Bud S Loc: Logan Ohio

I use the 16-35 f4 and love it on my D750, using filters is a must for me (nd)

Bud S Loc: Logan Ohio

I use the 16-35 f4, have the 24-120 f4 and the 28-300 all nikon, the 16-35 has threads for filters and is a great ultra wide. for wildlife I have the D7100 with a Sigma 500 and can use the 28 -300 on it also. I got into full frame reasonably "cheap" with my D750 going this route.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

I would agree with the 14-24 except you can't use a filter other than buying a filter frame etc...and the front optic is so vulnerable.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

I usually don't shoot landscape with my DSLR. However, if pressed into service, either my 20mm or my 28~300mm. If I had to pick one of those, the 28~300 would be it.
--Bob

DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX

You won't go wrong with the D810. 14-24 f/2.8, 24-70 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8.

ephraim Imperio

Yes you can use filters with the 14-24 lens. I use either of the following:

Lee SW filter holder for 14-24 or
FotodioX Wonder Pana 145 core Unit for Nikon 14-24 with 145 circular polarizer

effie

John Howard Loc: SW Florida and Blue Ridge Mountains of NC.

Robeng
I looked at your site and it looks good. Wondering why you chose Smugmug over others. I have a Flickr site that is getting old and want to replace it with my own website. Will use this as a chance too upgrade some of the shots and PP.

raferrelljr Loc: CHARLOTTE, NC

The one I would suggest is the 16-35. That's what I will get for my D800.

Steve Perry Loc: Sylvania, Ohio

The vast majority of my landscapes are shot with the 14-24 or the 24-70. Both are fantastic optics and give you a ton of versatility.

Most of these are with one of those two lenses:
http://www.backcountrygallery.com/subjects/landscape/

Bazbo Loc: Lisboa, Portugal

I know you asked about Nikon, but you should consider a Zeiss 18mm, especially if you are going to pair the lens with the 810.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I do a fair amount of landscape work. My go to lenses are the 45mm PC-E and the 85mm PC-E. I also use a 24 PC-E with less frequency, and the 14-24 F2.8 with even less frequency.The reason for the PC-E choice are many.

1. They are sharp, even wide open, from corner to corner - due to the huge image circle projected onto the image sensor.
2. Tilt gives you unprecedented depth of field control. Shallow is very easy without resorting to resorting to a wide aperture. Deep is also easy, without resorting to tiny, sharpness-stealing apertures. Lenses have great depth of field at F22, but particularly on the D810, anything smaller than F11 invites diffraction limited sharpness. It's really bad at F22.
3. Shift gives you several great benefits. You can raise or lower the lens to get a higher/lowerperspective without tilting the camera - introducing keystoning. You can shift the lens left or right to similarly limit keystoning, or to "get around" distracting foreground elements in your composition. When using a wide or ultrawide lens, if you keep the camera level to minimize keystoning, you get the horizon in the middle, requiring that you either crop the bottom or the top of the image for a better composition, or tilting the camera up and correcting in post processing, which further diminishes image quality and image size. Last, but not least - it is very easy to take a panorama, simply by shifting the lens from left to center to right and taking an image at each position.

The disadvantage, if you could call it that, is that these are manual focus only lenses. I don't find it an issue, since I spend a little time getting the composition I want. The image quality and convenient flexibilty pretty much compensates for any disadvantage.

I also use an 85 PC-E, and an 80-200 F2.8 for longer distance landscapes and panoramas.

I find the wide angle perspective distortion excessive with anything wider than 24 mm on a full frame camera. The perspective distortion I am referring to is not the keystoning, but the representation of nearby objects larger than they are, and distant objects smaller and further away than they are, and what happens to shapes of elements in the scene that are at the edges and corners, also known as volume deformation or volume anamorphosis - which is very difficult to correct in post processing.

You can see some of my stuff here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gene_lugo/

ebbote Loc: Hockley, Texas

Welcome to the Forum Doc.

WayneT Loc: Paris, TN

I use a Tokina 11-20mm f/2.8 DX on my d7200 and really like what I can achieve with it without breaking the bank.

wj cody Loc: springfield illinois

i would not use anything but the nikon 20mm f2.8 for serious landscape work. especially given your body preference. it will exceed performance at all given apertures over any zoom lens out there.

now, that is if you are deadly serious with your landscape work. if it's just for fun, go ahead and pick a zoom lens.