Mr.Ft Loc: Central New Jersey

Hi, I'm new to macro photography. I'm using a canon 70D with a canon 100 mm 2.8L is lens, I have a light box on my christmas list. I'm looking at a macro (micro adjustment) bar/slide, I don't know much about these and was looking for a little guidance.

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

Kirk makes a high quality system you are looking for. It sells for around $249
Kirk SRS-7 Slide Rail System https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1086778-REG/kirk_srs_7_sliding_rail_system.html

A cheaper alternative is on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140mm-Focusing-Rail-Nodal-Slide-w-Panoramic-Head-for-Arca-Benro-Kirk-Markins-RRS-/172161639706?hash=item2815a2251a:g:5qQAAOSwgApXCGo6

WayneT Loc: Paris, TN

Rather than use a slide system you may want to consider a tethered or untethered system to control your focus. Something like Control Your Nikon or Control Your Canon software that I think works better than a rail system because it's hands off. Another possibility is this one that has worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GSIGERK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

BEFORE you start adding accessories like focus rail systems or tethered systems, you need to become well acquainted with your camera and macro lens, hand-held at 1:1 magnification.
You own an excellent camera and an excellent macro lens. I have a few questions:
1.) What type of macro-photography appeals to you? (field/insect, or flowers/fungi, or table-top tripod)
2.) Do you own a standard speedlight?
3.) Can you post a few of your recent macro-photographs? (NOT for critique, but to give us a point of reference about your macro experience).

rwilson1942 Loc: Houston, TX

I agree with Nikonian. I'm relatively new to macro photography (but not photography in general) and spent the last 5-6 months getting to know my macro lens and working out details of using a speedlight/diffuser combination for better lighting. I just added a focusing rail (slider) two weeks ago, mostly to help with focus stacking rather than general, insect macros.

Mr.Ft Loc: Central New Jersey

Thanks for the reply, I'm just getting into macro now,
1- I think I'm most into flowers and Hot Wheel cars.
2- Yes I have several speedlights.
3- I'm so new I don't have any photos yet. I just bought the lens a few days ago and as always work has been getting in the way of playing.

Thanks
Tom

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Sounds like the "Close Up" forum might be a better fit than the "True Macro" forum based on your intended subjects...

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

I would also concur with Nikonian's comments. Learning how to maximize the capabilities of your lens first will always help when you later explore focus stacking. If for example, you practice keeping the critical elements in your image on the same plane as your front lens element all of your later attempts will be better. An excellent tutorial with illustrations was presented by macro contributor Boszik (apologies if my spelling is not correct). If at all possible, I would locate this tutorial and implement the principles and techniques illustrated.

Bugfan Loc: Toronto, Canada

Earlier advice is valid, do master what you have before moving on. The more knobs and stuff you add to the camera assembly the more confusing it can get to set up and achieve focus. So if you already know the rest of your gear you simply have to spend your time figuring out how to use the plate.

Focus rails are incredibly useful when you're doing macro but they also have their issues.

One issue with them is rigidity, when you mount the plate on a tripod head, add a relativley large lens, perhaps some extension tubes and/or a bellows, and a fairly heavy DSLR you're going to find that the stack can jiggle particularly in the wind. In fact I hang a bag of rocks from my tripod to minimize that effect. When you shop for one handle it and try to wiggle its parts. If you feel the slightest movement that one is not the one you want.

Mounting a camera on the plate can take time so make sure you have a quick release plate so you can pop off the camera if there's another subject you want to do that doesn't need the set up.

Moving the plate forward and back can be a time consuming process. As a resut some makers have a release that allows you to move the plate quickly before once again locking it down. That can be the difference beteen getting the picture or missing it.

The plates can be had in two movements too. The regular is forward and back, the more expensive design is to also move left and right. That additional movement is handy if your subject isn't where you want it in the viewfinder. However the added layer of gears again risks getting camera shake. Personally I have the single movement type, it's a lot more rigid. I find most times it's easier to just rotate the camera a little to compose.

The knobs that adjust the plate have to also have a lock. Once you're achieved focus it's vital you lock everything down especially if the camera is not level, otherwise the assembly will move and bugger up your picture.

A possible issue you will encounter too is darkness. If you're using a short macro lens you could easily cast a shadow on your subject. One solution is a longer lens but that's expensive. A second solution is an off camera flash connected to the camera by a remote or a cable which allows you to hold the flash where you need it when you're ready. Yet another solution would be a ring flash. If you want to go on the cheap use a mirror on a light stand. That's what I often take into the bush and it works well.

Another issue you'll encounter early on is watching your camera fall down. The camera and plate assembly has to be positioned carefully on the tripod. You don't want it off balance. That seems like a dumb piece of advice but then it did happen to me and I've seen it happen to many others too. Usually we assume the assembly is in balance but in this case that's not as obvious. You may have started in balance but as you move the plate forward to achieve focus you could become very off balanced rather quicly. I always ensure that one tripod leg is under the lens of the camera that way no matter how far the camera extends, the assembly won't fall over.

Make sure you also have a remote release or use your self timer. You don't want to be touching the assembly when it comes time to openthe shutter.

Finally, when you do have a plate do not be discouraged, just practice until you have it figured out. It can be finnicky and frustrating but once it's mastered you'll set it up quickly and the images you get will be amazing.