AndyT wrote:
Have done photography for many years, not a lot with flash. Shot this "First bath at home" shot with a Nikon SB-800 set on manual and 1/2 power pointed into an umbrella. One pocket wizard on the flash, the second on my D7100. Camera mode was manual. So far so good. Iso was set to 800(???), the lens opening to f/22, and now the part I don't understand...Exif data shows my shutter speed was 1/350th of a second. Maximum shutter speed sync on the D7100 is 1/250th of a second. Why did the photo turn out? Is it because the flash is set as a remote?
Have done photography for many years, not a lot wi... (
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jcboy3 wrote:
Using a radio trigger and setting the flash to remote and manual, the camera will ignore the flash sync speed and expose regardless of the shutter speed....
That's possible... but it depends upon the radio triggering device. Some radio triggers simply trip the flash, so are fully manual. Others provide the same communication and full automation as if the flash were sitting in the hot shoe or attached via an off-camera shoe cord. I don't use them, but I thought most PocketWizards were the latter type.
It's possible the flash and camera are capable of "High Speed Sync".... That's a special mode where the two work together to allow shutter speeds faster than the max sync speed.
HOWEVER high speed sync greatly limits the distance the flash can reach... the higher the shutter speed above the camera's flash sync, the less distance the flash will be able to reach. You compounded the "problem" in several other ways.... 1. By setting the flash to half power... why? 2. By bouncing the flash out of an umbrella (which forces light to travel much farther and wastes a TON of light, although it may be worthwhile because the light from an umbrella can be very nice)... And, 3. by using WAY too small a lens aperture. No need for f22. I'd have used f8, maybe f11 max. In fact, on an APS-C camera such as yours f16 and f22 will cause "diffraction" that will rob fine detail from your images. Better to use a less extreme, small aperture, if at all possible.
You "got away with these mistakes" here (image looks nice) because the subjects are relatively close. You could have gotten the exact same exposure with lower ISO, slower shutter speed (1/250 or slower) by leaving the flash set to full power and using a 2 or 3 stop larger aperture. Since you are bouncing the light out of an umbrella anyway, which greatly modifies the light to be less harsh, there's little reason to reduce flash power.
As someone whose "done photography for years, not a lot with flash" you may or may not be aware: Modern flash and camera together may or may not actually be "manual", even when set that way. I am not that familiar with the Nikon flash system (I shoot with Canon gear).... but with some settings the flash acts to give an auto exposure, even if the camera is set to fully manual... and vice versa. Study and experiment with your flash and camera combo. Flash has never been easier, once you know what it's going to do in different situations.
If you had set 1/250 shutter speed, but got 1/350 instead... the camera must have had some sort of automation working. It was either actually in aperture priority mode or you have some sort of auto override enabled, where the camera tries to "correct" your "mistakes".