eyebidder

I have a D7100 with the two SD card slots. I have heard that you could shoot color & bw together some way to get the same photo to be in color AND in bw! I have not figured out a way to do this. Is it in post production? If anyone knows more about this please let me know how to set the camera(if possible). Thank you in advance!

WayneT Loc: Paris, TN

Do it in post production but shoot RAW to get there. IMHO you should always shoot color in RAW then shift to B&W in PP, that way you can have both.

Mac Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.

I agree with what WayneT said.

Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA

eyebidder,

I cannot speak to your D7100 camera, so take this as a possibility with the advanced features of your camera.
Set the camera up to capture both RAW and .jpg.
Set the options for the .jpg file to B&W.

If this works you will have two images, one in full color in RAW, and a second in B&W .jpg.
You will have the RAW image for processing anyway you like for later use, and you will have a copy in jpg for B&W use.

Depending on the image editing software you have, you should be able to process the RAW file to B&W Film, using the same colored processing filters the great masters in the past used.
You cannot perform this filter treatment on a .jpg B&W image.
You will get much better results using the RAW image, converting to B&W Film and applying the colored filters to the full color image before the B&W conversion.

In short you will find overall better results processing the RAW image file and then saving the result to a .jpg file.
By processing the RAW and then saving as a .jpg file you will retain the original capture in RAW for later processing in other directions.

Whether you capture both RAW +jpg or RAW you will have an original sensor capture to process. If you capture both RAW +jpg you will have two image files to compare in quality; the RAW processed to a .jpg, and the camera's idea of how the image should be processed to .jpg.

The choice is yours,

Michael G

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

Nikon's B&W mode, when shooting RAW displays B&W on the LCD, but the image is captured in color. You have to switch to B&W in editing software.

Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA

This is what I have heard, but if the camera is set to RAW+jpg, then the output should be one RAW in fill color and a .jpg in B&W.
That should work for a trial basis.

Using the RAW and processing it in software as a B&W Film photo will end up with much more control and a better B&W image than what will come out of the camera as a B&W .jpg picture.

Michael G

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

It's called Selective Color, and you can do it in-camera.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=how+to+use+selective+color+in+nikon+d7100

Procedure
Rotate the mode dial to EFFECTS.
Rotate the command dial until Selective Color option appears in the monitor.
Press the Live View button. ...
Press OK to display selective color options.
Select a color. ...
Choose the color range. ...
Select additional colors. ...
Press OK to exit when settings are complete.

steinr98

The above answers mostly answer your question! However, IF you are a serious photographer you will not shoot any B&W in a B&W mode PERIOD! The reason you ask, is because if you shoot in color, you will have more information in the Raw File of Color, than you would get shooting Raw in B&W. A known fact - and as a photographer, you always want the most complete file (most pixels)one can get!! The only true way is to shoot in color, and if you want B&W do it in post processing!!

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

The menu settings for most digital cameras have a B&W or Monochrome mode. This affects ONLY the JPEG image. So if you want to see a B&W version of an image on site, you can set the camera to Monochrome or B&W mode (some cameras have several of these) and chimp the image on the LCD. If you save JPEG Large, Fine, plus raw files, you can choose to do anything you like with the raw file, later (process to color or B&W in Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture One Pro, etc.).

If you have one of the recent mirrorless cameras, you can do this better. Most of them have EVFs (electronic viewfinders). When you set the camera to a monochrome mode, you get a real-time view of it in the viewfinder, almost EXACTLY as it will appear in the final image. This enables you to make menu selections to fine-tune the image to your taste. And, of course, you can still save JPEG + raw at the same time, so you have the option of post-processing to color or a different/better B&W.

Still other cameras now have the ability to POST-PROCESS AN IMAGE FROM RAW TO JPEG IN THE CAMERA. While processing on an external computer provides much more freedom and more tools/better tools to do post-processing, doing it in-camera is great for those on tight deadlines who must deliver something for a client within minutes of recording it.

As usual, read the fine (camera) manual (RTFM) for more information.

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

Just wondering Jerry - do you actually use this function? Sounds like it would be easier just to convert the RAW file in PP! Also, if you want to do it one day, but not the next, you would have to go in and change the settings before taking pictures... I use my second card for when the first card gets full - camera automatically switches where it stores the photos. Hate to admit it, but sometimes I get lazy about re-formatting my card!

