For more complete info about sensor cleaning, go to
www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com and read every page thoroughly. It will help you decide.
That website is maintained by a couple highly experienced, professional repair techs (one of whom has literally written a lot of the books on camera repair). They also own Micro-Tools.com, which is one of the top sources for tools and supplies for camera repair and sell most of the sensor cleaning devices, so really aren't biased toward one or another. Most of the sensor cleaning kits you'll find on Amazon.com are actually from Micro-Tools, often assembled from various sources.
It's an investment to set yourself up to do your own sensor cleaning. As you'll see reading the above website, it isn't as easy as "buy this thing and use it". It's actually a process that requires several steps be done right utilizing different tools:
1. Wet cleaning (such as with Pec Swabs and Eclipse fluid) is nearly always a necessary first step because a sensor that's never been cleaned before almost always has oil spots on it (probably from the shutter mechanisms). It's also sometimes the best way to remove more adhered particles and will be required with any oil spots in future cleanings.
2. Adhesive cleaning ("dry", such as Dust Aid) works well capturing and removing more lightly adhered or loose particles, but will only smear any oils on the sensor.
3. Sensor brushes ("dry", such as Arctic Butterfly) also can work well with less adhered particles, but the sensor
must be oil free or the brush will be contaminated and ruined.
4. Precision tools (such as Speck Grabber) are helpful with individual specks. A lighted, magnifying glass or loupe will likely be needed to see what you're doing.
5. Finally, once the sensor has been cleared of all particles and oils, a Sensor Pen should be used to remove the slight haze that's usually left by cleaning fluids and very gently polish the surface so it will be more resistant to dust adhering in the future. This really helps the sensor stay clean longer... especially in cameras with self-cleaning sensors and fluorine coatings.
In between each of the cleaning steps, a gentle puff of air from a squeeze bulb (such as a Rocket Blower) and/or careful, very low-power vacuuming should be used to coax loose dust particles out of the camera, to prevent them from re-settling onto the sensor. A lot of pros use a foot-operated blower or a very small compressor that's highly filtered to insure no moisture or oil in the air supply, which is kept to a very low power to avoid damaging things inside the camera. Finally it should be closely inspected and tested, might need to repeat some of the above, if it's not yet as clean as you'd like.
So, there really is no single "best way" to clean a sensor. It's a process that involves a series of steps and different tools, which can vary a little bit depending upon what's on the sensor. It will cost you roughly $100 to get set up with a minimum cleaning kit, and some more in the future for consumables such as swabs and fluids. Alternatively, a professional cleaning might cost $25 to $50.
A couple "don'ts":
"Canned air" generally
should not be used. It's too strong and the propellant can make it cold or even spritz out staining the sensor (actually, it's a filter over the sensor in all cases, protecting it from direct contact).
And, common "cotton swabs" (i.e., "Q-Tips") must
never be used inside cameras. They shed tiny cotton fibers, which will only add to the problem... But, even worse, can get into and jam up fine mirror and shutter mechansims, resulting in an expensive repairs.
I also recommend
not trying to clean the camera's mirror or focus screen yourself, with anything more than a gentle puff of air from a bulb blower. Any specks on them cannot and will not appear in images, are just a minor nuisance. (The mirror flips up and covers the focus screen, sealing off any light
or dust on them, before the shutter even opens to reveal the sensor.) Both the mirror and the focus screen are relatively delicate and easily damaged. Most focus screens are high precision, optical plastic. And most mirrors are front-surfaced with vaporized aluminum. Replacing a damaged focus screen isn't a huge deal in some cameras, but a mirror replacement can be pretty costly in most cases. So, don't touch the mirror or focus screen. If you eventually feel they need cleaning, I recommend to have it done by a pro instead.
Note: The "Copperhill Method" was good. They originally just offered a wet cleaning kit, eventually added some items for the other steps above. But they now appears to be out of business, the website is gone. The original Copperhill kit was assembled with Eclipse fluid, Pec Pads to be cut to size and folded over a plastic tool to form a swab... relatively low-cost per swab (which you use once, then toss). All these things are still available. Micro-Tools and others sell them. There are also ready-made swabs from Pec and others, though they cost quite a bit more. There are even pre-moistened swabs, still more expensive but might be handy to have for emergencies in the field.
Copperhill eventually offered some of the other items, but their original was (In an emergency I've used a clean, new micro-fiber lens cleaning cloth, folded over a wooden coffee stir -stick from Starbucks ,and slightly moistened with lens cleaning fluid... That did the trick!)