual"
Jerry Coupe wrote:
Many good comments above covering all angles of the discussion.
One additional point I would make about manual mode is that probably very few of us truly use full manual mode. When I select manual and set either a shutter speed or an aperture setting, in the view finder, I see and indicator of stops over or under exposed, and vary either shutter or aperture to get to the correct exposure. I doubt that many of us are good enough to set both shutter and aperture and click the shutter and come out with well exposed images. So essentially, we are using a second form of either shutter or aperture priority.

Going back to my first SLR, a Fujica in 1973, there was match needle in the view finder to assist with exposure setting. Also true of Pentax and Minolta camera of this time. Not sure about Nikons or Canons at this time. So even though I was physically setting both aperture and shutter settings, the match needle was a huge assist. The ASA rating of the film was similar to ISO.
The alternative is using a light meter and manual mode. Maybe the beat alternative.
Many good comments above covering all angles of th... (show quote)

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Nov 30, 2016 14:40:16   #
pyroManiac Loc: HIXSON,TN
 
I USUALLY USE APERTURE MODE, F 5.6 unless I need a different DOF or say a slow shutter as in a waterfall. If the lighting is difficult, I go manual (spot reading).When flash is in use the camera automatically goes to manual and calculates proper exposure. I adjust for special needs via ISO adjustment. Whatever works for you and you feel the most comfortable ---use.

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Nov 30, 2016 14:49:55   #
Reinaldokool Loc: San Rafael, CA
 
bentrider wrote:
I've got a lot of questions, so here I go with my Post #2 on this Forum.

Which shooting mode do you use the most? I have a Nikon D7100. It features Programmed mode, Shutter mode, Aperture mode, and Manual. We don't even need to talk about Programmed, I think that's for beginners. I mainly use Aperture mode. But somewhere I read that to really learn photography, you should use Manual almost exclusively.

Of course, Shutter mode is the right one for certain situations, like freezing the action.

My D7100 also has a "Scenes" mode, but I also think that's for beginners or for situations where you don't have a lot of time.

What do you think?
I've got a lot of questions, so here I go with my ... (show quote)


Mostly I use Aperture mode or manual, but on several occasions, when I've messed up something in the menus and needed to get the shot, I have turned the dial to Auto. (I know, I'm hanging my head in shame.) The results have not been optimal but they were more than acceptable and I have cleaned up in postprocessing. At least I got a shot instead of spending five minutes figuring out what setting I missed. When the shot presents itself, you go with what works. It also helps that I shoot RAW. More latitude for later correction.

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Nov 30, 2016 15:02:33   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
I have a D7000 and I'm a Program mode guy. Most all my shots are of the snapshot variety. Program mode gives me the flexibility to adjust aperture or shutter as needed on the fly. And I have a U setting for Program mode plus Auto ISO to use in low light. I also stick with Matrix metering. I'd be using an advanced P&S with non-interchangeable lens but I like to use off camera flash, a macro lens, and a wide 10-20mm lens that my DSLR allows.

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Nov 30, 2016 15:50:51   #
cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA
 
amfoto1 wrote:
For me, it's sort of a toss up, depending upon the situation, lighting conditions and what I'm trying to achieve.... Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority and, whenever possible, Manual mode.

I usually leave the camera in Aperture Priority mode since depth of field is often my first and biggest concern.

But I keep a close eye on shutter speeds, too, and if needed to stop action, for example, I'll switch to Shutter Priority mode.

I prefer to use Manual whenever I can. That locks everything in solidly and prevents the exposures from varying wildly due to subject tonalities, strong specular highlights, backlit situations, etc.

I'd note that by "Manual" I don't mean Manual with Auto ISO. I mean strictly Manual.

Manual with Auto ISO is simply a fourth form of auto exposure (Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority and Program). Manual with Auto ISO has it's uses.

I cannot conceive of any good reason for combining Auto ISO with any of the other auto exposure modes... that would make for a double set of variables that's likely to make for less predictable results.

I occasionally use Program, too. No, it's not an "amateur mode". Mostly I just use it when shooting in one situation, then called upon to take a quick shot or two in a very different lighting condition, then return to the work I was doing. In those cases or perhaps when I don't have time to think about my settings and just need to get a shot really fast, I'll occasionally switch to Program. Doing this also allows me to switch back to whatever other mode I was using previously, and still have the settings that I'd set up in that mode.

So I probably use Aperture Priority a little more, but also fully Manual and Shutter Priority almost as much. I use Manual w/Auto ISO and Program the least often.

I never, ever use any of the "Scene modes"... on most cameras those not only choose one or another form of auto exposure, they also often limit other camera setup such as auto focus mode, the type of file being saved, the range of ISOs available, even override things like color saturation and contrast, etc. Scene modes are presets that are probably wrong as often as their right (the same is true of White Balance presets). I want to make my own choices with these things. Scene modes are sort of a carry-over from point-n-shoot cameras, I think. Among the Canon cameras I use, they are more prominent on entry level DSLRs and a lot less so on more pro-oriented models.

Full Auto ("A+" or "green box mode" on my Canon) is another mode I always avoid.... Like Scene modes, it goes way beyond just auto exposure, overriding a lot of things that I want to control myself. For example, in Full Auto or "Super Auto" mode you can't shoot RAW, can't use Exposure Compensation, are forced to use All Points/Auto Selection AF mode (which I almost never use), etc. Like Scene modes, it's probably setting the camera incorrectly as much or more often than it's setting it right!

