Unhappy with photos from Alaska Cruise (Page 6): I think you did excellent with one hand! You should really look into M4/3 cameras/lenses. You will get 5 axis image stabilization, and...

tdekany Loc: Oregon

I think you did excellent with one hand! You should really look into M4/3 cameras/lenses. You will get 5 axis image stabilization, and more importantly smaller bodies and smaller lenses that are much easier to control with one hand.

jimmya Loc: Phoenix

Bobb42 wrote:

Just returned from a Cruise to Alaska. The trip was very nice but I am not happy with the pictures. The camera is a Canon T3i using mostly a Canon 55-250 lens. Most shots were in Program mode using IS. Speeds seemed to be fast enough for the focal length used but they were just not sharp. Most of the shots showed an f 7.1. Other than taking another Cruise (not likely) what might have I done differently?

One problem that may be happening is camera movement. Depending on the shutter speed often times when the camera moves even slightly, you'll get what appears to be out of focus shots when it's actually camera movement. I remember when I first got my t3i and I wanted to take a flash shot on program my photos were always out of focus. But it was camera movement because the camera selected
1/60th for the shot. In this particular instance I've put settings into my full manual of 1/200 (sync speed) and f/5.3. Now my flash shots are crisp and clear because when I walk into a flash situation I simply spin to full manual, pop the flash and I have much better results. This is only to illustrate having enough shutter speed. Best of luck.

mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey

tdekany wrote:

I think you did excellent with one hand! You should really look into M4/3 cameras/lenses. You will get 5 axis image stabilization, and more importantly smaller bodies and smaller lenses that are much easier to control with one hand.

Certainly, smaller and lighter mirrorless cameras and lenses would improve his situation and make one-handed use of a camera much more viable. The extra stabilization wouldn't hurt, but he also probably would have gotten somewhat better results, with regard to sharpness, with a faster shutter speed..

tdekany Loc: Oregon

mwsilvers wrote:

Certainly, smaller and lighter mirrorless cameras and lenses would improve his situation and make one-handed use of a camera much more viable. The extra stabilization wouldn't hurt, but he also probably would have gotten somewhat better results, with regard to sharpness, with a faster shutter speed..

Yes you are 100% correct. However you hold a DSLR all day with one hand vs an em10 mark 2 for example.

Mark7829 Loc: Calfornia

jamesl wrote:

I believe the T3i has a 1.6 crop factor that you need to allow for too. At 250mm the adjusted shutter speed should be at least 1/400 sec.

That's wives tale. Cite any known and reputable source that says that.... And if you can, state the scientific reason why you should do that based upon a crop sensor camera ...

hpucker99 Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

twowindsbear wrote:

How many of your photos were shot through the ship's windows & how many were shot on deck?

Can you compare the photos between shot through windows to those shot outside? Do all the photos seem slightly out of focus or mostly the ones shot inside?

Trane Loc: Connecticut

Question, I'm not trying to be whimsical do you equate faster shutter speeds to increase sharpness? Would you say the same thing for a still image on a tripod. Thanks

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

Mark7829 wrote:

jamesl wrote:

I believe the T3i has a 1.6 crop factor that you need to allow for too. At 250mm the adjusted shutter speed should be at least 1/400 sec.

That's wives tale. Cite any known and reputable source that says that.... And if you can, state the scientific reason why you should do that based upon a crop sensor camera ...

Any "known and reputable source" will confirm what he said. It's fairly simple physics.

https://photographylife.com/what-is-reciprocal-rule-in-photography
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/sharp-image-shutter-speed-formula.aspx
http://tapcamera.com/category/tutorials/page/3/

The general guideline is that for a 35mm format an average person can hold a camera steady enough if the shutter speed is 1/focal_length. But the T3i is not a 35mm format, it has a 1.6 crop factor, which makes the effective focal length 1.6x longer than it is. With a 250mm lens the effect is the same as a 1.6 * 250 = 400.

But that is just a guideline for a person with two relatively steady hands standing on stable ground. The OP in this case does not have two hands and is standing on a boat deck. Probably that magnifies the problem by at least 2 or 3 times, and hence everyone that understands the entire problem has been suggesting perhaps at least a 1/1000 shutter speed at a minimum.

Trane Loc: Connecticut

I was referring to all other factors on normal stance, would a faster shutter enhance sharpness. I know about the reciprocity rule, etc.

I was under the impression, repeat impression, that it was lens quality that produced sharpness.

We may be addressing two different issues.

Meganephron Loc: Fort Worth, TX

Haven't read all the posts but if you are limited by using one hand, you may do better with a remote release if you can use your weak hand or try a monopod with a remote release. It would be very difficult to hold a camera still one handed particularly on a moving vessel

Photocraig

A random thought is that on an engine driven boat/ship, the vibrations by the engineS transmitted throughout the ship. The circle shaped ripples in a water glass or coffee cup are the indications. They are at a much higher frequency than the through the water and rocking motion we associate with being on board a boat or ship. This effect is magnified by bracing the camera or yourself against a railing or Bulkhead. My limited shipboard experience but extensive sailing experience is that 1/1000 sec and higher tends to tame the vibrations if an engine is firing. And as long as there are lights, A/C and or heat going on, there is at least one engine turning, always. The main propulsion engines are the big boys and they'll transmit vibrations increasingly as the RPM's speed up. I don't know if image stabilization can keep up. I'd like to hear others' thoughts.

cfmillette Loc: Hattiesburg, MS

An interesting thread, combining a variety of pertinent issues.

Myself, an amateur photographer; I took essentially the same cruise in the summer of 2014 using also a brand new to me T3i and usually the 55-250 kit lens. Had practiced for about three weeks before sailing. I took lots of shots from the ship, when both moving and stationary. Tried NOT to shoot through windows. Most of them turned out pretty well, with sharpness not a problem (at least for my level of expertise - not trying for poster blow-ups here). Most often used Av, with a few Auto or Manual shots. Usually ended up with shutter speeds at 640 or faster. Lens did have a CP filter (good quality) attached.

Bullfrog Bill Loc: CT

Read the manual, a book, take a lesson or watch a UTube video about how a camera works. If you want to take good photos, you have to take it off automatic and understand the relationship between focal length, shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Your camera's meter wants to make pure black and pure white look neutral gray. I doubt that is what you are looking for. You need to learn to control the tool. Join a camera club, take a lesson or even study, otherwise, be happy with mediocre photos.

Flyerace Loc: Mt Pleasant, WI

It looks like the second photo was shot through a window. There is reflection on the left side of the photo.

tdekany Loc: Oregon

Bullfrog Bill wrote:

Read the manual, a book, take a lesson or watch a UTube video about how a camera works. If you want to take good photos, you have to take it off automatic and understand the relationship between focal length, shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Your camera's meter wants to make pure black and pure white look neutral gray. I doubt that is what you are looking for. You need to learn to control the tool. Join a camera club, take a lesson or even study, otherwise, be happy with mediocre photos.

How about you read the whole thread first. The OP can only use one arm. See if you can do better.