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Oh really? Is that why whole, multi-billion dollar portrait companies make tens of millions of portraits every year, EXCLUSIVELY in JPEG mode? Is that why they spend millions of dollars on proprietary hardware, software, systems, and training, to educate their people in how to do it?

Sorry to get my dander up... This is not a reply rant to steinr98, but to all the brainwashed 'disciples of raw nazis' who helped him think that way.

Raw is for rookies! It is actually much more difficult to capture JPEGs correctly at the camera than it is to record raw files.

Why??? By way of analogy, it's almost exactly like working with transparency film (slides) was, before about the year 2000 and the advent of feasible digital capture. Great slides were HARD to create, because you had to control EVERYTHING at the camera. They had almost no latitude (+1/3, –1/2 stop). A processed slide "is what it is..." That's whatever you DID at the camera.

Like working with raw capture today, using Negative films was easy. Some negative films had +3, –2 FULL stops of latitude!

Working *properly* with JPEG capture requires you to read every page of your camera manual until you UNDERSTAND each and every menu selection there... to do a lot of scientific testing to find what works FOR YOU... to understand how to manipulate light to stay within the dynamic range of what you can actually print on paper... and more.

If you don't understand those things, or aren't willing to do so, well then, you can use raw, "point and shoot", and "fix it in post." You would be just like pros using color negative film in the 1960s through 2005. Their labs fixed everything for them. Now, of course, YOU are the lab, even if you USE a lab for prints!

Now before you get your panties in a twist, note that I would never advocate using JPEG for everything. Like anything else, it is JUST a tool. It is there for many very valid reasons, just as raw mode is there for times when you want and need the absolute maximum from your sensor. Outside of the portrait industry, many of us prefer to work in raw for certain types of subject matter, and default to JPEG for others. We consider BOTH sets of workflow to be important tools in the camera bag!

Factors in favor of JPEG are:

The time, bandwidth, storage, and processing power required for extremely high volume production
The need to minimize post-processing labor costs
The ability to control and lock down lighting for hundreds of images at a time
The need to meet deadlines for publication
The need for on-site printing of event photos, identification cards, passport photos, etc.
The need to work in burst mode for extended or fastest-possible action capture. (Fill up the buffer...)
The need to EXACTLY match video content captured on the same camera, to be used in a hybrid creation (stills plus video, with audio, graphics, music, text... deployed on the web).

Factors in favor of raw capture are:

The need to record very special events where lighting cannot be controlled or predicted sufficiently in advance
The need to capture the widest possible dynamic range available *without* supplementary lighting
The need to make the very best prints possible with available technology
The need to serve the very highest end of the market with very large prints
The need to satisfy demanding art directors
The need to compensate for lack of time, will, knowledge, and talent to achieve perfection at the camera (when, if you had all those, you might do so)
The need to record images with lots of latitude for post-processing, for whatever reasons

I would use JPEG capture for school portraits, institutional portraits, parts catalog item photography...
I would use raw capture for weddings, landscapes, fast sports or nature action in changing light, celebrity portraits...

Sorry, but whenever I see evidence of FROzen minded photographers, I have to rant. Use the right tool for the job!

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Keep in mind though, when shooting jpg in B&W, the file will have "baked" in those choices. You are letting the camera choose how the image will look, but the raw file can be processed any way you like.

cambriaman Loc: Central CA Coast

And agree with you as well!

bweber Loc: Newton, MA

I agree with everything your wrote. I shoot one card RAW and the other JPEG with my preferred capture settings. I like the flexibility of RAW images for tricky sunset and early morning lighting and B & W conversions. But I also like to simply load a JPEG card onto my computer and post it or send it away without having to even open my post processing software (Capture One pro 9).

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Years ago, I got a little Canon SD800 (I think), and it had that feature. It was very easy to set up, and I used it a few times. Whatever color I select from the LCD screen will be reproduced, with the rest of the scene remaining B&W. If I can find one (not on this computer) I'll post it. I didn't realize that DSLRs had that feature. Adding selective color to a shot that was converted to B&W sounds like a challenge.

I'm not sure if those color setting remains after the camera has been turned off. It's been years since I used that feature.