Incidentally, TTL Flash with Manual camera exposure mode (Canon ETTL, Nikon iTTL, etc.) is a fifth form of auto exposure. With Canon, M + ETTL Flash is "Full Flash", while setting the camera to Av or Tv or P auto exposure modes with ETTL Flash automatically sets it to a "Fill Flash" mode. Both are auto exposure modes.... but in M + ETTL the camera treats the flash as the only light source and controls it's output. In Av, Tv or P + ETTL Flash, the camera sets exposure based on ambient light, as if the flash weren't there, then fires the flash as reduced power fill (usually -1.66 EV). When any flash set to ETTL is attached to the camera, Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) takes the place of and serves the same purpose as Exposure Compensation, a means of overriding and "tweaking" auto exposure settings. Flash Exposure Lock also works the same with ETTL flash, as AE Lock does with auto exposures without flash. The flashes also can be switched to fully Manual (most studio strobes also are fully Manual), which the user will need to set both camera, lens and flash output.
For me, it's sort of a toss up, depending upon the... (show quote)


Yup, with today's cameras you actually have to do some work to really get to manual mode, truly manual mode. I use that, sometimes, with indoor sports such as Basketball, Gymnastics, Wrestling, Volleyball -- you get the picture. In gyms where the lighting varies quite a bit, I will, most likely, add auto ISO but I will tightly control it. For Sports Action outdoors during the day I most always use Aperture Priority, and auto iso, but again I reign in my shutter and iso settings. I guess my answer is "it depends" but I try to keep as much control as I can. When shooting sports I almost always shoot wide open, otherwise these is little reason to spend the money on the big, fast glass. A lot of what I do comes from my gut and my experience. If I have never done something before, I'll experiment or try to get some practice beforehand. Best of luck.

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Nov 30, 2016 15:58:34   #
BebuLamar
 
Jerry Coupe wrote:
Many good comments above covering all angles of the discussion.
One additional point I would make about manual mode is that probably very few of us truly use full manual mode. When I select manual and set either a shutter speed or an aperature setting, in the view finder, I see and indicator of stops over or under exposed, and vary either shutter or aperature to get to the correct exposure. I doubt that many of us are good enough to set both shutter and aperature and click the shutter and come out with well exposed images. So essentially, we are using a second form of either shutter or aperature priority.

Going back to my first SLR, a Fujica in 1973, there was amatch needle in the view finder to assist with exposure setting. Also true of Pentax and Minolta camera of this time. Not sure about Nikons or Canons at this time. So even though I was physically setting both aperature and shutter settings, the match needle was a huge assist. The ASA rating of the film was similar to ISO.
The alternative is using a light meter and manual mode. Maybe the beat alternative.
Many good comments above covering all angles of th... (show quote)


I have done it very often now that I use digital. I can guess the exposure most of the time and preset it before raising the camera. Couple days ago I could even do it with manual flash just by guessing not even use the guide number and guide number was no good any way as I was bouncing the flash.

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Nov 30, 2016 17:34:17   #
jim quist Loc: Missouri
 
I use manual mode in the studio. Outside of the studio I use it about 85% of the time. I want to control depth of field and determine how frozen I want my subject to be. There is nothing wrong with any of the other modes, they are all there for a reason. Use which ever one gets you the proper exposure for your situation. I also shoot raw most of the time.
I set my lenses to auto focus for sports or other outdoor activities.
I set my lenses to manual focus when using a bellows or a macro lens. Manual focus is good for portraits too.

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Nov 30, 2016 18:07:15   #
Frank W Loc: Adirondacks in NY
 
bentrider wrote:
I've got a lot of questions, so here I go with my Post #2 on this Forum.

Which shooting mode do you use the most? I have a Nikon D7100. It features Programmed mode, Shutter mode, Aperture mode, and Manual. We don't even need to talk about Programmed, I think that's for beginners. I mainly use Aperture mode. But somewhere I read that to really learn photography, you should use Manual almost exclusively.

Of course, Shutter mode is the right one for certain situations, like freezing the action.

My D7100 also has a "Scenes" mode, but I also think that's for beginners or for situations where you don't have a lot of time.

What do you think?
I've got a lot of questions, so here I go with my ... (show quote)


Manual almost exclusively ......................
BULL, they give me the tools and I use them all.

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Nov 30, 2016 19:14:01   #
PAR4DCR Loc: A Sunny Place
 
Aperture when I need to control DOF. I try to keep ISO as low as possible for the shooting situation.
Shutter mode to freeze action.

Don

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Nov 30, 2016 19:30:08   #
JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore
 
PHRubin wrote:
I grew up with film back in the 70's. I used a 35-135 zoom lens most of the time. Concerned with shake, I used shutter speed priority. There was no auto ISO with film. When using flash I used manual, as that was the way to get the exposure right. I tend to do the same today. Old dog, old habits.


Unless the subject is difficult or some other special requirement exists, I almost always use Shutter Priority, Spot Focus, Auto WB & the ISO range limited to 100-400, and let the camera handle the f-stop function. Special need might be when wife , wants a shot of one of her flowers or plants potted near the house; then I use Aperture priority, most likely at 3.5 to blur the house siding.

If you buy a camera with all the neat functions we never had in the 'film days', why not use them?

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